TB and HG photo timeline.

[Diagram14]

Being that Im doing this for the first time I am going to be taking a million refernce pictures anyway I might as well set up a photo timeline. I figured its a two way street putting them up on a thread, posting my finds as I go for any future body's reference and for the more seasoned Runners to point out anything abnormal along the way.

For those of you who dont look under the hood often. This is just my initial reference photo.

She is getting naked and Im going to show everyone. Day one progress: Radiator, Belts, Intake Plenum, Coils and wires. (not a whole day, more like an hour and a half)

Closer-up of the TB area. I assume the red on the timing marks means someone did a TB job previously...?


I appreciate all the feed back. I look forward to this journey with you.

 

[quicksilvr]

YES!

I'm so glad someone is doing this. I'm going to eventually do my HG's myself as well....always love a good picture documentation. Good luck, and take lots of pics. :thumb3:

 

[49Runner]

Please click one of the Quick Reply icons in the posts above to activate Quick Reply.

I took pics through the entire tear down and build up as well... Just didn't want to take the time to post all the pics.

Let me know if you need any pics. or have questions.

 

[THEREALTOR1]

Please click one of the Quick Reply icons in the posts above to activate Quick Reply.

I took pics through the entire tear down and build up as well... Just didn't want to take the time to post all the pics.

Let me know if you need any pics. or have questions.

Do you have a pic of the location of the adjustment bolt on the PS pump? I hear you have to pull the AF box to really get a good look at it, was just curious if you did or not.

 

[kball]

An hour and a half? I think you need to slow down and take more pics! :hungry:

 

[49Runner]

Do you have a pic of the location of the adjustment bolt on the PS pump? I hear you have to pull the AF box to really get a good look at it, was just curious if you did or not.

Yeah, pull the box the you can get to the necessary bolts. Once the box is out of the way you can get to the bolt

 

[Diagram14]

The PS pump adjustment bolt sits behind the pulley's 7-7:30. It is a 14mm and all I did was reach in with an open-end wrench from the front of the pulley to break it loose then I was able to back it off by hand. Im using the AF box as a hanger for my now removed PS pump.

 

[Diagram14]

I am in need of more leverage than the 2' breaker bar I have to get the crank bolt broken loose so I've been occupying my self pulling off other stuff. Lighting has been pretty bad in the garage so on a tool run I picked up a little piece of sun for $40...and its awesome...

Two nuts and a bolt and the fan bracket slides right off.

I took the alternator off from the hinge, I figure the bracket (if it needs to come off) will be easier to get off when the heads are off.

PS pump done the same way as the alternator except Ive got it zip tied to the AF box instead of complete removal.

Fuel rails came off super easy. The only issue is three of those orange caps for the injectors stuck in the manifold. Im not too worried about it though, Im sure I can just push them out when the manifold comes off. I sure dont want to try and needle-nose them out now and risk breaking them...

As the top side sits currently. Things are magical when the wiring harness is mostly unplugged and super moveable. More to come soon...

 

[Nelsonmd]

I'm loving this...

BTW, if you break those little plastic pieces, it looks like they aren't too expensive

Injector Insulator - $5.16
O-Ring - $2.16

 

[Diagram14]

After an 8 hour Friday blitz I got the heads off. What follows is the documentation I took time for...

First thing was to get to that tensioner so I could get the TB off...

A shot of the AC mounting bracket as you see it in your truck. The condenser mounts to this with 4 bolts and the bracket in turn mounts with 4 bolts to the block.

View of that bracket from the condenser side.

After the TB came off I pulled the cam sprockets. Using a large adjustable wrench on the cam shaft and the appropriate socket on the sprocket I was able to break the bolt loose a wrench in each hand thus avoiding any damage to gasket surfaces. I was able to pull the cam sprockets off by hand, no pully needed.

Next out was the intake manifold...nothing too exciting, just unbolt and yank.

Right bank (passenger side) without the cam shafts. Part of removal is bolting the two gears on the exhaust cam together(Im drawing a blank on names here and and I dont have my book). My purpose in mentioning this is that I just used two of the small bolts from the TB backing plate, seen a couple pictures up, to serve as the "set screw" and it worked perfectly.

Right side head off, first look at the piston and cylinder condition. There seems to be some evidence of this side's HG being compromised in the bottom left corner...any thoughts?

A better look at that corner.

Left (driver) side head removed, HG still on. You can see on the right side of the picture where the Stop Leak was working...tons of build-up.

A closer look at that...

And my parts storage. You can see I was able to get the heads out without first pulling the exhaust manifolds. It was necessary to have someone pushing the opposite direction and the duct-work for that to be possible.

Now I have a years worth of parts to clean before me HG kit gets in early next week. I'd take pictures but Im sure you all know what putty knives and steelwool look like.

 

[muddertrucker99]

Man you got a good start on the HG change out. You getting the heads checked and redone? If so you will increase your compression on the top end and the bottom will be worn out. With that being said you might start getting blow by. Which will make you start using oil. I'm not sure on this but that is what i was told when i started getting valve rattle.

 

[Diagram14]

Ive been suspecting some bad valve stem seals in association with oil collection in my intake plenum. So I intend on getting the heads pressure tested for that and decide from there what to do. I cant imagine that corrected compression top-side would rapidly compromise the the bottom. Not going to lie though, I could stand a quieter valvetrain.

 

[49Runner]

Those are the old style gaskets (like what were on mine), you replacing them with layered metal?

How many miles on the engine? I had 191k when mine went... I threw a set of lower milage heads on, way quieter.

 

[Diagram14]

Yeah those old gaskets are nasty, Ive got all sorts of graphite stuck to the top of my block. I did go with your suggestion of ordering straight from Toyota. Got them for $35 each from Toyotapartsales.com. They came in today and are substanially different from the ones I pulled off. Im at 175k-ish. When I have another chance to look at it Im going to give the cylinder walls a good inspection to make sure I dont need to just yank the whole thing and get it machined and honed...theres not much left to do to take it all the way.

 

[49Runner]

Good price on gaskets.

The block is iron so get some brake cleaner a good gasket scraper and some scotch bright pads and go to town.

For your heads bolts your cams back in, flip the heads over and do the same thing (more carefully).

If you do decide to take your heads in to get hot tanked and machined make sure you keep track of where the buckets go.

I was able to get my used heads with 1/2 the miles for less then having my old heads rebuilt. That may be an option for you.

 

[Diagram14]

Buckets = Lifters? If so, those are already out and organized in the back of the truck...you can see them in the photo above. Unless, of course, the machinist will need them in a rebuild. Im not dead set on anything besides getting stuff tested for function. My goal honestly is to not make this a bigger job than I can handle, but at the same time I find myself not trusting any of the maintainance work done by previous owners. Heh. Ill be swinging by a shop in the morning before work.

 

[Nelsonmd]

Any updates?

 

[Diagram14]

Im on hold for the time being. I took my heads in to a machinist to get cleaned and replace the valve stem seals and I haven't gotten a call back. This is both good and bad, good because he was to call me with anything major concerning the work being done on them, bad because I cant put my truck back together. I am also ordering a thread restorer kit to chase some of the more important threaded areas so that might add a couple more days of waiting on shipping. For the time being I am just cleaning a seemingly endless stash of dirty parts in antisipation of reassembly.

I have run into something interesting but haven't traced it out myself. There is what looks like the male end of a vacuum hose fitting attached to the block just above the AC compressor and just below where the passenger side head mounts. You can kind of see it in a couple of my already posted pictures but I dont have a direct shot of it. Anyone with ideas chime in. I'll get a picture and trace it myself later and post some findings, Im just always open to short-cuts. It is probably a drain of sorts.

 

[Diagram14]

Getting it back together....slowly...

Punched holes in a cardboard box and marked for reassembly. The banks are actually rotated opposite of eachother 180 degress, I just used the location of the 8mm hex key bolt as a reference point.

Some clean looking heads...

There are unique numbers punched into the heads you can use for reassembly reference. Here is one stamped in the gulley (right-side-ish).

...And one in a port for the intake manifold.

Heads and intake manifold back on. Just follow torque proceedures in your manual. There is quite the contrast from what it was.

I prepped for the camshafts by applying assemly lube to the bearing races (both top and bottom) and poured some clean motor oil in what I call the valve pools.

These are the timing marks you are to line up when you install your cam shafts. The only problem is they are on the back side of the drive gears so unless you have a mirror you'll get to squeeze your head back there to try and see with a flashlight.

And from a distance. Dont ask why... Side note: the cam gear timing marks are a double dot as seen in the picture on the passenger side and single dot on the drivers side.

I decided to clean my radiator drain bucket and tried to take a picture of what "stop leak" does to your coolant. The picture doesnt show it real well but it reminded me of diaper polimers and water in a middle school science experiment. And no the oil in the bucket did not come from my radiator.

Until more pictures...

 

[kball]

Nice! :snacker:

Those are some clean heads!