TB and HG photo timeline.

Awesome job. Great timing on this too. I might be doing this real soon. kinda over heated my truck yesterday.....the Efan accidently was manually off and i was parked at a gas station waiting for my friend when he said there was stuff coming out of your hood....scan gauge said 265.....*hopefully* she will be ok. drove ~80 miles right after that and all was good. gonna keep an eye on it for a few weeks.
 
The head cleaning was part of the Machinist's service, it wasn't a hot-tanking but cant remember what it actually was. I took them in to get the stem seals replaced. I decided to do that because in the first couple weeks of my ownership I was getting the large occasional puff of black smoke at start-up. I started using Castrol High Milage and Im sure it reconditioned the seals enough to stop that. It was a "while Im in that far" sort of thing.
 
Remove intake manifold nut

I'm doing my HG also but I'm having problem removing the intake manifold where the 3 nut is on the driver side. The one that I'm having issue is the bottom one I don't have any lavage, how did you remove your and what tools did you use.
 
I dont recall having any issues with the nuts or bolts on the intake manifold. The stuff closer to the firewall I used a 6" extension on my ratchet to clear anything that would impede leverage and loosening. A six sided socket is advised to help prevent the nuts and bolts from rounding off. The torque specification for the intake manifold is not very much so they should come off fairly easy, if you suspect that this one might be stuck then you could treat with penetrating oil to see if that helps (PB Blaster, or Kroil).
 
I'll let you know if I can removed the bottom nut, right now I got the passenger side off.
I also got the two top nuts off from the driver side. This is going to be a challenge for me because this is my first time and I'm not a mechanic. I just did a lot of research and reading online. I'm doing my timing belt,water pump, radiator also. Thank you for the great picture.


I dont recall having any issues with the nuts or bolts on the intake manifold. The stuff closer to the firewall I used a 6" extension on my ratchet to clear anything that would impede leverage and loosening. A six sided socket is advised to help prevent the nuts and bolts from rounding off. The torque specification for the intake manifold is not very much so they should come off fairly easy, if you suspect that this one might be stuck then you could treat with penetrating oil to see if that helps (PB Blaster, or Kroil).
 
Diagram14

Pulleys and idlers installed, ready for the TB.

Diagram14

Crank sprocket, this thing has two marks on it. One at 12 o'clock (red dot) for timing reference on the housing and one 90 degrees to the right on the front face for TB alignment.

Diagram14

Right (passenger) cam pulley with all the marks for alignment and timing.

Diagram14

Left (driver) cam pulley with respective timing marks aligned.

Diagram14

Crank sprocket and TB marked and aligned.

Diagram14

GRENADE!!! Pulling the pin on the new hydraulic tensioner.

Diagram14

TB fully installed, reassembly of the rest of the boring stuff is reverse order of how you took it off.

Hang-ups aside this was more of a time consuming job rather than a difficult job. Creating this timeline helped to keep me organized in completing the job. If you are only doing a timing belt job it is all very straight forward job, the proper components will facilitate the work. The person who did the previous work in my 4Runner used cheaper parts and it was very clear once I was in there that they were the reason for failure. I finished the job last night and so far it seems to be holding water. Glad to have my truck back and understand more about it.
 
Diagram14
thanks for the great photos can you post some photos from installing the
AC belt, ALT belt and PS belt. I forgot to take some photo of mine when I removed those belt. I'm lost as I forgot which belt run to which pulley.
 
I didnt take any pictures of those unfortunately. As far as which belt goes where, there is a number stamped on the side of each belt. I just referenced that number with the parts list I got with my TB kit and it told me which was which. If your belts arent new and you dont have such a list maybe you can pull the respective numbers and brands to find their matches on the internet. Or just pick up some new ones, they are not expensive and it is good maintenance. As far as order goes I believe alt goes first and spans three pulleys: ALT, fan, and crank. AC goes second and only goes around the crank and AC pulleys. PS is last and wraps three pulleys as well: PS, fan, and crank.
 
Timing belt/chain

I have the 3RZ-FE 2.7 liter. What is the likelihood of a chain over a belt? I was told a timing chain lasts longer. My '97 4runner 2.7 liter has 186K miles. I bought it with 166k miles and don't know the maintenance before this time period.
 
I have the 3RZ-FE 2.7 liter. What is the likelihood of a chain over a belt? I was told a timing chain lasts longer. My '97 4runner 2.7 liter has 186K miles. I bought it with 166k miles and don't know the maintenance before this time period.

2.7l-chain 3.4l-belt. Sorry for the hi jack!
 
I'm considering possibly having to do the gasket.

It looks like a person would be wise to do the injector o-rings and measure the valve clearances. Need head bolts? A few exhaust studs? Nuts? I need to make a shopping list.
 
Why is this not stickied?? Took 15 mins to find this!

And you never said what your total cost was

I think this would need to be edited by BigFishAllDay to even be considered for sticky status, there might be a maintence folder it could get dumped into.

As for cost the best I can do is get you ballpark from memory,
Timing Belt kit from ebay: $280ish
Machine work for heads: $260ish
Head gaskets (2): $80
Intaked Gaskets: Maybe $20
Toyota Red Coolant: More than it should be
Oil Change: $35ish when I can get my preferred material on sale.
Time: Lots of it, but Im slow

It looks like a person would be wise to do the injector o-rings and measure the valve clearances. Need head bolts? A few exhaust studs? Nuts? I need to make a shopping list.

Some recommend new head bolts others say its not necessary, there are always a best and worst case scenarios. As far as those other small items go I would just wait until youre completely apart rather than break out the ESP skills and guess what youre going to need. Spares are nice but if you do this job right you should never need to get back in.
Measuring your valve clearances before you take everything apart isnt going to do you much good, especially if youre going to have the heads machined. That is something that can only be finalized when everything is back together.
 
So true. Does the OEM headgasket overhang the block a lot? It just occurred to me that this one might have been replaced already. It is seeping a little bit to the outside. Maybe/possibly they didn't do the right torque or used too cheap of a gasket. I know it is a long shot but I don't want to make a bunch of extra work for myself if I don't have to.
 

Members online

No members online now.

Forum statistics

Threads
278,316
Messages
3,554,120
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top