TB change ahead – need a new torque wrench — any recommendations?

[StreetCreeper]

I'm thinking I'll be doing my timing belt myself this summer so it's time to up my torque wrench game to a 250lb one. I'll probably limit my budget to $150 or so for this.

Any suggestions on brand or style would be appreciated as I've nowhere to go but up in quality since all three of my current torque wrenches are HF cheapies.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

I bought the longer Husky 1/2 " torque wrench from home depot. The extra length comes in handy on big hub nuts and crank bolts.

My 3/8" one stopped klicking at any setting so I need a new one. I'm looking at the AC delco digital one


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[Roamed YT]

All hail the highway robber!
Snap-On Techwrench 12.5-250lb

But if you want to save some cash for other things... then I'd go with something like a Husky. I have a similar version of this and works fine for what I need. If I need something more accurate then I have access to that.

 

[hounddogman]

It's at the top end of your budget but I recommend this one https://www.amazon.com/CDI-Torque-2...0479461&sr=8-1&keywords=cdi+torque+1/2+wrench CDI is a Snap-On company and it's American made . I've had one for about 5 years .

 

[OneOffStroker]

Any suggestions on brand or style would be appreciated as I've nowhere to go but up in quality since all three of my current torque wrenches are HF cheapies.

Up until two years ago, I ran a calibration lab for the Navy, and I was the mechanical gauge calibration specialist. Since I had access to the calibration tools, I ran MANY different torque wrenches through the ringer, including a lot of HF ones for myself and others. EVERY ONE OF THEM was spot on. Repeatable measurements time after time.

So for a 9.99 torque wrench, you cannot go wrong. Seriously.

But as far as a 250 lb-ft unit, they don't make one, so that's a no go.

 

[reelamin]

I'm thinking I'll be doing my timing belt myself this summer so it's time to up my torque wrench game to a 250lb one. I'll probably limit my budget to $150 or so for this.

Any suggestions on brand or style would be appreciated as I've nowhere to go but up in quality since all three of my current torque wrenches are HF cheapies.

I have used my SK for years and it has always been right on when I check it. I have not had to make one adjustment for over 15 years. I just swapped out 5 full sets of summer tires and every winter wheel was as when I put them on.

 

[reelamin]

All hail the highway robber!
Snap-On Techwrench 12.5-250lb

But if you want to save some cash for other things... then I'd go with something like a Husky. I have a similar version of this and works fine for what I need. If I need something more accurate then I have access to that.

LOL SNAP ON....I have a 3/8 Snap On for my toys with the lower torque settings. I spent almost $500 because when only setting to 10lbs one or two lbs is huge so "get the best". Yeah Right....GET RIPPED OFF! I have had to have them calibrate/adjust it several times, but my SK has never once been off for 30% of the cost.

 

[LittleCaesar]

Kobalt at Lowes. Can find them sometimes on sale for $60.

Also get yourself a 1/2" 16" breaker bar for the bump start method. If you need to remove the AC bracket bolts get a 14mm stubby ratcheting wrench.

 

[RockyrT4R]

Rent one from Autozone, its completely free once returned and you wont be buying a torque wrench that wont fit on smaller jobs, and will be overkill. I did mine with a small and medium size craftsman torque wrench (150 ft-lbs max or something) and for the crank bolt I just used an impact wrench then later rented a torque wrench just to check it was tight enough.(probably not the best way to do it but it works)

 

[RockyrT4R]

Kobalt at Lowes. Can find them sometimes on sale for $60.

Also get yourself a 1/2" 16" breaker bar for the bump start method. If you need to remove the AC bracket bolts get a 14mm stubby ratcheting wrench.

I broke my craftsman breaker bar with that method and ended up using my torque wrench

 

[StreetCreeper]

I bought the longer Husky 1/2 " torque wrench from home depot. The extra length comes in handy on big hub nuts and crank bolts.

My 3/8" one stopped klicking at any setting so I need a new one. I'm looking at the AC delco digital one


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I'll check the Husky version out. Was the 3/8 one that broke a Husky? My 3/8 HF stopped clicking too.

All hail the highway robber!
Snap-On Techwrench 12.5-250lb

But if you want to save some cash for other things... then I'd go with something like a Husky. I have a similar version of this and works fine for what I need. If I need something more accurate then I have access to that.

I think I'd have to sell a kidney to afford a $500 torque wrench!

Thats two for Husky though! I like some of their ratcheting wrenches, but never used their torque wrenches.

It's at the top end of your budget but I recommend this one https://www.amazon.com/CDI-Torque-2...0479461&sr=8-1&keywords=cdi+torque+1/2+wrench CDI is a Snap-On company and it's American made . I've had one for about 5 years .

This is certainly a possible!

Up until two years ago, I ran a calibration lab for the Navy, and I was the mechanical gauge calibration specialist. Since I had access to the calibration tools, I ran MANY different torque wrenches through the ringer, including a lot of HF ones for myself and others. EVERY ONE OF THEM was spot on. Repeatable measurements time after time.

So for a 9.99 torque wrench, you cannot go wrong. Seriously.

But as far as a 250 lb-ft unit, they don't make one, so that's a no go.

I'm sure they are accurate when they work, but I've lost confidence in all HF torque wrenches after my 3/8 one stopped working. The 1/2 wrench I'll still use, if I have to, but I'm just ready to be done with HF in the torque wrench department. Plus as you already mentioned, they don't have a 250lb version.

I have used my SK for years and it has always been right on when I check it. I have not had to make one adjustment for over 15 years. I just swapped out 5 full sets of summer tires and every winter wheel was as when I put them on.

I've heard good things about SK in general, so I'll be looking into their torque wrenches.

Kobalt at Lowes. Can find them sometimes on sale for $60.

Also get yourself a 1/2" 16" breaker bar for the bump start method. If you need to remove the AC bracket bolts get a 14mm stubby ratcheting wrench.

I saw these at Lowes and definitely liked the price! This is a top contender for both the price and good reviews. And I'll definitely be doing the bump start method with a breaker bar as I'm much too lazy to get all crafty and build a tool for it.

Do you only need to remove the A/C bracket if the hydraulic tensioner is being replaced? I read the write-ups a while back but can't recall all the little details. Guess I better go read them again...

 

[StreetCreeper]

Rent one from Autozone, its completely free once returned and you wont be buying a torque wrench that wont fit on smaller jobs, and will be overkill. I did mine with a small and medium size craftsman torque wrench (150 ft-lbs max or something) and for the crank bolt I just used an impact wrench then later rented a torque wrench just to check it was tight enough.(probably not the best way to do it but it works)

Shit, I'm not sure I'd trust a rental unless they calibrate those things constantly. We all know how rental cars get driven...

I do like the free price tag though!

I broke my craftsman breaker bar with that method and ended up using my torque wrench

Damn, is that method really violent or was that breaker bar just defective?

 

[LittleCaesar]

The Lowes torque wrench is $80 at the moment. It even comes with a case. I have a 100ft/lb one, it rarely gets used but has been useful. With ALL torque wrenches, return them to the lowest setting before putting them away.

The 16" breaker bar is almost the perfect length to rest on the frame rail. To prevent the breaker bar from meeting a quick death I bought some 5/8 pipe, cut it and then slid it over the breaker bar, then rested it on the frame rail. A quick bump of the starter and all was well.

You can replace the tensioner by using a 10mm 1/4 swivel to get to one of the bolts. I actually broke the ratchet I was using, cursed fellow member [MENTION=44978]kball[/MENTION] for his luck, and had to pull the AC bracket to remove the tensioner. If you don't want to replace it buy the Schley tool to make your life easier.

Don't forget long and short 19mm 1/2" impact sockets.

 

[LittleCaesar]

By the way there is a digital version of the Kobalt for the same price. That is great but there is no audible signal that one has reached the desired torque. Worthless IMHO.

 

[StreetCreeper]

Here's what I use. No complaints for the most part.

1/4" - BikeMaster Digital Torque Wrench Adapter
Digital Torque Wrench Adaptor - Tools & Shop Supplies

3/8" - CDI clicker
CDI Torque Products

1/2" - Sears Craftsman 'Digitork' clicker #44597 purchased many years ago

I'm not familiar with BikeMaster brand or that style of digital torque wrench. Looks interesting for smaller applications but even the bigger 1/2 is only rated for 147lbs so it's a no-go for the crank bolt.

I'm definitely considering the CDI brand in 1/2" just based on reputation. They are at the upper end of my budget though.

Strangely, I've not even looked into Craftsman brand. I use their C3 electric impact wrench and have a set of Craftsman deep impact sockets (friggin rust magnets) — other than that I've largely steered away from Sears stuff.

I think I'll go see what sears has to offer

 

[StreetCreeper]

The Lowes torque wrench is $80 at the moment. It even comes with a case. I have a 100ft/lb one, it rarely gets used but has been useful. With ALL torque wrenches, return them to the lowest setting before putting them away.

The 16" breaker bar is almost the perfect length to rest on the frame rail. To prevent the breaker bar from meeting a quick death I bought some 5/8 pipe, cut it and then slid it over the breaker bar, then rested it on the frame rail. A quick bump of the starter and all was well.

You can replace the tensioner by using a 10mm 1/4 swivel to get to one of the bolts. I actually broke the ratchet I was using, cursed fellow member [MENTION=44978]kball[/MENTION] for his luck, and had to pull the AC bracket to remove the tensioner. If you don't want to replace it buy the Schley tool to make your life easier.

Don't forget long and short 19mm 1/2" impact sockets.

Yeah all my wrenches get reset to zero when I'm done.

I'll have to remember the 5/8 pipe trick!

As for the tensioner, I have at least nearly 300,000 miles on this timing belt and tensioner since the PO "thinks" the timing belt was replaced about 12-15 years ago @ around 125,000 miles. So it's time for a new one I should think.

By the way there is a digital version of the Kobalt for the same price. That is great but there is no audible signal that one has reached the desired torque. Worthless IMHO.

Ok that is pretty dumb! Hahaha....

 

[19963.4lsr5]

The broken 3/8" was a cheep unit from the Cummins Tool truck at the local firehall.

I'm borrowing my brothers 3/8" to torque the exhaust cam after reshimming. I'm probably going to get the AC Delco digital after reading the reviews.

A bunch of 3/8" torque wrenches on Amazon look exactly like the cheep one that broke. Not buying any that look like my old one.

I'm pretty sure the long Husky wrench goes to 250ftlbs. I needed 175ftlbs for the hub nut on the front axle a D60


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[habanero]

Getting ready to do the timing belt/ water pump/ thermostat, tb idler and tensioner pulley, upper and lower radiator hoses (because age/mileage) and heater control valve (because leaking and coolant drained for the tb job anyway).

Belts and heater hoses were changed not long ago so am not doing those.

Have the lowes torque wrench, the schley hydraulic tensioner tool (not needed if replacing entire tensioner) and a modified crank pulley holder, plus a bit of pipe to extend the breaker bar handle because I am not strong enough to break it loose without a little leverage help. Will be putting a piece of cardboard between the radiator and me rather than pull the radiator out.

Time and miles fly- this will be the third time I've done the tb on the 96.

 

[kball]

The Lowes torque wrench is $80 at the moment. It even comes with a case. I have a 100ft/lb one, it rarely gets used but has been useful. With ALL torque wrenches, return them to the lowest setting before putting them away.

The 16" breaker bar is almost the perfect length to rest on the frame rail. To prevent the breaker bar from meeting a quick death I bought some 5/8 pipe, cut it and then slid it over the breaker bar, then rested it on the frame rail. A quick bump of the starter and all was well.

You can replace the tensioner by using a 10mm 1/4 swivel to get to one of the bolts. I actually broke the ratchet I was using, cursed fellow member [MENTION=44978]kball[/MENTION] for his luck, and had to pull the AC bracket to remove the tensioner. If you don't want to replace it buy the Schley tool to make your life easier.

Don't forget long and short 19mm 1/2" impact sockets.

HaHa don't curse me, just buy a better ratchet! MORE TOOLS!!

Streetcreep, I would whole heartedly recommend this:Precision Instruments C3FR250F 1/2 inch - Measuring, Precision - Torque Wrench

Split beam is the way to go. Super easy to set and you never have to "wind it down". There's no pressure on the mechanism unless you're actively torqueing something. I have the 3/8 and 1/2 models and love them.

 

[Myrunr2010]

Up until two years ago, I ran a calibration lab for the Navy, and I was the mechanical gauge calibration specialist. Since I had access to the calibration tools, I ran MANY different torque wrenches through the ringer, including a lot of HF ones for myself and others. EVERY ONE OF THEM was spot on. Repeatable measurements time after time.

So for a 9.99 torque wrench, you cannot go wrong. Seriously.

But as far as a 250 lb-ft unit, they don't make one, so that's a no go.

Interesting, glad I read this!