TC actuator maintenance?

[CookieRoe]

Transfer case actuators (V6 or V8) have a tendency of failure due to non-use. Another thing that will kill them is if you have a leak (or if the breather tube is done). Anyway, is there anything that can be done proactively (apart from exercising it). The only thing that comes to mind is taking the cover off (being especially careful not letting the gears fall out) and spraying WD40 in there to "loosen everything up" ??

Thanks

 

[youngr]

I think the best bet is to cycle it through on a monthly basis.... Taking it apart etc. as far as I'm concerned would be just adding more chance of messing something else up.

 

[CookieRoe]

I think the best bet is to cycle it through on a monthly basis.... Taking it apart etc. as far as I'm concerned would be just adding more chance of messing something else up.

Very true, BUT, From what I've read, as long as you only take the cover off, be very gentle and make sure the gears don't pop out or whatever (someone correct me if I'm wrong), you should be good to go. Cycling it often won't do anything to the aged lubricant in there. I'm not saying to overhaul it (if i had a garage, time and know-how, I totally would), but a few "spritzes" couldn't hurt it......... right?

Hmmm, this calls for a answer from [MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION]

 

[BlackWorksInc]

Regularly actuating the transfercase seems to prevent rust/gunk seizing/gluing the teeth of the gears and shaft together. That being said the grease in there isn't the prettiest looking stuff after 10years (it looks cream colored and a bit dry) but it still has tackiness and lubrication to it, it appears to be something like a white lithium grease I take it.

The problem is that I don't know if WD40 or PB Blaster would be a good idea, the insides have exposed electrical contacts that could be shorted as well as position switches that aren't sealed (except for the actuator's main seal.) I suppose one could use something like a white lithium grease spray or a non-conductive grease, but the actuator is actually split into two levels with a plastic plate between the 2Hi-4Lo section and the CDL section, so spraying to the CDL portion may not be easy.

It is definitely a "do at your own risk" situation, but an interesting idea that would require testing. I would refer to this thread to see what I am talking about, it was the one I used when taking apart one at work for a customer as a last ditch effort to try and get their 4WD working before recommending a new actuator:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/80283-2004-v8-4x4-actuator-replacement-2.html

Post Note-

Nice touch on the Bat Signal [MENTION=50507]CookieRoe[/MENTION]! lol

 

[CookieRoe]

Thanks [MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION] . Doing some reading on what WD40 really is (I always knew it wasn't a lubricant) and it isn't the best thing to "loosen up" dried lubricant from the factory and rust. Turns out dry WD40 is a dirt/dust magnet which is something our actuators DON'T need. It can possibly break down the plastic gears in there and of course, that's a huge no no.

As our 4Rs age, one knows that components starts to deteriorate. I know our rigs won't last forever, one only tried to make them last longer and/or better.

Batsignal? LOL, glad you liked it!

 

[BlackWorksInc]

Thanks [MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION] . Doing some reading on what WD40 really is (I always knew it wasn't a lubricant) and it isn't the best thing to "loosen up" dried lubricant from the factory and rust. Turns out dry WD40 is a dirt/dust magnet which is something our actuators DON'T need. It can possibly break down the plastic gears in there and of course, that's a huge no no.

As our 4Rs age, one knows that components starts to deteriorate. I know our rigs won't last forever, one only tried to make them last longer and/or better.

Batsignal? LOL, glad you liked it!

Yeah, WD-40 is actually a water displacer (Hence WD), its not really meant as a lubricant, even PB Blaster isn't meant as a lubricant; its just meant to loosen stuff up.

A white lithium grease is probably what the factory used when they made the actuator. The biggest thing I noticed when I took one apart a while back was that rust formed on the plastic gear and the actuator shaft where they were resting in CDL-OFF position. The rust/gunk actually glued the teeth of the gear to the shaft and required a lot of force to break them loose to get the teeth to mesh again. Though I probably wouldn't go taking them apart to grease regularly...

Post Note-

Is that not a screen clip from a Batman Movie/Cartoon? It looks like one.

 

[CookieRoe]

Yeah, WD-40 is actually a water displacer (Hence WD), its not really meant as a lubricant, even PB Blaster isn't meant as a lubricant; its just meant to loosen stuff up.

A white lithium grease is probably what the factory used when they made the actuator. The biggest thing I noticed when I took one apart a while back was that rust formed on the plastic gear and the actuator shaft where they were resting in CDL-OFF position. The rust/gunk actually glued the teeth of the gear to the shaft and required a lot of force to break them loose to get the teeth to mesh again. Though I probably wouldn't go taking them apart to grease regularly...

Post Note-

Is that not a screen clip from a Batman Movie/Cartoon? It looks like one.

You see, that's my problem. I would love to take it apart, clean it up, relube and feel at ease that it won't break on me. My 4Hi takes a while to engage, but once the drivetrain is nice and warm, it works fast and fine. Haven't tried 4Lo. I'm deathly scared of even trying. Urghh

Screen clip from a Batman cartoon, I think. I made this meme a while ago, thinking someday I'll be able to use it, hahhahaa.

Thanks!