Temporary Fix Question

Hollis

New member
So I broke a driver side rear shock stem last weekend wheeling, I went ahead and ordered the Toytec Ultimate kit with the Bilstein upgrade. I have been driving on it as it is my daily driver. It may be a month or so before I can do the lift.

I was wondering if I can get away with replacing the rear factory shocks (one broken) with the Bilstein 5125s for a month with the factory rear springs still in the back (the springs were switched to the better factory springs in 2000) before I do the full lift?

Do you think the compressed shock (due to the shorter factory spring) will damage the shock on a short term basis (1 month max)?

Thanks in advance!
 
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If your swapping one shock in the rear, then your pretty much half done with doing the whole rear. The front shouldn't be that difficult either since the ultimate set up in the front doesn't require re-using any of your stock strut assembly. Why risk damage putting off what shouldn't take that long to do in the first place.
 
Why do some people answer posts without answering the question?
Maybe it is just to get their total posts up?

I know how long it takes, I know what's involved.

You don't know my life or schedule so feel free not to post again. :tsk:

Anyways, if anyone has an answer to the actual question please feel free to post.

I called Toytec before the original post and got an answer I am not to convinced about. The one person I talked to said it should be ok for a short while, but her answer did not sound definitive. I did not want to post that answer to not sway any future posts.

Thanks
 
Listed in order of preference:

Option 1: If you've got a well-stocked junkyard nearby, I'd even pull a junkyard shock for $10 and run that for a while. If not, then the cheapest shock you can get at Vato Zone. You can destroy your new shocks if you bottom them out hard. Just being over compressed for a month (without bottoming out) I don't think will do any major damage.

Option 2: If you measure the compressed length of the new shock and measure the compressed length of a stocker and find them to be about the same, then you can run the new ones. Or you can extend the bumpstops to get you by.

Option 3: I have gone for a month or so with no rear shocks at all (in a leaf sprung vehicle) and while I don't recommend it, it can be done if you drive very carefully.
 
I was gonna respond, but now I'm scurred I might get in trouble from Nazi OP :(

Don't be scared.... :biggrin1:

I just don't like when people post, "just to post a smart @$$ answer"

I went to the local yard yesterday and picked up a used for $7. Got it in and no more noise! I figured running those extended shocks near the bottom of their travel would ruin them.

THanks for the info all.
 
Sorry let me be more clear instead of trying the PC route.

You are an idiot for even thinking about running a shock designed for more suspension travel on a suspension with less. It's going to have the same problem that people have trying to lower cars with stock length shocks. Even if its okay at static height it will only take a couple of good bumps to compress it beyond its intended amount and damage it.
 
Sorry let me be more clear instead of trying the PC route.

You are an idiot for even thinking about running a shock designed for more suspension travel on a suspension with less. It's going to have the same problem that people have trying to lower cars with stock length shocks. Even if its okay at static height it will only take a couple of good bumps to compress it beyond its intended amount and damage it.

Not sure why you have resorted to calling names. You get an E for effort for being a big man on an internet forum. :bravo:
 
Don't be scared.... :biggrin1:

I just don't like when people post, "just to post a smart @$$ answer"

I went to the local yard yesterday and picked up a used for $7. Got it in and no more noise! I figured running those extended shocks near the bottom of their travel would ruin them.

THanks for the info all.

If your swapping one shock in the rear, then your pretty much half done with doing the whole rear. The front shouldn't be that difficult either since the ultimate set up in the front doesn't require re-using any of your stock strut assembly. Why risk damage putting off what shouldn't take that long to do in the first place.

Hollis, this was pretty solid advice but I hear you on not having time to put the entire suspension in at once. If this is your first suspension upgrade on this truck you are bound to have issues with rusty bolts. It took me several hours to get the rusty bolts off my truck. I replaced most with new ones and used plenty of antiseize.

Glad you found a cheap fix though.
 
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