The Grounding kit? Anyone done it?

Some1esle

Some1esle

New member
OK. Bought one like this one but without instructions....
Grounding kit
I figure it can't hurt. Has anyone else done it? Seems I lucked out on my search for instructions though. The auction I just found has them.. ...Any other grounds I should ad to the list that is on this auction?
Thanks in advance.
 
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after further research, and looking directly into my engine compartment... It looks like I need to do the basic grounding first. The The grounding is pretty weak, Like 16 gauge wire, looks factory though. I Believe I'll go to the parts stor and get some 4 guage wire, and some ends. Then replace the Neg to chassis, neg to chassis, and neg to wherever the other wire from the neg goes. The one that does not go directly to the fender... Then install the kit.
 
I've stongly considered a grounding kit. I really see no harm it could do and for about 20 bucks you really wouldn't be out much.
 
Red3.slow said:
I've stongly considered a grounding kit. I really see no harm it could do and for about 20 bucks you really wouldn't be out much.
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Agreed.. I do not see anyway it would harm anything, it might even do $20 worth of good.
 
Do you have an aftermarket stero ( new head, sub, amp) or any accessories like that. If so try it and let me know what changes you see.
 
Red3.slow said:
Do you have an aftermarket stero ( new head, sub, amp) or any accessories like that. If so try it and let me know what changes you see.
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Yep, I got a bunch... Head unit, XM unit, 8 2-way speakers, 2 subs, And an electrical outlet for the computer. So the Kids can play and watch dvd's on trips. I'm also think about a gps... I have a kit that is 8 guage, but I'm going to do 2, or 4 guage for the "Big 3". I read about them doing a search here on it. and figure might as well do it right if I'm going to do it... I'll definetly post results... The HP, start, and other seemingly lame claims will need to be done later since I'm still in the middle of the exhaust upgrade.... So I'm going to wait until after that to do it, Week from today.
 
Sounds good. Take some pictures of your stero and all that i'd be interested to see how you hooked it all up.
 
Red3.slow said:
Sounds good. Take some pictures of your stero and all that i'd be interested to see how you hooked it all up.
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iT'S easy. I have 2 each 4 inch polk audio 2-way in the dash boxes, and 2 each 4 inch polk audio 2-way in the top rear where to tweets were in above the rear windows. those are running from the pioneer premier head 50w x 4. Actually running about 35w x 4 rms. Then There is 3 low volt outs: 2 to the 4x50w alpine amp, that's 4 more channels. 2 5.25 inch polk audio 2 ways in qform kick panels down in front, and 2 4 inch polk 2 ways in the side panel boxes in the rear. Then the third low volt/sub out to the 2 x 400 watts sub beater... Nothing but 10 channel awesome sound.
 
Red3.slow said:
where did you mount your amps? I have mine on the back of one of the rear seats
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On top the sub box... with it facing backwards... the box is pretty small, and I believe I'm going to get a bigger box, or build some custom boxes for thr side panels. that way I can face the subs angled in and back, or in and forward. I can split the boxes, and make the front part for some 6x9 3-way, or some componets.. Also I can make them match my oak interior. If I build some boxes side panel boxes, I'll post my build notes, and some pics... If I go that way I will probably switch subs to some Infinity Kappa Perfect 12.1 subs, with maybe a resonator in each box as well. I'll probably go with two smaller say 400W mono-block amps as well... That way I would have a set of Baselinks on steriods... I'm pretty good for now. I listen to a wide range of music.... Robert Johnson Blues - Modern Death Metal depending on my mood... And I want to feel the music like it's live. I may build myself a couple 20W Vacum tube amps to power the side boxes as well. Maybe even the rest... I'll keep 4 channels on the head unit just to keep the pioneer in the mix. I need to get the grounding right on this truck before I do Anything else. Well, the Wood trim kit (Real burl wood veneer, cover with table top epox finish) tomorrow. I have to heat the wood to make it fit in some places, and 3M is the only way to go for the adhesive... I use the same technic to make faceplates for the custom vintage vacum tube guitar amps I build.... Point to point hand soldered is the only way to go. The only part I haven't figured out for the auto tube amps is anti vibration mounting, and I haven't tried the power inverter schematic that found that I put infront of the mono block amp I wrote... If Build one I'll let you all know how it sounds...
 
Wow... I've got a couple of 6x9 boxes mounted to my side pannels over the wheel wells. Although i'm thinking about building some cargo boxes to mount my amps, speakers, maybe sub as well as maybe some camping cargo.
 
Red3.slow said:
Sounds quality is what matters to me. Wattage is ultimately for bragging rights
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Exactly.. I think that I'm going to build two stereo Vaccum tube amps just to be the first to have it in town, and for the sound quality. These I will run my the 4 inch speaks off of....

Sound quality is were it's at... If you have 10000 watts total, and your system sounds like shit, it's just very loud shit. But good quality at any volume is awesome.
 
Red3.slow said:
on top of good sound quality it'll be something cool to display.
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I did the grounding today..... I used the ground kit like on Ebay, but (there's always a but).... OK, I mentioned before that I thought that the OEM grounding was a little week. There were two cables from the Battery neg. One to the fender, and one to the chassis. The one to the fender was about 16 gauge strained, and almost broken. The one to the chassis was like 10 guage stranded and also nearly broken. The starter wire was a very new 4 guage starter cable. I got some Copperfield #1 Stranded welding wire, soldered Copper lugs on it... I ran one down to the nut that holds the Brush guard to the frame... I sanded both the lug of the wire, and the spot where the bolt goes in... Then ran it back to the Battery neg. I ran another to the Alternater bracket bolt... Sanding again. I noticed when I touched the neg post to sparked and arced a little.... I had left the pos on... After grounding the alternater it no longer arced or sparked... I then ran one of the 8 guage that came with the kit to the fender., to the firewall, to one of the headlamp mounting bolts, one to the bolt in the middle top of the injector body, then one to a manifold bolt on either side of the engine, I made a 8 guage that runs down to the Trans, I ran one over to a ground screw that is in the coil mounting bolt. My stereo is all grounded with 4 guage, and powered off the Battery pos with 4 gauge. If this truck is not grounded effectively now I do not believe it ever will be.. I did this with the assistance of a guy who owns and operates an automotive electrical business.... Starter, alternator, coil repair and sale...Has been doing so for atleast 10 years... Pos he is a liscensed Electrician. If anyone would know about grounding he should...
The results:
Idle is sits solid at about 800 Rpms...
Stereo no longer has that whine that it did before... Engine may take one less turn before starting... The battery indicator does go up and down more... The engine seems to run smoother... the shifting seems smoother. the dash lights seem to not dim when I crank the stereo....
All in all I can't comfirm or deny anyone else's results, however, I would guess I got my $20 worth out of the kit... I got the welding wire free, and the copper lugs free, and I had the solder... I'd say if you haven't done it and you have a 1st or 2nd gen 4runner, Do it... It's like $20 of insurance if nothing else...
 
Does The install look Clean? Is everything out of harms way if you should find a trail some where? I think I'm going to give this a try next time i've got 20 bucks laying around.
 
Red3.slow said:
Does The install look Clean? Is everything out of harms way if you should find a trail some where? I think I'm going to give this a try next time i've got 20 bucks laying around.
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Yep, Clean and wire tide... Nothing hanging down under the chassis. everything is up in the frame or in the engine compartment, or in the body.. If you look at the top of the motor you will see a few irregularities, but underneath nothing.. The most important thing about it was the huge 1 gauge stranded for the alternator, chassis, and engine block. I do not think I would have done the kit without doing those first... It will allow the major grounding to be done through the huge wire...
 
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