The Josh's Build Thread

i didn't have the right fittings when i originally installed my air compressors so i re-did the plumbing this evening. i moved the filter near the battery and i shielded the stainless leader hoses with 5/8' heater hose going through the radiator support. i also removed the driver headlight to rewire a few things and hide the ddm ballast underneath


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Cleaner install


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Air filter and 2 to 1 "T" leading to air tank

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Replaced Both Optimas This Weekend With A DieHard Platinum Starting Battery And A DieHard Platinum Marine Battery For My Aux


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Almost Finish With My Re-Wire Project

The only thing left to do is make 2 jumpers from the battery to the BusBar and re do the terminals on the aux battery

i made brackets using thick plastics sheets i got in the bargain bin at Tap Plastics. i decided to mount a cover over the engine fuse box to give more surface ares for the busbars and to create a space to mount the Hella Relay Box. the relay box was a tad tricky to figure out in the beginning, but once i did it came out really clean. all my wires are easily accessible, clean and protected with Non-Flammable PET sleeves.

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I received my Ballistic Fab Battery Trap today so i immediately pulled it out of the box and painted it. while the paint was drying i was figuring out how to make it fit. this battery and battery tray is much larger than the optima so it took some work to make it fit. another thing i noticed is the tray has 2 "wings" on each side when the top plate mounts to so that makes install a bit harder. i reinforced the bottom mounts and tilted the battery slightly towards the firewall, lastly i move the Intelligent solenoid to the right 4 inches to clear the battery.

when i have the time I'm gonna build another little bracket to hold the Midi fuse for the rear outlet and the Midi fuse for the Battery cable running from the main to give it a clean look like it i did with the fuse block a week or so ago


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i dont i Think ever posted how i hid my JL G6600 amp. i just removed it tonight to send out for service because 2 channels are not working. so i figured id snap a few pics of hows it mounted. its been in this location for probably 3 years now and never had issues. its a lot of work to take it in and out but its nice to have it hidden


amp mounted

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amp removed

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i dont i Think ever posted how i hid my JL G6600 amp. i just removed it tonight to send out for service because 2 channels are not working. so i figured id snap a few pics of hows it mounted. its been in this location for probably 3 years now and never had issues. its a lot of work to take it in and out but its nice to have it hidden

Do you have any issues with engine noise running the 12V power outlet wires next to the amp? I'm planning to run extra outlets in the same location as you and planning how to run the wires.
 
Do you have any issues with engine noise running the 12V power outlet wires next to the amp? I'm planning to run extra outlets in the same location as you and planning how to run the wires.

Nope no engine noise. The wires aren't really near the amp. I ran the power wires for the outlets through The driver side firewall and down the driver side sills, the I routed them across the cargo area behind The rear seats and cut a dogleg right under the wheel well cover to The rear directly under the outlets and then they are routed vertical to the outlets.

So The closet the wires come to the amp is at the outlets which is about a 8-10 inch buffer
 
Phase 1 - Prepping the Area / Removing Spare Tire Brackets


i removed 4 brackets that were to support the spare tire when it was raised up and i removed material to make a nice smooth finish on the frame which i later painted.


here the cleaned up areas

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i receieved my 15 gallon water tank today so i test fitted it in the cargo area. fits perfect just as i measured. the pictures shows how low its hanging but this is just a mock up. i plan to relocate the charcoal canister then i will be able to move the tank up 7 inches so it will be completely tucked up under the bumper and frame rails. the plan to support the tank will be to weld in two crossmembers between the frame rails and to support the pump. i will probably have a hinge on one cross member to swing down in case i need to remove the tank and for easy install and to easily access fittings and the pump. to secure the tank to the crossmembers i will have a bolted strap that wraps around the tank to each crossmember.


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Another thing i forgot to add is once everything is installed and fitted perfectly. i will have a skid plate made to completely cover up the whole area underneath the cargo area (VIA a friend's CNC machine) and ill probably match it to the rest of the skids or maybe just black

it will be a easy bolt up into the new crossmembers for access


It just looks like a tight fit in the pics, it's such a hard angle to show well. But yeah there is quite a bit of room on all sides, I'll also have a good "buffer" above the tank too. I'm thinking of doing some type of "padded" straps that will secure around The tank. Once I relocate The charcoal canister I will be able to better access in what position I will finally put the water tank.


The tanks is extremely stout too, I was skeptical looking at it online. But now having it in hand I'm impressed, it also has baffles internally for strength
 
i moved some emissions stuff today to clear room for the water tank.

i relocated the charcoal canister closer to the front of the truck. i have to modify a mount on the front of the canister. the rear of it was able to bolt into the former fore mount location. its hard to see from the pic but here is is with just the back half mounted

ill tackle the rest tomorrow

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i was able to get the tank flush how i was hoping it would work out. i had to trim a few more thin metal mounts that were previously associated with the spare tire lowering mechanism

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now that there is all this free space on the driver side of the tank i will position the pump and fittings on that side of the tank for easy access
 
got a lot of stuff done with the On Board Water System this weekend

Welding up some mounts (thanks to my buddy eric for the fab work)

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crossmembers boxed, grinded down and mocked up

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then i primed and painted the mounts and cross members. i reinstalled the air tank and moved a few fittings around. i wrapped the top and bottom of the water tank in some B-quiet just to assist with vibration and retaining heat (used the last i had left) for padding on the top of the tank i used a 1/2 high density insulfoam liner and ill do the same on the bottom under the mounts when i do final installation (still want to drive around a bit and see how it holds up

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i still need to install the pump and wire that up. i was originally planning on just running 1 pump that would pump the water to the heat exchanger and the bank into the tank then i can switch it to run to the shower. but after many time thinking about it i may end up running 2 pumps, 1 for the heat exchanger and 1 soley for the shower, it'll actually simplify the system where ill be able to control the system from inside the cargo area versus manually switching a valve underneath the truck.

i plan to have the pump switches inside the cargo area with the water temp meter above it, installed on the little access panel on the left.

also installed the fresh water fill valve into the bumper. came out very clean!

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