The "Pile" build.
- Thread starter BoatRacer
- Start date
BoatRacer
New member
Some days It's very frustrating doing this kind of work. I got the parts this afternoon, luckily I ordered extra axle clips because I broke the first one. For some reason, the birf was difficult going in and I smashed three fingers at the same time, badly. The last bolt for the spindle cross threaded into the knuckle, I got to the parts store just in time to pick up a 10x1.25mm tap. I got it back it back apart and the threads all cleaned up. With that fixed, I go to tap in the bearing grease seal, using the proper driver, and the damn spring retainer comes out? That's a first for me. So, it's back to the parts store in the morning to see if they have another grease seal so I can get the rest put together. I really hope to be bleeding the brake system tomorrow afternoon and seeing if these 37's are going to clear!
BigBluePile
New member
Man I know the feeling!
ajohnson
New member
My 37's are pretty tight with my axle position. I need to trim about an inch from the rear edge of the fenders, and I'm going to BFH the firewall to keep the tire out of it. IIRC you have RUF springs so you may have a better axle position than me, and better clearance.
Oh, and I also know the feeling.
Oh, and I also know the feeling.
BoatRacer
New member
Well, it's back on the ground and looking pretty good. My list of repairs is growing and it still goes down the road feeling like your going to die at any second, not sure where to start there? There is a lot more rust in it that I first thought, all filled and poorly painted over. The frame and bottom half of the truck is solid. I'm making progress though and I'm happy with it for what it is. I don't like the look of the front end wider than the rear, but I'll be forced to run wheel spacers up front if I want to wheel it. They barely clear without and any airing down of the tires will surely cause a rub.
Short list:
Radiator, tie rod ends, alignment, wheel spacers, rear locker and gears, adjust valves, winch.
Short list:
Radiator, tie rod ends, alignment, wheel spacers, rear locker and gears, adjust valves, winch.
BoatRacer
New member
I picked up another nice set of Chevy 63" rear springs a couple weeks ago. I plan to have them re-arched and gain a few more inches of lift. I'm not sure what to do about the fronts. There is a guy locally selling a set of rear 4' lift pro comps. I could pick those up and run them up front or buy a new pair of 5" trail gear leafs. I think the TG's would bring my axle reward some though?
Also, is there anyway to test the shocks? I don't know if they are any good or not?
I did leave the front driveline off for now. I installed a 5.29 drop out with a Lock Right locker up front. I got it in trade, but I don't want to be temped to use it yet since I'm still running with the stock birfs and axles. I have a 5.29 welded rear diff, but I'm nervous about running it on the street fearing it might break on me. How do you guys feel about running welded diffs on the road?
Also, is there anyway to test the shocks? I don't know if they are any good or not?
I did leave the front driveline off for now. I installed a 5.29 drop out with a Lock Right locker up front. I got it in trade, but I don't want to be temped to use it yet since I'm still running with the stock birfs and axles. I have a 5.29 welded rear diff, but I'm nervous about running it on the street fearing it might break on me. How do you guys feel about running welded diffs on the road?
Last edited:
KidVermicious
New member
If you're going to do Chevy rears, why not put the stock rears up front? I think most guys get 3 to 3.5 inches out of stock rears, do you need to go higher? RUF will bring your axle forward two inches, I dunno about the Trailgear springs.
You can run a welded rear on the road. Your tires won't like it at all, but you shouldn't be at risk of breaking anything.
You can run a welded rear on the road. Your tires won't like it at all, but you shouldn't be at risk of breaking anything.
BoatRacer
New member
I'm running stock RUF and 63"s now. All of the eyelet bushing are completely worn out and the front left spring pack has a broken leaf. The rears are worn so badly that one is sagging more than the other. I plan to replace all the springs and I need more lift in the rear to stuff these 37's. The newer set of 63"s I just bought have good bushings and came off a clean '97 2x4 truck. I'm hoping for another 3" or so lift from having them re-arched. I just don't know what to buy for the front.
ajohnson
New member
I wouldn't lift it any higher, you don't want it to get too tippy on the trails. Just trim the fenders.
RUF springs push the axle forward 2". TG springs only push it forward 1", but you could drill the spring plate or the springs to push it farther forward.
TG 5" springs are really tall. I would rebuild the RUF packs or get TG 4" springs but keep the axle in the same position. But you also need to make sure your shackle angle will be good if you switch to TG springs.
RUF springs push the axle forward 2". TG springs only push it forward 1", but you could drill the spring plate or the springs to push it farther forward.
TG 5" springs are really tall. I would rebuild the RUF packs or get TG 4" springs but keep the axle in the same position. But you also need to make sure your shackle angle will be good if you switch to TG springs.
BoatRacer
New member
Thanks for that, I didn't even think about the spring hanger location. I also didn't know I could rebuild the spring packs, I'll look into that.
I went to look at a Kayline soft top that was CL. When I got there, we pulled it out of the box and found two holes that mice had chewed into it. He felt so bad that he gave me the top and hardware and sold me a pair of Recaro seats for $25! I'll patch the top and run it for now, maybe in the future I'll have the local boat canvas company use it as a template and make me another one.
I went to look at a Kayline soft top that was CL. When I got there, we pulled it out of the box and found two holes that mice had chewed into it. He felt so bad that he gave me the top and hardware and sold me a pair of Recaro seats for $25! I'll patch the top and run it for now, maybe in the future I'll have the local boat canvas company use it as a template and make me another one.
ajohnson
New member
Nice score on the soft top, too bad about the holes though.
As for the spring packs, get some new bushings and try to find some replacement leaves to throw in, maybe build a new pack all together? There is a good thread about them on Pirate. Setup some bumpstops to keep them from going into negative arch, this is what destroys RUF springs.
KidVermicious
New member
Soft tops are the shiznit. I wish I hadn't sold my Kayline.
BoatRacer
New member
I had to fab some small parts and I still have not repaired the little holes. It's tight as hell, was a ***** to button at the back and the right side zipper is bad. The only thing I'm missing is the angle piece for the tailgate, so it's not snapped yet. In reality, I don't think the sides will be down often anyway.
BigBluePile
New member
I really liked my kayline top but I sure don't miss it....
slowpoke99
New member
that is one clean 1st gen!!! we gotta link up once you got it all ironed out and ready to wheel. i'm about 3/4 of the way done with my 3rg gen sas project and i'm probably gonna hit Tahuya or Elbe Hills for a shakedown run. be nice to meet some members face to face and go wheeling!
BigBluePile
New member
BoatRacer
New member
That would be great!
BTW, do you need a straight axle housing for your swap? I have an extra.
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