Thermostats and Engine Temps?
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flyinhawaiian01
New member
OOH OOH!!! ME ME!!!!
I've had a 82ºC t'stat in my truck for many years, it has been great! Temp gauge sits below the half mark all the time and I never worry about overheating any more. Of course, with the 22RE and a stick, I've upgraded the radiator to the V6 auto which is a 3 core instead of the stock 2 core the truck came with.
This lets me run the a/c in 100º temps, at idle, on a trail, for as long as I want and the truck never gets hotter than halfway up. Even under load it does well.
The caveats:
1. Heater sucks in winter! It gets warm, but only after a long period, and if I'm on the highway, it never really gets roasting hot.
2. Engine runs richer. This is good and bad, actually. Running slightly rich is better for an engine than running hot, which leans out the mixture, but will also reduce mileage slightly. Never bothered to see just how much, so I can't say how bad it will be.
3. Because of #3, you may not pass smog if you're in a smog check state. Yeah, I've failed a few times, but I now know just how much to tweak the MAF sensor's wheel (9 teeth tighter gets me to pass but runs like crap!).
I dunno, I'd rather let the engine run on the cooler side of things rather than having a hot engine that's always running lean, but that's just me. Truck still runs like a champ, and even though I'm sure it wastes more fuel, I still get 20mpg on the highway, and I have 35's on the truck (I also run without a cat, shhhhh!)!
I've had a 82ºC t'stat in my truck for many years, it has been great! Temp gauge sits below the half mark all the time and I never worry about overheating any more. Of course, with the 22RE and a stick, I've upgraded the radiator to the V6 auto which is a 3 core instead of the stock 2 core the truck came with.
This lets me run the a/c in 100º temps, at idle, on a trail, for as long as I want and the truck never gets hotter than halfway up. Even under load it does well.
The caveats:
1. Heater sucks in winter! It gets warm, but only after a long period, and if I'm on the highway, it never really gets roasting hot.
2. Engine runs richer. This is good and bad, actually. Running slightly rich is better for an engine than running hot, which leans out the mixture, but will also reduce mileage slightly. Never bothered to see just how much, so I can't say how bad it will be.
3. Because of #3, you may not pass smog if you're in a smog check state. Yeah, I've failed a few times, but I now know just how much to tweak the MAF sensor's wheel (9 teeth tighter gets me to pass but runs like crap!).
I dunno, I'd rather let the engine run on the cooler side of things rather than having a hot engine that's always running lean, but that's just me. Truck still runs like a champ, and even though I'm sure it wastes more fuel, I still get 20mpg on the highway, and I have 35's on the truck (I also run without a cat, shhhhh!)!
For me, I ran the higher temp unit in our 1990 4runner(3VZE, V6). It's temp level that is current to factory standards. I believe they(Toyota) did this to improve detonation quality with the addition of ethanol in the petrol. Our 4runner never moves over the half way mark on the gauge, even with the a/c on sitting in traffic. Having said that, virtually everything in the cooling system is new, including a very pricey factory rad.
BMW did the same thing in their older models. They bumped up the temp slightly to improve the running and detonation quality. Hopefully, the politicians in DC will see the light and get rid of the ethanol requirements.
regards
BMW did the same thing in their older models. They bumped up the temp slightly to improve the running and detonation quality. Hopefully, the politicians in DC will see the light and get rid of the ethanol requirements.
regards
gtgt_bangbang
New member
'95 3vz-e FSM says 80~84C (180F), 22RE 190F
thats the temperature test spec for checking operation.
are you talking 4popper or 6 pack?
also says the valve should lift 8MM or more at 95C / 203F if you really want to sleep well.
this book a fake ?
I just bought a new Stant(?) and it didnt have a jiggle valve ( the little pin off center, apparently for bleeding purposes, as "install thermostat with jiggle pin upward.)
the 22RE specs a 190F ...
thats the temperature test spec for checking operation.
are you talking 4popper or 6 pack?
also says the valve should lift 8MM or more at 95C / 203F if you really want to sleep well.
this book a fake ?
I just bought a new Stant(?) and it didnt have a jiggle valve ( the little pin off center, apparently for bleeding purposes, as "install thermostat with jiggle pin upward.)
the 22RE specs a 190F ...
nevada
Senior Member
use whatever stat is recommended by the manufacturer.
lower is not always better. optimum coolant temperature is just over 200 degrees. they spec a stat based on many variables to achieve the correct cylinders temps.
58rennur4
New member
Well wouldn't the O2 sensor make the adjustment to correct this "richer" condition?
I have been running the 82 C thermostat and checking mileage closely. I am going to switch it to the 88 C and see what that does to test that idea the O2 sensor would pick up on the "richer" condition and make the adjustment.
I'll post up later with what I find. There are definitely two camps when talking about this. So no harm no foul talking about it.
There are so many really old threads here that talk about a lot of good things and as the 84/85/ 86 move into the very collectable category it would be nice to bring some of these topics forward for those who want to return vehicles to stock.
58rennur4
New member
Hmmm hard to follow you....maybe complete some of the points you are trying to make?
gtgt_bangbang
New member
Yeah that's embarrassing, I'm not even sure what all that meant and hell I wrote it.
Was the time stamp really late? I've been working till punchy lately.
Anyway, the temperature spec is such a simple topic it's not really worth discussing, and I spoke too fast for assuming V6 at 180 when the original poster probably has a four at 190.
Was the time stamp really late? I've been working till punchy lately.
Anyway, the temperature spec is such a simple topic it's not really worth discussing, and I spoke too fast for assuming V6 at 180 when the original poster probably has a four at 190.
58rennur4
New member
Haha nah not so late :spy:
I find myself as well finishing thoughts in my head and not writing them out on forums easy thing to do..
So when you say simple I do not get it. What do you mean by that?
The main thing I hear from old school guys is it needs to run hot as possible and the go to reason is the "rich" condition.
My main question was:
- Wouldn't the O2 sensor make up for a "rich" condition and adjust if you ran the 82C thermostat instead of the 88C?
