Very true.
What did they end up doing? If the stud is broken I guess I'm not visualizing why this is such a challenge. Got any pics?
Three broken studs...
- Thread starter Adventuring_Earl
- Start date
Very true.
What did they end up doing? If the stud is broken I guess I'm not visualizing why this is such a challenge. Got any pics?
There are a few scenarios I've used over the years to remove stripped on lug nuts. If the stud is still secured in the flange (not spinning), you can work the nut back and forth using 6pt socket & 1/2" breaker bar. It will eventually fracture the stud right below the nut.
The other scenario is using a Dremel with abrasive cut-off wheel to diagonally cut through the side of the nut.
The other scenario is using a Dremel with abrasive cut-off wheel to diagonally cut through the side of the nut.
Holy hell... :twitch:
What they didn't have an SAE socket to hammer onto it and jam it up? I have an extractor set at work I use for wheel locks (they really are not meant for hardened steel but they still work most of the time) and they get the job done. There was one Matrix that had these super tiny (like 14~15mm dia) aftermarket studs no one had the wheel lock for that I couldn't fit anything on, but that's been an exception not the rule...
Also as I said before, I used to zap bolts on like every other flat rate mechanic out there. I didn't realize how much even a "little zap" overtorqued most of those nuts until I started playing with my Snap-Op torque wrench. Ever since then I've been using my Dewalt 20v 3/8" Impact to get them started (usually gets them about 50~70ft.lbs or so) and then finish them off with the torque wrench. My co-workers laugh at me and tease me about spending $600 to do tire rotations (I use it for a lot more than that now), but seeing as how my Dewalt can easily remove an 80-90ft.lbs torqued lug nut and most of the cars that come in I need to bust out my Snap-On 1/2" Impact Gun to get them off, I'm surprised we don't see more broken/stretched studs. Not to mention it only adds about 1 minute or two to my usual routine and makes me feel better at the end of the job to see that little green LED bar light up.
Yea, I dread when taking my vehicle to get tires put on, because they ALWAYS screw up the wheel torque even when I get them to note it on the service order. One guy actually had the gall to argue with me that when they zap the lugs on via a big 1/2" impact, then just go around and "click" the torque wrench with no movement of the nut, that means they're properly torque. It just means you have OVER the required (and maximum) torque on the nut. :wacko:
My new BMW E70 has M14 wheel bolts (not studs), and calls for 101 ft-lbs. Had to do the rear brakes, so I took the right rear off - felt like about 101 ft-lbs, as my Craftsman cordless impact zipped them right off. The rear left, it wouldn't budge them. Neither could I budge them with my 175 lb ass hanging off the end of a 2 ft breaker bar!!! I thought about getting my IR impact out, but I decided to get an idea of the torque on them via a breaker bar. I ended up putting a 6 ft aluminum tube over the breaker bar and then putting a solid ~150 lbs out about 4-5 ft out. Amazingly the bolts didn't look stretched via a thread gauge, but I imagine there's a little if you put it on a comparator. I'll probably replace them at some point, but they thread in smoothly into the hub.
I'm sure the last mechanic to take that corner off just wailed on it with an impact thinking "more is better, let the next guy deal with getting it off."
Atlanta_man
New member
I like the prices and selection at the Disc. Tire places but have yet to get them to get the torque OR air pressure right whether buying tires or getting the 5,000 mile rotate.
But it's no big deal to fix it myself. Irks me that I can take 'em in with correct (door decal) pressure and they 'fix' it for me.
I'm talking five cars and a couple dozen visits given all the family cars I take care of.
Some of the wheel nuts are on so tight that it is a big deal to get them off...carefully since I've got no impact driver to quickly break them loose.
But it's no big deal to fix it myself. Irks me that I can take 'em in with correct (door decal) pressure and they 'fix' it for me.
I'm talking five cars and a couple dozen visits given all the family cars I take care of.
Some of the wheel nuts are on so tight that it is a big deal to get them off...carefully since I've got no impact driver to quickly break them loose.
AusTex4x4Sport
Member
I have an 06 4x4 Sport Edition and just bought aluminum wheel adapters/spacers from eBay (4 PC Toyota 1 25" Thick Hub Centric Wheel Spacers Tacoma Tundra 4 Runner Black | eBay)
The instructions in the posting say to tighten the lugs to mount the adapter to 120 ft.lbs, and the same for the wheels to the adapters. I don't want to snap hub studs or adapter studs, or damage my wheels, so I'm reluctant to use their recommendations for torque. Anyone have experience with this that wants to offer a suggestion?
Thanks
BlackWorksInc
New member
Well I'd ask them if they will warranty the studs if they break because they are asking for higher than stock torque measurements...
AusTex4x4Sport
Member
Thanks, but could you define "ant" lug?
nevada
Senior Member
i know this is a bit old, and I see that most people are condemning the techs who worked on it last..
but, what lug wrench were you using?
if its the 45* factory wrench provided, its very likely they broke because you were using it wrong....
Are you talking about the new Tundras with 5 lugs? Because I have the split-spoke aluminum wheels from an '04 Tundra that I'm torqueing to 83 ft/lbs.
Also, I would've guessed the torque is based on the strength of the lugs, not the wheels. Do the Tundras with aluminum wheels use different lugs from those with steel wheels?
BlackWorksInc
New member
New Tundra with 5-lugs
