Throttle Position Sensor.....?

Would it be worthwhile to scavenge a good one from a scrapped truck in the junkyard to keep around as spare parts?
 
So, how does one calibrate a 4 wire TPS then ? Is there a target impedance to measure on original sensor that one tweeks the new unit to ?
 
So, how does one calibrate a 4 wire TPS then ? Is there a target impedance to measure on original sensor that one tweeks the new unit to ?



That could be an encoder, resolver, or stepper motor rather than a resistance based 3 wire resistor.

The drive by wire throttle body’s I’m pretty sure are stepper motor driven. And no feedback is required to know position. A 100 step motor would have 100 positions between fully clock wise and fully counter clockwise.


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01 4Runner just threw P1120 code

Aaron,

I am having issues out of my 2001 4Runner as well and we need to change the tps (89452-35030). How did you put a throttle body from a 2000 on there? I would assume you had to change the wiring in your truck somehow to use the 3 pin connector rather than the 4 pin. Basically im wondering how in the world you got the setup to work.

Thanks,
Brandon

Hey,
So reviewing this thread and having had my throttle body thoroughly cleaned, the P1120 code came up again, as well as intermittent loss of pedal/power responsiveness. Should I just have entire throttle body replaced (if I can find it!) or just replace both the TPS and the APPS??? What did you ultimately end up doing to your '01?! Appreciate your response!
Thanks
Diane aka ladydi4unner
:help:
 
FWIW, my 2002 has this all-in-one throttle body. I had similar symptoms as the thread starter. Throttle lag, surging and eventual TPS codes thrown.

I bit the bullet, ordered one from Toyota for $625 (lots of on-line Toyota dealers sell at a discount) and it solved a host of issues. The car drives like it did when I got it new in 2002. No laggy throttle response. Transmission shifts are at the appropriate points and smoother. Pinging is eliminated. Idle is better. No surging with the AC on. It is amazing how different this car is. No more TPS or IAC codes which I was getting before.

For me. It was worth it.

I don't see how you can clean these things properly without opening them up. The IAC is integrated and just cleaning the large TB opening is not cleaning the IAC (or the TPS).

I plan on taking my old one apart to look at what's going on inside. But I have a feeling that, once opened, even though I might be able to clean the IAC ...the TPS is the Achilles heel. Once the TPS is shot you need a new TB.

-Mike
 
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found replacement TPS

Parts Geek is the only place I could find that sells the 4 pin TPS by itself. I did have to take it to mechanic to get it positioned correctly as I had difficulty getting it aligned properly but they had no issue doing so and it's back to running fine now and check engine went off.

W0133-2744128 | Partsgeek.com
 
Parts Geek is the only place I could find that sells the 4 pin TPS by itself. I did have to take it to mechanic to get it positioned correctly as I had difficulty getting it aligned properly but they had no issue doing so and it's back to running fine now and check engine went off.



W0133-2744128 | Partsgeek.com
Good info to know as that's probably the only place your find a TPS for 01 and 02. :)

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Parts Geek is the only place I could find that sells the 4 pin TPS by itself. I did have to take it to mechanic to get it positioned correctly as I had difficulty getting it aligned properly but they had no issue doing so and it's back to running fine now and check engine went off.

W0133-2744128 | Partsgeek.com

THANK YOU! I bought one for a backup. Looks like they are indeed now making them available. This came in an AISIN box, 4 pin looks correct.

I am going to test out the resistance on it and see if it matches up with the new TB that is on my car and the old one that appears to be shot even after I tried to clean it.

-Mike
 
Sorry to revive an old thread, but I don't have enough posts to create a new one.

In the manual, the diagnostic procedure indicates that you need to check the resistance between the top and bottom pins of the 4-pin sensor. I got P0120 yesterday, and tried to check my TPS this morning, but realized that it's the 3-pin, not the 4-pin.

With the 3-pin sensor, should I still be measuring the resistance between the top and bottom pins? The reading I'm getting between those two pins isn't in the 1.2-3.2k ohm spec in the manual, but the measurements between the other pins do fall in that range.

Thanks!
 
Sorry to revive an old thread, but I don't have enough posts to create a new one.

In the manual, the diagnostic procedure indicates that you need to check the resistance between the top and bottom pins of the 4-pin sensor. I got P0120 yesterday, and tried to check my TPS this morning, but realized that it's the 3-pin, not the 4-pin.

With the 3-pin sensor, should I still be measuring the resistance between the top and bottom pins? The reading I'm getting between those two pins isn't in the 1.2-3.2k ohm spec in the manual, but the measurements between the other pins do fall in that range.

Thanks!

Being lazy, I got a new OEM TPS, popped it in and the P0120 disappeared and hasn't returned (months later). Sorry - I can't answer your question, though.
 
[MENTION=620204]jlevers[/MENTION] Here is the test procedure from a Haynes manual for 3 pin TPS on a 5vz-Fe 3.4L and probably all 3 pin TPS on this Gen as they do not differentiate between 4-6 cyl for this procedure. Mine tested fine but had dropout readings between 10-20% on the Scangauge throughout its range 10-75%, I expect heat and vibration will change these readings and difficult to test under those conditions, OEM was $100CAD so I replaced the original TPS, drives much better.
 

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Great, thanks to both of you -- I think I'll just buy a new one, because as you both said, they're not crazy expensive but they are hard to test.
 

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