Thunk thunk at end of braking?

[bigtimeweb]

I noticed recently that at the end of my stop - a slower stop, not a jam on brake stop - that there is a thunk thunk thunk thats coming from the drivers side - I thought front, but today listening to it again I think its rear.

Had both rear axle seals replaced last spring, and a differential service in the end of June last year. No 4 wheeling thats been done since then except for engaging it monthly for a short bit.

I only hear it when I'm in the end of my stop - under 5mph.

Only other thing thats been going on is my front O2 sensor went and in the process the trac and vsc were disabled. I was slow replacing it - maybe been a month or so since it first came on. I only drive the truck about 50 miles a week. It was during this period that I noticed the noise the first time although honestly I drive with the radio on a lot and its not so loud as to over power that.

O2 sensor finally ordered and replaced this afternoon. Went for a test ride still audible thunk thunk at the end of a stop.

Anyone have any ideas?

 

[Viking97SR5]

Vibration?

If there is a slight hum or vibration at top speeds... maybe a u joint. It just clunks right at end of stop. maybe the last 20 - 100 feet of stop. U-joint at transfer case made this noise for me.

 

[empty403]

I think I have a similar issue on my 4th Gen - mine has maybe 2 thunks. I was told to grease the slide yokes and universal joints. If you have slide yokes only grease until you see the slide yoke slightly move! Grease the Universal joints until you see the grease come out. Search for this service and you should find the same issue that others have.

 

[bigtimeweb]

If there is a slight hum or vibration at top speeds... maybe a u joint. It just clunks right at end of stop. maybe the last 20 - 100 feet of stop. U-joint at transfer case made this noise for me.

Thanks, Viking and empty! not familiar with "slide yokes" ?

And while we're talking grease....does anyone know of a nice map of all grease fittings?

 

[Viking97SR5]

U-joint.

Probably beyond needing a shot of grease if it makes audible clunking. Mine was worn very thin. $24 for a new aftermarket u-joint if you tackle it yourself. Just make sure you get one with grease zerk. As long as you are under there, grease every zerk you can find.

 

[cj80cruiser]

If you have slide yokes only grease until you see the slide yoke slightly move!.

Are you referring to the possiblity of damaging your T-case?

 

[bigtimeweb]

Are you referring to the possiblity of damaging your T-case?

Yeah I just read it can bind if you over lube it AND...I found this!

4Runners.org - Lubing Your Driveshaft

 

[cj80cruiser]

Yeah I just read it can bind if you over lube it AND...I found this!

4Runners.org - Lubing Your Driveshaft

I've said it quite a few times as it was a well known problem or possiblity of being a problem in Landcruiser forums...with that said, it seems the opinion here is that it doesn't do the same thing on our 4runners and the shaft will allow the grease to slip by without causing damage.

 

[bigtimeweb]

I've said it quite a few times as it was a well known problem or possiblity of being a problem in Landcruiser forums...with that said, it seems the opinion here is that it doesn't do the same thing on our 4runners and the shaft will allow the grease to slip by without causing damage.

Dunno...I just read a thread here or at Yota about it giving someone problems. I'm just going to give it 5 squirts and come back in 1k miles.

now to find the bestest of grease!

 

[blcktpgsr]

And while we're talking grease....does anyone know of a nice map of all grease fittings?

...Or this one. I used to hear that "thunk" sound everytime I come to a stop or coming from a stop, did it finally gave up on me because it just isn't there anymore.

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[bigtimeweb]

...Or this one. I used to hear that "thunk" sound everytime I come to a stop or coming from a stop, did it finally gave up on me because it just isn't there anymore.

Powered by Google Docs

thats even better, thank you!

Although this is for the earlier 3rd Gens....and specifies 2 different greases I thought I read somewhere that I could use one single grease on my 02.

Does anyone see an issue with a multi purpose NLGI #2 Grade moly fortified grease on the entire driveshaft? And do I need to be looking for something that exceeds a certain temp range?

 

[empty403]

4Runners.org - Lubing Your Driveshaft

Thanks for the link. I just performed the drive line lube on my 4th Gen Full-time 4WD and the thunking noise is now gone. I used AMS oil Series 2000 Synthetic Racing Grease NGLI#2. Being a white grease it's easy to see when you've displaced the older black grease out. I was also told by my mechanic friend to put enough grease in the slide yoke until it slightly moves. I put about 9 pumps (2 hand version) into the rear and didn't see it move so I left it put 6 pumps into the front slide yoke. I think the rear should need more anyways since it's larger. It is best if you have the pistol style or pneumatic grease gun as you'll need to push the connection hard enough so the grease forced into the zerk instead of just coming out of the sides of the connection as it happened a few times. I'm not sure how often to grease the drive line but I do see a lot of grease that gets spit out from the slide yokes especially the rear.

 

[bigtimeweb]

I actually only half did it and still have the thunk...presumably because the two in the middle wont let the grease in, and I got frustrated. Anyone know a good easy way to get those fittings freed up?

 

[empty403]

I actually only half did it and still have the thunk...presumably because the two in the middle wont let the grease in, and I got frustrated. Anyone know a good easy way to get those fittings freed up?

I never tried this but try spraying it with Liquid Wrench/WD-40 and let it soak for a few minutes, clean it up and try again. Also, push the grease hose fitting into the zerk fitting while pumping the grease gun - may need a 3rd hand.

 

[Viking97SR5]

Probably beyond needing a shot of grease if it makes audible clunking. Mine was worn very thin. $24 for a new aftermarket u-joint if you tackle it yourself. Just make sure you get one with grease zerk. As long as you are under there, grease every zerk you can find.

I still think the u-joint needs to be replaced:shrug:

 

[bigtimeweb]

raising the dead.

Finally gave in and went to the dealership today. It was a brake adjustment!!!! They adjusted my rears a while back, so they did it for free

and Viking... I love those tires...

 

[BTO]

raising the dead.

Finally gave in and went to the dealership today. It was a brake adjustment!!!! They adjusted my rears a while back, so they did it for free ..

What did they adjust? The rears again? There's nothing to adjust on the fronts.

 

[bigtimeweb]

They adjusted them in the past because we had routed the cable wrong on one of them, and I could tell something was wrong...but I swear that was a year ago or so. The thunk did seem to be coming from the rear and it was only when I slid slowly into a stop, which I normally do all the time.

Brakes seem much tighter on the pedal, but I didn't have a complaint about that. I swear I have this psychological anomaly when I come out of the dealership and I feel like my truck is bullet proof, tighter steering, better handling, taller standing.... /sigh. I love my truck.

I didn't ask a ton of specific questions because he did it for free for me. I suspect it was probably the expander arm clicking maybe not keeping the shoes in place?

I'm planning on a long haul out to the Bay Area, and wanted to get everything checked and that fixed for peace of mind. Was prepared to drop a load half expecting them to say you need new cylinders, and walked out with a $73 bill for fluids, tires and the once over.

Count me happy.