Tie rod pullers
- Thread starter Morania
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THatfield
New member
I picked up a dorman brand one at AutoZone for about 14 bucks. However I found that it is a hair bit to small, so my ingenious dad took his dremel to it and he took off enough material so that it fit snug. Only took 15-20 minutes to "modify". I'm sure there are others that fit (maybe even a pitman arm puller will work better) but I had already bought that one so we figured it was worth a shot to see if we could make it work.
THatfield
New member
I believe you can also use a pickle fork, however from what I understand that method is most likely to damage the tie rod and require its replacement.
good luck!
Konkordmusk
New member
I've had great success with simply smacking the taper a few times with a bfh.
a pickle fork does damage the boots. I got this years back for working on a bmw, worked for my tie rods on my t4r
one side popped fast, one side took some extra love taps from a hammer, with the tool
3/4" Forged Ball Joint Separator
however did not work on the yota ball joint....too narrow
one side popped fast, one side took some extra love taps from a hammer, with the tool
3/4" Forged Ball Joint Separator
however did not work on the yota ball joint....too narrow
dwmckeehen
New member
Most auto parts stores have pullers you can "rent" for free. I know O'Reilly's does. I just don't use pullers often enough to justify purchasing them.
Between the tie rods and the lower ball joints, I had to use two different sized pullers and the pickle forks to get everything separated and removed. I was replacing them, so didn't care about the damage.
Between the tie rods and the lower ball joints, I had to use two different sized pullers and the pickle forks to get everything separated and removed. I was replacing them, so didn't care about the damage.
fblainen11
New member
I just used the generic auto parts store puller. Worked fine. Do not use a fork.
Morania
New member
Yep. I don't mind buying a tool that I might need a time or two, but I don't want to buy a whole kit just to get the size I need. There's a number of items under there that need attention. Ball joints and probably tie rods.
I have a full set of forks and I'm with you. If I'm renewing the parts, what do I care about the old parts?
Morania
New member
The forks are hard on the gear but most of my jobs are complete replacements. I just responded to a fork comment about my past behaviors. I'll try to graduate to pullers so I won't be such a caveman under there. Never really good to beat and hammer your way through a job.
D Farms
New member
I had the same problem with the autozone puller. in the picture the center part is clearly milled out wider, when I got it, it still had the marks from being forged and wasnt machined at all. I took it down to the lab and milled it out myself, and I just keep it in my truck just in case. I even made an adapter to make it work on the upper ball joints.
yota_addict
New member
This was recommended for my Landcruiser FJ60 but I ended up using on my 4Runner and worked well. Was a tight squeeze but worked. On Amazon for $30 or so I think.
Asaspades93
New member
I bought one from autozone that didnt fit, the one from napa works great though and was only about 20ish
I've never used a puller on my 4R. I put a jack under the bottom ball joint and lift the tire just slightly (this supports the ball joint). Remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end and loosen the nut to just above the top of the threads. Smack the nut with a large BRASS hammer. A steel hammer will cause damage. If you live in the rust belt, make sure to soak it down with PB blaster a day before.
And for me at least, it's very satisfying to pop it off with a couple of good hits with a 3lb hammer!
