tie rod replacement

R

runnerguy

New member
Had the runner at the dealer today for a service and it was pointed out that the passenger side inner and outer tierod is bent. :bash:

800 bucks for parts and labour is pretty steep. I can get both parts for like 150 bucks at the local parts store.

Anyone done this and have any tips? Or a link on removal etc...

just unsure how the inner one comes out of the rack
 
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Seems pretty steep to me. I think it can be a PITA, but you can save some big bucks. There are plenty of links to the Factory Service Manuals on the web.
I can email the FSM pages of the rack and pinion and the pics of the tie rod parts. Let me know if I can help.

Here is a link for the Tacoma, pretty much the same as the 4Runner:

http://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech/jowie_psboot/jowie.htm
 
Thanks for the reply. A member here sent me some info already.

Job is done and it took a 1/2 hour to do. Super simple, I just cant figure out why the dealer wanted 4hrs to do it.
 
runnerguy said:
Had the runner at the dealer today for a service and it was pointed out that the passenger side inner and outer tierod is bent. :bash:

800 bucks for parts and labour is pretty steep. I can get both parts for like 150 bucks at the local parts store.

Anyone done this and have any tips? Or a link on removal etc...

just unsure how the inner one comes out of the rack
Click to expand...

So it was bent from being in the woods and enjoying...or just a part failure. If so what was the mileage?
 
pretty straight forward to do.

-jack up and put onstands
-remove tire
-remove tie rod cotter pin and nut
-hit on the side of the tie rod mount with a BFH or use a pickle fork. keep hitting it hard, eventually it'll pop out
-pull boot back from inner
-bend the 2 tabs that are in the rack back
-unscrew the inner rod from rack( i used a pipe wrench to do this)
-reverse order to reassembly, use a zap strap to hold the boot back on

Runner doesnt wheel at all, i think it bent from a pot hole on the road.

HTH
 
My problem started when my 98 failed inspection for lower ball joints.
OK have that on, BUT in the process I screwed up the tie-rod end with fork shaped puller. BAD idea. As above I just needed a BFH (hammer) to knock it loose.
NOW the problem is removing the tie rod end..
the line: -unscrew the inner rod from rack( i used a pipe wrench to do this)

JUST unscrew the tie rod end?? you have to be super man huh?
I can't do it, NOTHING works. I am using 2 adjustable wrenches. I don't have a life so I cannot get enough torque on the things.
Will I have to get it towed to finish the job?

HELP Unscrew the tie rod... HOW?
 
hpuffen said:
My problem started when my 98 failed inspection for lower ball joints.
OK have that on, BUT in the process I screwed up the tie-rod end with fork shaped puller. BAD idea. As above I just needed a BFH (hammer) to knock it loose.
NOW the problem is removing the tie rod end..
the line: -unscrew the inner rod from rack( i used a pipe wrench to do this)

JUST unscrew the tie rod end?? you have to be super man huh?
I can't do it, NOTHING works. I am using 2 adjustable wrenches. I don't have a life so I cannot get enough torque on the things.
Will I have to get it towed to finish the job?

HELP Unscrew the tie rod... HOW?
Click to expand...

remember ones left hand thread and ones right hand

good luck
 
I re-red my post.. I do have a life, just not a lift!

yeah drivers side.. lefty loosy, righty tighty right?

I took my son out and we thought deeply about that.
the drivers side nut on the tire rod should go left to loosen..
correct?

(always in doubt when things don't work)
 
hpuffen said:
I re-red my post.. I do have a life, just not a lift!

yeah drivers side.. lefty loosy, righty tighty right?

I took my son out and we thought deeply about that.
the drivers side nut on the tire rod should go left to loosen..
correct?

(always in doubt when things don't work)
Click to expand...


yes lefty loosy righty tighty, but on tie rods there is both. It makes it easier to adjust at the alignement shop.

If it wont go the proper way try and crack it loose the other way.

And yes it should goto the shop for a wheel alignement but you can do your toe set with a tape measure.
 
yeah when the car failed inspection the guy said it would need alignment after lower ball joints were done.

further notes.. I sense failure on the tie- rod, I just cannot get it off.
BUT
I went to change the ball joint on the passenger side, much easier this time, BUT I found the top of stabilizer link broken off.
can't figure how to upload the pic.. anyway.. something else to do.


Toyota dealer said $200+ to replace both stablizer links.. whiskey tango foxtrot?
that looks easy, I think i will go with lower cost for short term. The $ for these fixes is adding up this weekend.
Tires $700
ball joints $85 x2
tie rod $80.. but can do that now looks like.
I hate to have the thing towed and have my mechanic do it, but I just don't see a way around it.
 
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