Time for front end suspension component replacement.

xcmountain80

New member
On the list of PM items to do this year is the front ends suspension bits, some items nearing 300K (UCA, LCA bushings) I feel while in there it would be a good idea to replace them. Upper and lower ball joints, upper and lower control arm bushings, top plates on the and strut assemblies. The sway bar bushings are in good shape as are the inner and outer tie rods at least to my knowledge. Can the ball joint be pressed in and out in the driveway given I rent a puller and small bearing press? The upper and lower control arm bushings sound like they might be a huge pain but I’ll give it a shot. Anyone venture down this road themselves? I've read a few things here and there the UBJ looks easy but nothing much on the LBJ or UCA,LCA bushings.

A
 
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BajaTaco did a great write up some time ago but it doesn't address the actual replacement of the UCA LCA bushings. At the time of the write up it is possible UCA bushin were not available (I haven'te found them OE but have found them from aftermarket sources none being Energy Suspension sadly).

http://bajataco.com/tech/control_arms_01.html
 
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You can do the upper ball joints witha rented puller, though I think a 3 jaw might be easier. Search around here as some one just yesterday of today posted a link to a walkthrough for this.

For the LBJ, lots of guys have done that, not much to it. Lots of info on it, so keep searching there... Don't worry if you don't have a walkthrough though, it's just 4 bolts, the TRE stud, and the LBJ stud. Get new bolts when you do this, they aren't that much, and definitely worth it.

For the CA bushings, I have seen at least 1 walkthrough, so keep searching and you will find it.

Use google for these too as there are great walkthrough's on other forums. Also, there are often you tube how-to videos that are really helpful, so you might try that too.
 
I recently did both my upper and lower ball joints. I also bought the new bolts for the bottom, but didn't need to.

Honestly, it really depends on how much rust you have under there. If they come off without too much trouble, they can be re-used.

That being said, they aren't expensive to buy, so it's really up to you.....
 
I'm gearing up to do poly UCA and LCA bushings...not sure which of the upcoming weekends i'll choose to actually tackle it, but when I do I'll try to take some pictures.

From what I understand the LCA bushings will be worse than shutting your sac in a car door, repeatedly, so we'll see how it goes...
 
I bought AC Delco LBJ's and Inner/Outer Tie Rods. Total cost was less than 200. I have not done the upper BJ's yet because they appear to be in great shape. We will see after I put a few more miles on with the lift.

The AC Delco LBJ's came with new bolts, so that is something to consider.

If you've got 300k on the original Tie Rods then they are definitely worn and need replacing. It's real easy to check if they are bad, just unbolt to outer TRE from the LBJ and lift up the tie rods. If they fall, they are bad.
 
Well using Moog LBJ, OE UBJ's, ES control arm bushings, and top plates, total was $290 with shipping through ebay. Now I need to decide if I should go back with 295/75/16 Nitto TG's which I get about 55-60K out of or a set of 255/85/16 Toyo MT's tall skinny and no idea of mileage also about $300 more.

A
 
All the parts are almost here, I was under budget until the ebay purchase for a set of “MOOG” LBJ’s ended up being “OE Brand” instead of “MOOG” for $66 (set) with shipping (I know, to good to be true ). Called Toyota and got OE LBJ’s for $170 (set). Paid $92 for Energy Suspension LCA bushings which turned out to be from Whiteline which from some research is heavy into the tuner world. Moog top strut plates were $48 ea. On ebay with shipping. The UCA’s were $402 shipped from Fat Bobs (drop shipped from SPC). The Toytec ½” spacers to replace my crumbling 3/8” top out spacer was $21 shipped on ebay. Ended up $20 under budget which isn’t great as I pride myself finding the best deal. This wasn’t including an alignment or renting the puller. Labor will be completed by me so that’s technically free.
I haven’t found a good walk trough for removing the LCA bushings, and I opted for the lower UCA kit (4Runner) instead of the complete UCA kit (Tacoma) because the outer shells are already on the poly bushings in the 4Runner kit and doesn’t require you to re-use them. I foresee having to beat the crap out of the stock ones so just trying to plan ahead.

Aaron
 
All the parts are almost here, I was under budget until the ebay purchase for a set of “MOOG” LBJ’s ended up being “OE Brand” instead of “MOOG” for $66 (set) with shipping (I know, to good to be true ). Called Toyota and got OE LBJ’s for $170 (set). Paid $92 for Energy Suspension LCA bushings which turned out to be from Whiteline which from some research is heavy into the tuner world. Moog top strut plates were $48 ea. On ebay with shipping. The UCA’s were $402 shipped from Fat Bobs (drop shipped from SPC). The Toytec ½” spacers to replace my crumbling 3/8” top out spacer was $21 shipped on ebay. Ended up $20 under budget which isn’t great as I pride myself finding the best deal. This wasn’t including an alignment or renting the puller. Labor will be completed by me so that’s technically free.
I haven’t found a good walk trough for removing the LCA bushings, and I opted for the lower UCA kit (4Runner) instead of the complete UCA kit (Tacoma) because the outer shells are already on the poly bushings in the 4Runner kit and doesn’t require you to re-use them. I foresee having to beat the crap out of the stock ones so just trying to plan ahead.

Aaron

Are you doing the suspension too, or what is the top plate you mentioned? Do you mean the top hat on the strut? Cause you could probably bum a set off anyone here, that's what I did. Free is better than paying!

You lucked out that you couldn't get Moog LBJ's. Moog stuff is overrated IMO, and on something as critical as the LBJ, you don't want to skimp. At $66 for a pair, they probably would have broken and left you with a possibly totaled rig, or at very least, a much bigger bill.

What do you mean by the lower and upper bushing kits? I thought there was just the one energy kit for the tacoma and that's it, no 3rd gen 4runner kit.
 
Are you doing the suspension too, or what is the top plate you mentioned? Do you mean the top hat on the strut? Cause you could probably bum a set off anyone here, that's what I did. Free is better than paying!

You lucked out that you couldn't get Moog LBJ's. Moog stuff is overrated IMO, and on something as critical as the LBJ, you don't want to skimp. At $66 for a pair, they probably would have broken and left you with a possibly totaled rig, or at very least, a much bigger bill.

What do you mean by the lower and upper bushing kits? I thought there was just the one energy kit for the tacoma and that's it, no 3rd gen 4runner kit.

The top plate is a spacer I have an original Bamachem 3/8" composite that is dying. Replacing it with a 1/2" Toytec spacer. Replaced the strut support (the 3 bolt plate that are bolted on the strut they are a wear item and new it best).

The "MOOG" LBJ's that I was sold were not they were the " OE Brand" branded LBJ's which apparently are know to fail. The difference in price between the MOOG and TOYOTA OE isn't much.

On energy suspensions site there is a kit under the tacoma and a kit under the 3rd gen 4Runner. The tacoma kit is poly and metal centers for upper and lower left and right. The 4Runner kit is the lowers only with poly in metal sleeves with metal centers. This means I will not have to save the shells that I press out or cut out or melt out. The cost was $92 compared to the tacoma $36. I figured I'd test it out and see what happened.

Shocks aren't in the budget and the Bilsteins I have are from SS and should be lifetime according to Bilstein. Springs for a Tundra don't sag or wear all that much. The rear shocks need to be swapped as they have a bit to much bite when the truck is unloaded ( will replace with Bilstein 7100 custom valved).

I'll take pictures along the way.

A
 
Pics

Pics would be great as I plan to attack this job in a couple weeks, I will be doing my steering rack as well. I plan to purchase all my items from rock auto.
 
Helpful links for REMOVING upper CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS ON 4Runner / Tacoma AND INSTALLING THE SPC/ LR UCA'S
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FL9iEqqRmS8

Helpful links for REMOVING LOWER CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS ON 4Runner / Tacoma.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FL9iEqqRmS8

Tacoma Suspension - Control Arms

Lower Control Arm Bushing Removal - TTORA Forum

| Repair Guides | Front Suspension | Lower Control Arms | AutoZone.com

'Redneck" lower control arm - LCA Bushing Press - Tacoma World Forums

I will likely be having a local shop press these out and the new ones in but we will see how it goes. Hoping for a tear down and rebuild in a day (plus alignment.

A
 
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So far today,

LCA removed and dropped at the machine shop $80 well spent to press old out new in.

P5205113.jpg~original


Slightly moist 5100 pass side.

P5215117.jpg~original


Not so moist 5100 drive side

P5215118.jpg~original


3/8" out 1/2" in.
P5215123.jpg~original

P5215124.jpg~original


1/2" Toytec Spacer ON.
P5215125.jpg~original


Aaron
 
Need a favor, I'm not sure the paint I used is going to show well enough to let me know where the alignment or camber bolts should be. Anyone with close to 3" front lift want to chime in withhan a couple photos of where they should be so I can get to the alignment shop.

Thanks.

A
 
Need a favor, I'm not sure the paint I used is going to show well enough to let me know where the alignment or camber bolts should be. Anyone with close to 3" front lift want to chime in withhan a couple photos of where they should be so I can get to the alignment shop.

Thanks.

A

Don't go by pictures, it'll be different vehicle to vehicle, and since you replaced your bushings, just start from scratch. Give yourself an alignment.

Get a straightedge of some sort (I used a level) and lay it flat against your wheel. Measure from one wheel to the other in both the front and back for toe, and adjust your TRE nuts until front to back measurements are the same.

For camber, lift the front wheels as far as you can of the ground, and do the same thing with the straight edges sticking down, but measure the distance and the end of the straightedge and right next to the tires, and adjust until they are the same.

These methods should get you pretty close, certainly well enough to get you to a tire shop for a proper alignment. I got my toe to within 0.1deg, camber was still in spec.
 

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