Time to change tires...yippee

Hayn4R

New member
I took my 4R into get serviced the other day and they basically told me i need four new tires. I currently am running the stock dunlops and to me, it looks like there is still enough meat on the tires to last at least another month or two. I only have 23k miles on this tire....how long do these tires last??? Visually they dont look bald, but the tech said the alignment is off and they wont do alignment until I get new tires.

I dont know if they are serious or if they just want me to buy new tires from them (Firestone Revos.....junk) was the best they could offer me.

Nontheless, it might be time to start looking at the next course of action. I have two plans:

1) Just buy new tires. ($800-1000)

2) add a 3/2 cornfed with some 285 tires ($2500-2700)

I have been looking at the Mickey Thompson M/T's but the wifey wants the A/T's b/c more practical and saves on gas.....A/T's still look like a street tire to me.

The Nitto M/T's look pretty nice.

Please let me know which option to choose and which tire you like and why???
 
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Hayn4R said:
I took my 4R into get serviced the other day and they basically told me i need four new tires. I currently am running the stock dunlops and to me, it looks like there is still enough meat on the tires to last at least another month or two. I only have 23k miles on this tire....how long do these tires last??? Visually they dont look bald, but the tech said the alignment is off and they wont do alignment until I get new tires.

Huh? What? I am confused by your dealer's response...something is not honest with your dealer. I think that those Dunlops would last longer than 23k miles...unless you have abused your 4runner, which caused your alignment to be off, and thus resulted in premature death of your tires.

I would get a 2nd opinion...i would go to your local tire store...Discount Tire is pretty good. Don't tell them what Toyota dealer said. Just ask them to rotate your tires or how much longer your tires would last.

Or you can look at the tire wear bars and see if you are in need of new tires: http://www.expertvillage.com/video/12073_overhaul-tire.htm

Does alignment REQUIRE good tires?? I always thought that alignment KEEPS your tire in good shape/wear. So, the toyota tech can align your 4runner with or without bad tires.
 
IF you are wanting new tires, then i would get the lift THEN the tires. Because if you get the 285-series tires now, then you will have major rubbing issues.

If you are going to get new stock tires now, then lift it later...you will just be wasting money because after a lift, you will need new bigger tires.

If you want M/T tires, then check out my post here: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showthread.php?s=&threadid=22027

HOWEVER, my opinion is what i posted above...get a 2nd opinion.

Good luck.
 
yeah they confused me too. I will get a second opinion and see what they say about my tires and alignment.

I dont abuse my runner, but I may have thrown the alignment off which might be prematurealy killing my tires. Even though, I didnt see why they wouldn't align my tires no matter what condition it was in. I went to Firestone. I will get my second opinion at either Lex Brodies or Goodyear. Not too many places by where I live.


I really want to lift my 4R since i have to change out my tires anyways. Do you think $2500-2700 is too much for a 3" lift and some 285 Mickey's? I am keeping my sport rim no matter what.

I really want to lift it 6" but they quoted me about $6-7000 for this mod.

My friends brother offered to install the lift for me (he is very mechanically inclined) and he has the tools. Is the 3/2 cornfed lift easy to install. I am trying to find the write up someone did that included pictures so I can print and show him. Anyone know what thread this is?
 
Hayn4R said:
yeah they confused me too. I will get a second opinion and see what they say about my tires and alignment.

I dont abuse my runner, but I may have thrown the alignment off which might be prematurealy killing my tires. Even though, I didnt see why they wouldn't align my tires no matter what condition it was in. I went to Firestone. I will get my second opinion at either Lex Brodies or Goodyear. Not too many places by where I live.


My friends brother offered to install the lift for me (he is very mechanically inclined) and he has the tools. Is the 3/2 cornfed lift easy to install.


1) Alignment with new tires can be easier. The wear pattern can affect the reading. The best way to align with used tires is to take it in just before it needs a rotation. The rear axle tends flatten out and minimalize abnormal wear patterns. If you have the shop rotate just before hooking up the alignment tools that gives you the best shot at getting a good, accurate alignment.

2) Spacer lifts are pretty easy for someone with a good mechanical background. It's very easy to pull the ABS wires so warn him. I would wait for that and then align...

:cheers:
 
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CJ3Flyr said:


1) Alignment with new tires can be easier. The wear pattern can affect the reading. The best way to align with used tires is to take it in just before it needs a rotation. The rear axle tends flatten out and minimalize abnormal wear patterns. If you have the shop rotate just before hooking up the alignment tools that gives you the best shot at getting a good, accurate alignment.


Damn Chris...you're becoming the local tire tech expert!! :)
 
Thai said:
Damn Chris...you're becoming the local tire tech expert!! :)

Nah, I worked during high school and through college. Because i was a stubborn punk there was a break between the two:bash: I worked part-time in a small town, do-all service station. We sold tires, had a front-end machine and I loved doing alignments. Why? I have no clue. I got pretty good at them and liked it though. When I started college I'd go back to the service shop and work summers... For last couple of months in High Skoool and for a while after that I worked at an overhaul shop/AC Delco/PPG distributer in CT. I mixed paint, sold parts, rebuilt alternators, generators, starters, mags, carbs etc. It was all very 'old school' but the principles remain very much the same:D

Everybody loves to go off about the new, high-tech. If you understand the old stuff it's just an evolution of that and pretty easy. Now, I will say early 80's Ford VV carbs, that was PFM if and when it worked:lmao: Actually the most complex cars, IMHO, were those early '80's half carb/half-injected smogged out POS's.
 
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If you get the 285's and stay with stock rims then you are probably going to need to get wheel spacers to eliminate some of the rubbing.
 
Get the biggest Cornfed or Daystar lift. Get wheel spacers, either Allpro or Spidertrax. Get the 285s and prepare yourself to do a little trimming. Be prepared for the looks you'll get when you go BIG!
 
$800 = Tires (5)
$200 = Spider Trax wheel spacers (set of 4)
$850 = OME Lift with springs & shocks
$60 = alignment after lift

Total = $1900 (YMMV)

You do the suspension install, and you don't need a spring compressor. You will need a floor jack, jack stands, and an 18" 2x4.
 
i really cant wait to go big...but I have to...too much mula for me right now.

I called my local 4wheel parts store to get a price quote on Mickey Thompson MTZ in 265-70-17. Four of them installed on my stock rims were $1140.

Damn that is ridiculous!!! I guess I need to find another tire that I like.
 
There is the 255/75R17, a 32.1" tire. No mods needed; but I would have an alignment done, and increase the caster. The BFG M/T that is Jeep specific, run about $100 each. ($400). If you bought a fifth tire, they do fit in the "spare" location.

You can use 275/70R17 (32.2") tires, without the expense of a lift. If you want, you can use a leveling spacer in front suspension for a 1.25" lift ($40). I ran mine without a lift, for a couple months. This also helps figure where things will rub, at full-up suspension travel.

To use the 275/70R17, you will need to do:

1) Front end alignment, with maximum caster available. (moves tire forward - $50).

2) Remove front mud flaps (free).

3) Modify inner forward fender well. (either trim or move forward - free).

4) Trim lower corner of plastic front bumper cover (free).

5) Wheel spacers are not required; but it does reduce the rubbing on the frame and UCA. (Spidertrax recommended - $200)
 
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CJ3Flyr said:
Photog3's great response should be a banner never mind a sticky:lmao: Great summary...

:cheers:

Well, I don't know if it should get that much attention; but thanks.:)

That was my experience, while moving towars larger tires and a lift. With a 3/2 lift, the 275/70R17 still look good. Going this route, someone could move at a progressive pace, instead of trying to afford everything all at once.

This is the process:

1) Buy and fit 32" tires, with the adjustments listed in previous post.

2) 6 months later, buy springs and shocks (lets say OME), and install yourself.

3) Drive, enjoy, learn and upgrade the 4Runner for a couple years. Possible upgrades: Wheel Spacers, or new UCA's, to increase caster and improve driving characteristics.

4) When the 32" tires are worn out, there will be room for 33" tires, if desired. (285/70R17 or 255/80R17).
 

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