Timing Belt Conundrum

I am just trying to figure out if you have fire on some cylinders or none on all six. Make sure the wiring around the igniter is in tact. You can pull the fuel pump relay to safely check for spark (make sure you ground the plug to metal).

With RPMs your crank signal seems fine.

It almost seems as if the problems may be in the IAC/TPS area. All are plugged in? Plunger works in the IAC (easy to test with a 12v battery)? Check for loose wires as well. Crossing those lines doesn’t make for a happy ending.
 
LittleCaesar said:
I am just trying to figure out if you have fire on some cylinders or none on all six. Make sure the wiring around the igniter is in tact. You can pull the fuel pump relay to safely check for spark (make sure you ground the plug to metal).

With RPMs your crank signal seems fine.

It almost seems as if the problems may be in the IAC/TPS area. All are plugged in? Plunger works in the IAC (easy to test with a 12v battery)? Check for loose wires as well. Crossing those lines doesn’t make for a happy ending.
Click to expand...

I went ahead and replaced all the spark plugs. They all smelled and looked the same as the three pictured above. I did pull the efi relay to hopefully reset the fuel pump in case there was an issue with the IAC(the new one I tried to install, but took out) that was throwing things out of wack.

I checked the plugs on the IAC/TPS and they are both plugged in and I triple-checked the lines going into the IAC to make sure they were correct.

I tried running it again after I changed plugs and thought I had it going, it ran for a few seconds and then started getting rough and the second it tried to increase RPMs it cut off.
 
I believe u left the mass airflow sensor unplugged. if not. Then hold the throttle open just small amount and crank it and see if it runs with the throttle cracked just small amount if it runs then I would check the IAC again u may have something clogged up
 
The symptoms also point towards the crank shafts pulley teeth bent or missing. wouldn't hurt to check for codes to see if its throwing a p0340 code.
 
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Ser1clymb said:
I went ahead and replaced all the spark plugs. They all smelled and looked the same as the three pictured above. I did pull the efi relay to hopefully reset the fuel pump in case there was an issue with the IAC(the new one I tried to install, but took out) that was throwing things out of wack.

I checked the plugs on the IAC/TPS and they are both plugged in and I triple-checked the lines going into the IAC to make sure they were correct.

I tried running it again after I changed plugs and thought I had it going, it ran for a few seconds and then started getting rough and the second it tried to increase RPMs it cut off.
Click to expand...

You aren’t getting enough spark or no spark, basically just dumping fuel into the cylinders. Make sure all the wires are good going into the igniter.

I like where [MENTION=50279]spartacus[/MENTION] was going with his thinking but the only time I have heard the crank pulley teeth getting messed up is when changing out the crank seal. Make sure though none of the teeth are bent. Hand crank the engine over and look for a missing or broken tooth.
 
SilverRidgeRunner1 said:
I believe u left the mass airflow sensor unplugged. if not. Then hold the throttle open just small amount and crank it and see if it runs with the throttle cracked just small amount if it runs then I would check the IAC again u may have something clogged up
Click to expand...

The MAF is plugged in. I've checked all my wiring for being unplugged and fully connected. I tried pressing the gas when cranking it, and as soon as I do it cuts off.
 
LittleCaesar said:
You aren’t getting enough spark or no spark, basically just dumping fuel into the cylinders. Make sure all the wires are good going into the igniter.

I like where [MENTION=50279]spartacus[/MENTION] was going with his thinking but the only time I have heard the crank pulley teeth getting messed up is when changing out the crank seal. Make sure though none of the teeth are bent. Hand crank the engine over and look for a missing or broken tooth.
Click to expand...

I appreciate all the input, it's helped me form a new battle plan.

I checked my ultragauge yesterday and the intake temp is working, timing advance gauge, and there was a second where a code popped up (P1300) but the second time, and the 5 times after I tried to crank the car it went away and hasn't come back up.

1. I'll check all the wiring to plugs, igniter, MAF to make sure everything is intact.
2. If nothing pans out there, I will start stripping things down to check the crank. I saw in an old thread someone had similar symptoms with a broken/missing tooth on the crank. I didn't drop anything, but I did use the bump method to break the bolt loose cuz I couldn't get the pulley holder tool (but now have one). It's possible when breaking it loose a tooth could have broken and I didn't notice it.
 
If you want to test the IAC for proper function, you can use this video.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/agIRNNA-6cs" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
I am still working on testing my electrical. I tested the IAC and that tested fine.

I ended up having to take a break because of feeling frustrated with projects, the current state of things, and we finally had some nice weather; so pulled the splitboard back out and went into the backcountry with my wife.

I'll hopefully get the electrical tested today, if I can fix the broken lead on my multimeter (of course that would happen when I haven't used it in months).
 
Lesson learned

When you do a big job like timing belt than you should have not worked on throttle body because now it messes you up where the problem lies, note to myself also :)
 
different vehicle but my old fox body had similar issues when the mass air meter calibration messed up. it was not factory but worth checking. i chased it for a loooooong time.
 
Update

Warhead said:
When you do a big job like timing belt than you should have not worked on throttle body because now it messes you up where the problem lies, note to myself also :)
Click to expand...

Yes, hindsight is always 20/20. I've been kicking myself for that this whole time.
I did make some progress however.
I finally got my new multi-meter and was checking electrical, and everything seemed in good order so I proceeded to strop everything down again to confirm timing again and check for a possible broken tooth on the frank pulley. Low and behold,
7eMHMNh.jpg

I'm hoping this is my only problem, but will find out after I get the new pulley and bolt installed. I have no idea how that happened or how I missed it. I did see that the tooth was hidden by the belt when everything is at TDC.
 
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Ser1clymb said:
Yes, hindsight is always 20/20. I've been kicking myself for that this whole time.
I did make some progress however.
I finally got my new multi-meter and was checking electrical, and everything seemed in good order so I proceeded to strop everything down again to confirm timing again and check for a possible broken tooth on the frank pulley. Low and behold,
7eMHMNh.jpg

I'm hoping this is my only problem, but will find out after I get the new pulley and bolt installed. I have no idea how that happened or how I missed it. I did see that the tooth was hidden by the belt when everything is at TDC.
Click to expand...

That will do it. :party:

Hope your next post equates success.... :bigok:
 
mtbtim said:
Yep, that's your problem right there. OP, I'm guessing to get the timing gear off you did a little prying?
Click to expand...

You're right. I thought I was careful taking it off and I thought I inspected it after I took it off, and before I put it on. Obviously a missing tooth points to the contrary.
Now that I'm about to redo my timing belt job, I have a couple questions:

1. Is there a way to compress the tensioner on the car so I don't have to take it off? One of the bolts is rounding, so I would have to take the A/C off in order to get at it cleanly.
2. I assume that I need to get a new crank pulley bolt even though it was new when I put the new belt on?
3. I'm also assuming that I can reuse the timing belt that I just changed? I don't need to worry about it being compromised from taking it off and putting it back on?

Once I get everything installed I'll update the thread (hopefully ending it with a successful conclusion).


I really appreciate the help from you [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] and [MENTION=69868]LittleCaesar[/MENTION] for all the suggestions and feedback, and of course everyone else that offered advice.
 
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