timing belt failure

[delta265]

Just replaced the original timing belt, water pump, and thermostat today on my 99 runner with 156k on the clock. The only reason I decided to do it was Im going to Mammoth tomorrow and I'd hate to break down in the mountains.

Just an FYI, I found a guy who did the whole job for $396 cash, the dealer wanted 908!!

 

[notrayray]

Hope none of you Kenny Rogers are in the fast lane on the freeway when your long overdue belts shred.....also FWIW my water pump was starting to seep at 90,000 miles when I replaced mine.

 

[TheDurk]

My $.02 is that the belts are good for way more than 90K, but it is more important to get in there every now and then to check water pump and crank and cam seals for leaks, and check idlers and tensioner for wear. These belts don't shred on their own; they get killed by coolant and oil leaks, weak tensioners, and bound up WP bearings and idlers. I did the whole shebang this year at 120K, but I scheduled my next one for 210k in around 2018. I'll report back then.

 

[Pikeman]

Like I said mine had no frays or cracks at 185k... but had stretched sginificantly. So unless you actually hold it up to a new belt you would not see any of the standard signs showing that it needs replacement. A stretched belt that lets the tensioner no longer hold tension to it can let it jump a tooth which can lead to damage.

 

[hvguy]

replaced my TB at 210k span the water pump by hand and it seemed ok, same thing with the tensioner. Im currently at 270k and no signs of failingarty:

 

[Specialized]

I'm at 59,500. I went to the dealership thinking the timing belt had to be changed at 60,000. I practically called the guy behind the counter a liar when he said it didn't have to get changed until 90,000 miles along with the water pump.

After reviewing previous post, looks like I have a ways to go with the current belt:banana:

 

[notrayray]

I'm at 59,500. I went to the dealership thinking the timing belt had to be changed at 60,000. I practically called the guy behind the counter a liar when he said it didn't have to get changed until 90,000 miles along with the water pump.

After reviewing previous post, looks like I have a ways to go with the current belt:banana:

Don't forget you're in the 3rd gen section and your 2UZ is an interference engine. :beer:

 

[CO_FlyFisher]

Digging up this old post from the grave. Mine is in the shop TODAY with 169k miles getting changed. I decided it was finally time. It could go longer I'm sure, but I am getting uncomfortable letting my wife drive the kids around in it with the potential of getting stuck somewhere, especially if it happened when I was out of town.

Everytime I've done my oil, I pulled the upper plastic timing cover to inspect the belt. It has looked good even up until now, but since I'm near 2x the recommended interval, I'm changing for the exact reason Pikeman mentioned. T-belts do stretch. I track my gas milage carefully (in and Excel spreadsheet; yes I am an engineer), and have noticed a slight declining slope in the overall milage trend for the last 18 months or so (about 1 mpg loss). I'm guessing that this is from the T-belt stretching slightly, and the ECU compensating for the mechanical timing being slightly off.

The good news is that my mech. is replacing the T-belt, water pump, tensioner and idle pulleys, acc. belts, coolant (required since we're doing the water pump), and also doing a tranny flush/fill (the CORRECT way; will use between 12 and 16 quarts of ATF) and oil change (with my products) for about $850 out the door using Toy parts. Really not too shabby.

 

[Elton H]

mine had the belt changed at 59k but at almost 188k the water pump said ok im done and fell apart which then ruined the belt ..... i replaced darn near everything i i got a awesome kit off ebay for 300... made a home made crank pulley tool ... it wasn't that hard of job and i saved alot of money there's no way was i gonna pay someone

 

[steezemcqueen]

i'm at 179k and as far as i can tell, nothing has been touched. there is no sticker anywhere saying it was done and i know it hasn't been done after 90k. i'm planning on doing the TB, water pump, belts, balljoints, and TRE's around 200k or when it breaks. which ever is first

 

[Elton H]

i hope your water pump last longer than mine

 

[steezemcqueen]

i hope your water pump last longer than mine

me too but i am prepared if it goes sooner

 

[CO_FlyFisher]

Water pump life was one of the reasons I chose not to wait any longer. I was startin' to see a little drip line of dried up coolant during the T-belt inspections. Going to pick up the rig in about 15 minutes.

 

[CO_FlyFisher]

Well, the water pump and T-belt were still in pretty darn good shape, surprisingly. Belt hadn't stretched noticably. Oh well. I prolly coulda gotten at least another 10,000 and 1 more year out of them, but you never know.

Good news is my mech. came in $20 under the estimate, and did my oil change for free (I provided oil and filter). Less than $850 out the door for all the work, including the tranny flush/fill with 12 quarts (turned out it needed it as I thought). Basically, it cost me $300 for what would likely have taken me a full weekend (maybe slightly more) to do myself. I don't feel too bad about that, and it's a nice relief to have done finally.

 

[Blitzkrieg]

I just did the T belt, water pump, idlers, alternator, hoses, etc.. on my 2002 with 93K miles.

You got a righteous mechanic FlyFisher because $850 for all that is certainly very fair. It's a lot of work.

My brother fabricated a crankshaft pulley holder tool with his MIG. You will NOT get the crankshaft pulley bolt off without a tool. Guaranteed.

I replaced the oil cooler hoses also. The U shaped one is prone to failure after 100K miles and if it goes, you will be walking. The two hoses for the oil cooler (the one that goes from the water pump to the cooler and the U shaped one that goes from the cooler to the motor) will run you about $28 at Toyota. You won't find them aftermarket.

I went ahead and replaced the alternator while I had everything off the front of the motor. It was the original and very well may have run another 100K miles but it's a breeze to get to with everything of the front of the motor and hey, whats another $140 when you are doing it right?

Here is the drill on this process to those contemplating doing it yourself:

1) This is labor intensive.
2) You WILL need the crankshaft pulley holder tool.
3) If you are not pretty mechanically inclined, you will probably be better off having it done from a time perspective.
4) I have a press to compress the tensioner. I think one could do it with a good vise but it does take some pressure.

Point I am trying to make is if you have a competent mechanic that will do the T belt and water pump and idler pulleys for like $850, you might want to think about it. I spent probably twice as long doing this as I'd planned, although I could probably do it in half the time now that I've done it.

 

[MTRunner00]

I'm doing my belt now, 286k on the clock. Spoke with original owner, he replaced at 96k as the sticker shows. Then never touched it again.
The belt looks fine, Tensioner is showing signs of wear.
Water pump failed.

 

[ChromeT4R]

How Long Do Timing Chains Last?

the 3.4 V6 has the timing belt which needs to be changed when due. the 4 cyl models have a timing chain which should last the life of the truck without being changed.

I know this is an old thread, but is it true that the timing chain on 4cyl models should last the life of 4runner? I have a 2000 4cyl model with 215,000 miles and I was wondering if the timing chain needed to be replaced soon? Or did Toyota say life not realizing how many miles these 4runners would run with no issues?

 

[brillo_76]

I know this is an old thread, but is it true that the timing chain on 4cyl models should last the life of 4runner? I have a 2000 4cyl model with 215,000 miles and I was wondering if the timing chain needed to be replaced soon? Or did Toyota say life not realizing how many miles these 4runners would run with no issues?

The timing chains are really supposed to be life. Granted, I have changed them in the past if I had engine work to do. If you do decide to change it make sure you use oem or oem mfg parts.

I used auto store parts years ago and I milked my oil. All because the after market time chain tensioner failed. And the chain ground away my aluminum case letting antifreeze unti the engine oil on a 22r 4 cylinder engine.

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[BrockBaker]

Had TB failure at 270k….please HELP!!

New to the forum! It’s awesome there’s such a huge community on here! So having some issues doing a timing belt job. My son over filled his oil(2 qts), drove it for a few days. While driving, lost power and died. He was able to get it restarted and drove another few miles before it finally died and wouldn’t restart. Took off the top TB cover and seen the belt started to split(pics). We tore it apart and we’re trying to TDC and the R Camshaft Pulley will not budge. We were able to get the L Camshaft Pulley and Crank all TDC but nothing further. All fluids were good, no peanut butter oil or antifreeze.

3.4 5vfze SR5 4x4- Manual Transmission

Any ideas on why a single camshaft would lock up and not the other or crankshaft?

Not really a mechanic but inclined enough to follow instructions/videos to do the work.

 

[brillo_76]

Something broken and seized. Might have to pull the valve cover and investigate. Camshafts are not known for seizing.

Be careful with the Camshafts. If you pull the bearing cups, make sure you put the service bolt in and keep track of where everything goes.

Edit. That ripped the belt in half. You have something majorly wrong on that head. Its locked by the looks of that belt.

In the video sticky you find videos links to show you how to remove the pieces.

I never seen a 5vz head do that before.

He didn't suck in water or hydrolock a cylinder did he?

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