Timing Belt Job - Plus?

[BamaDrewski]

I have been gathering all the parts for the timing belt job and intend to change the crankshaft seal and the camshaft seals along with a new water pump, thermostat, tensioner, pulleys, belts, etc.

I am also considering putting in a NEW OIL PUMP (OE) while I am in there AND doing the gaskets and hoses on the OIL COOLER. My rig has 280K+ on her now....

From your experience, once I am into this job, is there anything else you can think of I can do? (I am OCD when it comes to "overkill" on maintenance. Any suggestions - outside of the ones I have mentioned - would be appreciated!) Happy New Year everyone!

 

[nobb]

I've never heard of anyone having an oil pump failure. Is it fairly accessible when doing your timing belt? It's kind of deep in there.

I plan on doing the oil cooler hoses on my next coolant service, but you bringing this up is making my OCD flare up as well lol.

Other things to add: fan clutch bracket, A/C idler pulley, timing cover gasket

 

[BamaDrewski]

I've never heard of anyone having an oil pump failure. Is it fairly accessible when doing your timing belt? It's kind of deep in there.

I plan on doing the oil cooler hoses on my next coolant service, but you bringing this up is making my OCD flare up as well lol.

Other things to add: fan clutch bracket, A/C idler pulley, timing cover gasket

I am changing out all of the pulleys but did not think about the fan clutch bracket......do those go bad?

With respect to the oil pump, it is a PM kind of thing....after 280K+, I figure it couldn't hurt and it is accessible when all the timing belt stuff is off.....

I have the timing belt cover gasket on order as well as the two hoses that go to the oil cooler (Long hose is Part #: 15778-62030) and the short "U" shaped oil cooler hose is Part #: 15777-62020. I already have the two gaskets/seals for the oil cooler.

Preciate the tip on the fan clutch bracket......

 

[LittleCaesar]

As much guff as I give ya about the Liqui Moly, I would just save your money and not worry about the oil pump.

I changed my fan clutch bracket during my TB change. It wouldn't hurt. How is the clutch itself?

AC idler is something else to consider.

 

[ThorInc]

As much guff as I give ya about the Liqui Moly, I would just save your money and not worry about the oil pump.

I changed my fan clutch bracket during my TB change. It wouldn't hurt. How is the clutch itself?

AC idler is something else to consider.

Hey Liqui Moly is good chit...........I run the Ceratec once a year .

 

[nobb]

Keep us updated on how the oil pump change goes. I'm pretty sure those don't really fail...the seals might start to weep but not a complete failure of pumping.

When the fan clutch bearing goes, it's catastrophic. However, it's a beefy enough bearing that you can get a feel for its condition when you have it apart. It would really have to be abused to fail like that.

 

[BamaDrewski]

Keep us updated on how the oil pump change goes. I'm pretty sure those don't really fail...the seals might start to weep but not a complete failure of pumping.

When the fan clutch bearing goes, it's catastrophic. However, it's a beefy enough bearing that you can get a feel for its condition when you have it apart. It would really have to be abused to fail like that.

I think I will add the fan clutch bracket to the list. Does not make sense to do all the TB work and have this crap out on me a short time later.. These rigs are built like a tank but even the FCB will go eventually....might as well change it now.... THANKS!!!

 

[LittleCaesar]

Hey Liqui Moly is good chit...........I run the Ceratec once a year .

No doubt.

Their Motor Oil Saver has gotten my brother's best friend's Dodge Ram 318 to 416k miles without a rebuild. It started smoking some blue smoke something fierce about 250k; he adds the MOS every oil change and no smoke to this day. He is on his third tranny though.

 

[phattyduck]

I can't imagine a reason to do the oil pump. I'd expect internal engine parts (rod bearings, crank bearings, piston rings, whatever) to go bad before it. You also risk making NEW leaks, as you will have to remove the oil pan and reseal it, most likely.

External rubber parts, pulleys, etc. - go for it if you want.

-Charlie

 

[19963.4lsr5]

With all the rust on the 96 it took 3 days to get it apart. The AC compressor part to get the tensioner off sucked. I broke one of the 4 bolts holding it to the big cast mount. Harmonic balancer was so rusty I had to sand blast and repaint it. Woodruff key was cracked in half too. The crank seal was leaking bad so it all needed done.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[nobb]

I can't imagine a reason to do the oil pump. I'd expect internal engine parts (rod bearings, crank bearings, piston rings, whatever) to go bad before it. You also risk making NEW leaks, as you will have to remove the oil pan and reseal it, most likely.

That's actually a very good point. I'd probably just do the oil pump next time the engine gets rebuilt. Oil pump hoses definitely a good idea though.