Timing belt job question

Jumpkix

New member
Hey gents, so I hired a friend to do the timing belt/water pump on my '02 sport. He couldn't get the crank bolt loose, and had to leave since he traveled from out of state.

Since the timing belt parts are mostly removed and assuming he can't come back for a while, would it be possible to pick up where he left off with essentially a pile of bolts? Or should I just take it in to a service shop?

I know, stupid lesson learned :doh: :doh:
 
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So your friend came to Oregon, tried to change the timing belt, could not, and left? Had he ever done one on a 5vz before?

Bite the bullet and take it to a mechanic. Round up as many bolts as possible.
 
Do you have a compressor? Then get an air impact gun and try to loose the bolt.
IS the timing belt is still attached to the crank and cams?
 
If the bolt is so tight than an experienced mechanic gave up maybe it's time for a breaker bar resting on the frame followed by a starter bump.
 
I used a crank pulley holder inserted into the pulley and resting on the frame and ~5 foot pipe on the end of my 1/2 drive ratchet. Even with that it took a little muscle before it broke loose. The mechanics of the job are not that difficult and there are plenty of write ups on here. You oughta be able to tackle it.
 
Pile of bolts? Sounds like your friend didn't leave you in a great situation. If I'm taking multiple things off an engine, like the timing belt job requires, I'll label things, screw bolts back in or nuts back on so there's no guesswork what goes where.

It's sounds like you friend didn't have the right tools or knowledge to get the job done. If you're comfortable wrenching on vehicles, I'd say go for it yourself and finish it. If not, I'd bite the bullet and get it towed to a shop you trust or has good reviews on Yelp.
 
Sounds like your friend left you in a pickle
There videos on you tube that are pretty good
Maybe of you take your time and watch them you can match up what bolts go where
Goodluck with that
 
[MENTION=89421]Jumpkix[/MENTION] I'm not going to repeat what everyone else on here has already said. You can't put spilt milk back in the glass. Lesson learned. If you want some assistance PM me. I have all the tools you need, including the schley tools, and pictures with labels of every bolt that is removed to complete a timing belt job. I have the complete FSM.

Biggest concern is if the belt was removed and the cams were rotated. Put some PB on the bolt now if you haven't already done so.

Couple of situations though:

  1. I've been cleaning my rig for the second day after a little trip I made. I still haven't got to the engine. Also not sure what my wife wants to do this afternoon.
  2. This is huge here. Duck v. Husky? Say it aint so! OMG what am I thinking? Guess we'll find out October 8th!

Seriously, no problem, you're forgiven. I have a lot of Duck fans, most of them own jeeps.

JK!!!!
 

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Yeah, no way around it, that sucks.


You can try and fix it, but as you werent' apart of the take down, I wouldn't.

Get it towed. Sack up the coin.
 
Put a long ratchet on the crank pulley bolt. Set it on the frame. Crank over the engine. Your welcome. ( recommend taking radiator out )
 
Glad I own a manual...just put her in gear and breaker bar the crank bolt on/off :D

You need to make or buy the pulley holder tool. I know the starter method gets mentioned a lot, but how do you re-torque the crank bolt afterwards?
 
Put a long ratchet on the crank pulley bolt. Set it on the frame. Crank over the engine. Your welcome. ( recommend taking radiator out )

Did the same thing with a cheap breaker-bar on my 97 and it worked great. Next to zero effort. I left the radiator in and had no issues.

You still need a proper bought/made tool to re-torqure it to 217 ft lbs.
 
Could be worse. But i used an sst from grimmspeed. Its for subarus but it worked just fine. And online, or napa, AZ, parts store will have a crank pulley holder tool. In a pinch, you can make one super easy, even if you dont have a lazer press mill lathe 3d print machine.

Also, i just did this job today with a helper who sometimes works against me. It wasnt too bad at all, worst part is removing the ac bracket only if changing the tensioner too. 6hrs start to finish. I am not a mechanic but i dont give up, and have aquired a pretty decent set of tools.
#youcandoit!

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk
 
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Did the same thing with a cheap breaker-bar on my 97 and it worked great. Next to zero effort. I left the radiator in and had no issues.

You still need a proper bought/made tool to re-torqure it to 217 ft lbs.

Only reason I said to take the radiator was because first time we did it on my truck. The breaker bar bounced back and broke the radiator lmfao.
 
if you crank the starter to many times with everything disconnected cant you overheat the starter leading to problems when engine assembled?

i only say that cause i did a t belt on a integra and used the starter bump method and it took a couple times and when i assembled everything the starter ended up having issues and read that could be the cause
just throwing that out therere
 
if you crank the starter to many times with everything disconnected cant you overheat the starter

You would have to crank the starter constantly for a long duration of time to overheat it. To loosen the crank bolt you just need 1 quick jolt for a split second so there is no overheating concern whatsoever.
 
My only issue with the "starter bump" method, is that if you don't have the tools to break the bolt loose to begin with, you don't have the tools to put it back to the right torque spec when you're finished.

A good breaker bar and the $60 crank pulley holder isn't really a lot of money to spend to save yourself $1000 by doing this yourself, and doing it right.
 
My only issue with the "starter bump" method, is that if you don't have the tools to break the bolt loose to begin with, you don't have the tools to put it back to the right torque spec when you're finished.

A good breaker bar and the $60 crank pulley holder isn't really a lot of money to spend to save yourself $1000 by doing this yourself, and doing it right.

I offered him my assistance yesterday but he never responded. I would have lent him my tools. I would have gone to Portland. Because he hired a mechanic friend to do the job, leads me to believe he's not comfortable and probably doesn't have the basic tools to do it himself. He's going to end up biting the bullet on this one.
 
I offered him my assistance yesterday but he never responded. I would have lent him my tools. I would have gone to Portland. Because he hired a mechanic friend to do the job, leads me to believe he's not comfortable and probably doesn't have the basic tools to do it himself. He's going to end up biting the bullet on this one.

Probably true. But I find that the timing belt is much more intimidating than it really needs to be. The only tough part about the job is getting the crank pulley broken loose, and the tensioner off/compressed. With the right tools those are both pretty easy, and everything else is pretty straightforward.
 

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