Timing Belt, Radiator, & Oil Pan Project

[soundmanlpte]

Hey guys,

I'm rocking a 98 4runner 3.4 2wd with 229k miles. I've been going back and forth on buying a new car and finally decided to stick it out. This car's got me through 8 years and 100k miles with minimal expense. So I'm gonna try to get it 300k.

So my dad drove down today to help me do the timing belt kit, radiator, and oil pan gasket. So far we got the oil pan done, I had a pretty solid leak. So we got it out and cleaned everything up. Was pleasantly surprised to see very little residue and a fairly clean oil pan for 230k. Then we got the rad out and got all the way to the crank bolt and called it a day. Hoping to finish everything up tomorrow.

Here's my research/questions for tonight:

1. How important is it to change the cam seals? No idea if original but there's no sign of leaks.

2. How do you ensure timing is still aligned? Point crank and cams in the same direction and line up with marks on timing belt?

Also would love to hear any advice on getting this guy to 300k. What else should I be planning to work on?

Thanks!

 

[nobb]

Was your leak mostly from the oil pan? It's a huge pain to get access to.

You might as well change the crank and cam seals when you're in there. After 20 years my crank seal was discolored and hard (but didn't leak) from the heat compared to upper cam seats which don't see as much heat. Also since you'll have everything taken apart, I would also do the oil cooler gasket and maybe those associated coolant hoses. I was surprised when mine came out, the O-ring was hard and disintegrated in my hand.

 

[LittleCaesar]

Change the seals. If this was 2008, I'd say to each his own. Now, don't think twice.

There are marks on the cams that line up with the marks on the backing plate and for the crank the dimple on the gear lines up with the arrow on the block. Do a search and you will find a plethora of good posts covering all aspects of the timing belt change.

Change fluids and filters often enough, consider changing out the radiator if original, and change the front and rear breathers as well. Don't forget to grease the driveshaft if 4wd.

 

[4Runner4Leon]

Make sure things are lined up like this:

 

[soundmanlpte]

Thanks for the info and the photos!

I have been reading through TB belt threads on here constantly. When there's SO MUCH info on such a complex job it's sometimes difficult to find answers to specific questions.

We are changing the radiator. And yes the leak was coming from the oil pan. Worn gasket. Since mine is 2wd, it wasn't as hard as I thought it would be. You just take the flywheel cover off on the back side, then on the front side use a 1/4" drive extension to work around that annoying electrical plastic bracket.

Last thing I've gotta figure out is how to tighten the crank bolt. I'm gonna use the starter bump to get it off, and I have a 250 ft lb torque. Will probably make a 2x4 tool like others have done.

 

[thegipper]

Definitely change the cam seals and front main while you are in there. It's super easy and well worth the 40ish bucks in parts. Lisle makes a seal puller that makes it very easy to pull the seals out. Amazon has them for 12ish bucks.

Just remember that when you put the belt on and get all of the timing marks lined up, once you rotate the crank, the marks on the belts will no longer line up which is normal. As long as the timing marks on the cam gears and crank gear continue to line up, you are golden.

If a cam gear rotates on you, do not worry. Just continue to rotate it clockwise so that the mark lines up again. Make sure that the crank gear does not move though.

I rotated my crank 3 times to be sure everything was timed correctly after the belt was on.

Another tip, if you watched Tim/Seans timing belt video (part 2), they leave the tensioner loose which will give you more room to get the belt on. You definitely want to do that otherwise getting the belt on can be a PITA. You just start the two bolts that hold the tensioner on but do not tighten them down. Once the belt is on, tighten up the tensioner but do not pull the pin yet. This is when you should turn the engine over by hand a few times to make sure everything is lined up correctly. Once you know that it is, you can pull the pin.

Good luck

 

[thegipper]

A homemade tool to hold the crank will work fine. Just make sure you buy the correct bolts to thread into the crank pulley and make sure they are threaded in enough otherwise they will rip out (ask me how I know).

Keep the 2x4 or whatever you are going to use, flush against the pulley. This will keep the bolts from twisting and possibly ripping out.

I believe you need M8x1.25 bolts (I would get grade 8 bolts, or the metric equivalent which is 10.9). Tim/seans video has the bolt size to be certain.

 

[TheDurk]

^^^^All good advice. I used crap bolts and got away with it, but you can fubar your balancer if you are unlucky.^

Also key is put your bolt holes on the diagonal, and leave plenty of wood PAST the hole. Otherwise, don't go crying that your 2x split in half, because it will.

 

[TheDurk]

Make sure things are lined up like this:

Nice pics! I haven't seen these before.

 

[4Runner4Leon]

Nice pics! I haven't seen these before.

Thanks! I took these when I did my timing belt recently, figured it'd provide a nice sanity check at a glance. Sort of "check the box" to make sure everything is properly lined up.

 

[phattyduck]

Thanks! I took these when I did my timing belt recently, figured it'd provide a nice sanity check at a glance. Sort of "check the box" to make sure everything is properly lined up.

Those spring clamps to hold the belt on the cams are a lifesaver too. I use small c-clamps, but the spring clamps would be better.

Edit: A 2WD oil pan isn't difficult at all:

-Charlie

 

[fblainen11]

If you do the oil cooler: https://youtu.be/G6OlHfOyFNU

 

[4Runner4Leon]

Those spring clamps to hold the belt on the cams are a lifesaver too. I use small c-clamps, but the spring clamps would be better.

-Charlie

Yes indeed, Harbor Freight specials .

 

[alumarine]

Those spring clamps are a good idea.
I used small vice grips applied gently to hold mine on the first time.
Unfortunately I forgot to remove them when I rotated the motor and damaged the belt.

If you make a balancer holder the bolts only have to protrude 3/4" past the nut.
If they are too long they will bend. I just used grade 5, they've been fine.

 

[mtbtim]

These videos might help you out.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/vHC46ypHxWc" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/mErd7xoBS9I" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[soundmanlpte]

Alright got the timing belt done. I will post photos later but my dad made a tool to get the crank bolt and we had no issues. The spring clamps and videos y'all shared helped immensely.

However, we were cruising along and get ready to put the new radiator in, and it doesn't fit. Bolt holes don't line up and it's rubbing against the frame. So we pull it out and try the old brackets, same thing. I measure the new rad and the old one and the new one is a 1/4" wider! And it's the Denso that plenty of people have used successfully. It seems crazy to me. We are putting the old one back and I'm just gonna fill with water only until I can find the right one.

Has anyone experienced this? Am I crazy? What radiator will actually fit?

 

[thegipper]

I would double check the part number on the radiator and make sure they sent you the correct one.

I have the denso replacement and it dropped in perfectly.

 

[LittleCaesar]

Take a pic of both the radiators and post a pic.

At least the hard part is finished.

 

[TheDurk]

Those spring clamps to hold the belt on the cams are a lifesaver too. I use small c-clamps, but the spring clamps would be better.

-Charlie

I recommend binder clips, as I posted a few years ago. Pretty sure it's easier than anything mentioned:

Also, no neeed to mess with the tensioner to get the belt on (two bolts). Just loosen the bolt on that top idler (the green pulley) so that it can slant upwards a bit, slip belt on, and then re-tighten. Easy Peasey.

 

[TheDurk]

Those spring clamps are a good idea.
I used small vice grips applied gently to hold mine on the first time.
Unfortunately I forgot to remove them when I rotated the motor and damaged the belt.

If you make a balancer holder the bolts only have to protrude 3/4" past the nut.
If they are too long they will bend. I just used grade 5, they've been fine.

If the HB is on really tight, short bolts have your torque on the outer sheave and you run the risk of separating the sheave from the rubber middle piece and ruining the HB. Correct are long bolts that thread into the inner piece and put no torque on the rubber part. Bolts are cheap, HB's are not.