Timing Belt/Water Pump Replacement DIY

[TheDurk]

The FSM spec and general experience on here is that the jiggle valve should be installed at 6 o'clock.

We recently had a poster who used sealant with the gasket and had it leak. I prefer to use nothing. Mine is leak free after three years.

Otherwise great job and excellent pictures.

 

[athlon450]

For future ref the cam bolts are 81ft/lb and crank is 218ft/lb. Great write up!

 

[kishanSR5]

The FSM spec and general experience on here is that the jiggle valve should be installed at 6 o'clock.

We recently had a poster who used sealant with the gasket and had it leak. I prefer to use nothing. Mine is leak free after three years.

Otherwise great job and excellent pictures.

I've always heard that it should be at 12 o'clock and my 4runner has run perfectly fine and in normal operating temperature ever since i did this service. I could be wrong as shown by the FSM and people who have more knowledge than me. I'm only 20 so I have a lot to learn. It's interesting that that the person had a leak like that. I feel like it should have been fine as long as it was done properly. I feel like it was a personal choice to use the sealant with the gasket. I personally like the fact that the gasket will stay correctly positioned on the water pump while i install it and get the bolts through it, but thats just me.

 

[LittleCaesar]

I was wondering what happened to this thread. A very good job with the pics indeed. I don't know if any other tutorial shows putting the breaker bar against the frame rail and bumping the starter.

Get to changing the jiggle valve when ya have a free hour. Find a torque wrench that goes up to 217ft/lbs since you don't want the crank bolt working its way loose. Otherwise nicely done.

 

[kishanSR5]

I was wondering what happened to this thread. A very good job with the pics indeed. I don't know if any other tutorial shows putting the breaker bar against the frame rail and bumping the starter.

Get to changing the jiggle valve when ya have a free hour. Find a torque wrench that goes up to 217ft/lbs since you don't want the crank bolt working its way loose. Otherwise nicely done.

Yeah sorry I got a little side tracked and just completely forgot about it.
But thanks!

Well if have to drain the coolant in order to do that so unless it causes me any temperature problems down the road then I'm going to leave it. I've beat the hell out of it and the temp has never gone past halfway (knock on wood). And i actually found 2-3 different values for the crankshaft bolt torque the Hanes manual said like 184-185? So that's what I used. I know other places Said 204-205 and then I saw 217 somewhere. I trusted the Hanes manual and it hasn't let me down so far.

 

[athlon450]

185 ft/lb use to be the standard until there were a lot of problems with the harmonic balancer walking off the crankshaft and the timing gear moving and causing timing and ignition problems. Now Toyota recommends 218 ft/lbs with a thread locker applied.

 

[TheDurk]

185 ft/lb use to be the standard until there were a lot of problems with the harmonic balancer walking off the crankshaft and the timing gear moving and causing timing and ignition problems. Now Toyota recommends 218 ft/lbs with a thread locker applied.

I missed that about the crank bolt torque. Actually, Toyota raised the spec with the introduction of MY 1999 as they redesigned the crankbolt. So the spec for the OP's 2002 was 217 ft.-lbs. from Day 1 as spelled out in the FSM. I would join [MENTION=69868]LittleCaesar[/MENTION] and recommend you (the OP) get that right. Haynes ain't gonna buy you a new engine when that HD comes loose and rounds off the nose end of your crank.

See page EM-22 par. 13 2002 FSM attached. Or trust Haynes. Your call.

 

[stir_fry_boy]

I put a thermostat with jiggle valve at 12:00 in my brothers 98'. No issues with 20k mi and towing a trailer from AZ to ME.

 

[kishanSR5]

I missed that about the crank bolt torque. Actually, Toyota raised the spec with the introduction of MY 1999 as they redesigned the crankbolt. So the spec for the OP's 2002 was 217 ft.-lbs. from Day 1 as spelled out in the FSM. I would join [MENTION=69868]LittleCaesar[/MENTION] and recommend you (the OP) get that right. Haynes ain't gonna buy you a new engine when that HD comes loose and rounds off the nose end of your crank.

See page EM-22 par. 13 2002 FSM attached. Or trust Haynes. Your call.

I guess I should get to that at some point then. Whenever I have to replace the drive belts next is when I'll do it. I don't have the crank pulley tool so I'll have to do what I did last time and grip a chain vice grip around the pulley using the old drive belts. Thanks!

 

[catalina34]

I put a thermostat with jiggle valve at 12:00 in my brothers 98'. No issues with 20k mi and towing a trailer from AZ to ME.

You won't see a temperature variance on your temp gauge with the jiggle valve in either position, but I can assure you the coolant temp will be 25 degrees hotter in the 12 o'clock position. I verified this with my scanner. I run 180-185 all the time with the valve in the 6 o'clock position, and over 205 in the 12 o'clock position with no change on the stock temp gauge.

 

[Drcoffee]

That's interesting. I was monitoring my trans temps with an OBD2 app and I noticed that I am running 205* on the coolant temp. I bought the truck with 150,000 on it. The last TB and WP were replaced at 75,000. I have to assume I will find the jiggler in the 12 o'clock position. I couldnt understand why it was running so hot. I will find out in a few weeks when I do the TB and WP now T 196,000 miles.

 

[catalina34]

That's interesting. I was monitoring my trans temps with an OBD2 app and I noticed that I am running 205* on the coolant temp. I bought the truck with 150,000 on it. The last TB and WP were replaced at 75,000. I have to assume I will find the jiggler in the 12 o'clock position. I couldnt understand why it was running so hot. I will find out in a few weeks when I do the TB and WP now T 196,000 miles.

I guarantee your valve is at 12. My temps were always in the 180's before I had my timing belt, water pump, and thermostat replaced at Toyota. I noticed higher temps a few months after I had the work done while I was checking for codes with my scanner. I pulled the thermostat and found the tech installed it at 12. I flipped the thermostat and reinstalled noting an instant temperature drop.

 

[stir_fry_boy]

You won't see a temperature variance on your temp gauge with the jiggle valve in either position, but I can assure you the coolant temp will be 25 degrees hotter in the 12 o'clock position. I verified this with my scanner. I run 180-185 all the time with the valve in the 6 o'clock position, and over 205 in the 12 o'clock position with no change on the stock temp gauge.

Interesting. Wonder why that is? I'll have to have him change it. My thermostat was replaced at the dealer and I run just over 200 with the scan gauge. Wonder if mine is at 12:00?

 

[Drcoffee]

Most cars have the t-stat on the top of the engine. These have it down low on the block. There must be an air pocket that forms low on the t-stat instead of at the top. The jiggler lets air get by the t-stat to help fluid flow. Its definately atypical to be at 6 o'clock but the FSM does say to place it there. It must be because the jiggler when at 12 o'clock is in an air pocket on the hose side and the part on the block side acts like a plug. At 6 o'clock the jiggler is in the coolant on both sides.

BTW my dash gauge shows the temperature right in the middle of the range which is disappointing that the gauge means nothing until steam comes out from under the hood. Just a fancy idiot light by the looks of it.

Does running at 205* affect MPG?

 

[Wrench Slinger]

Thanks for the writeup! I will be going through mine shortly! Going to do a new waterpump, thermostat, tensioner, cam seals and crank seals as well. Always good to see some pictures and know what to expect.

 

[KainDrag]

I put my jiggle walve in the 12 o clock position as well since countless diy tell you to put it there... I run about 208 F when running with my ultragauge... it never goes any higher.

I just changed all my shit 1k miles ago

When I changed my thermostat the valve was at 12 oclock position as well and its been like that since 100k miles.

 

[azcat90]

Darn I used 217 lb feet instead of 218. :wink2:

 

[Drcoffee]

I couldn't wait any longer and started the timing belt, water pump, cam seal job yesterday. The current belt had 120,000 miles on it and my daughter is going back to school in a week. I'd rather repair it here than down at school. Word of warning, this is not for the faint of heart. Most all the bolts were rusted in place, I broke the AC compressor tensioner bolt and had a 4 hour wrestling match trying to get the TB tensioner off because the Ac bracket didn't want to cooperate. The AC bracket was a bear.

Getting back to a prior post, I pulled the T-stat and sure enough the jiggler was at 12 o'clock. That would explain the 205* running temp. SO that will be corrected.

:frusty:
Okay, here is where I need so help. How do you remove the cam gears? Mine seem like they are welded in place. The bolt will not budge. I used the old timing belt and a monkey wrench to secure the cam gear and a breaker bar and pulled until I nearly had a hernia. I have to get these off to change the seals. What's the secret to breaking the bolts free?

Edit.
I finally was able to break the cam gear bolt free by wrapping the old belt around the cam so that the teeth of the gear were filled and then continued to wrap the belt over itself and hooked the loop on the coolant stub. Then with my floor jack handle on the breaker bar, it finally released. Did the reverse to install it using a torque wrench. Not ideal but it worked.

This may help, I found the TB was too tight to slip it into place with the idler pulleys installed. What I did was install the tensioner idler pulley (lower) and left the top one off. My belt had the marks to line up the cams. Using clamps, I held the belt on the cams. Then lined up the left cam to its mark and positioned the belt on the water pump, tensioner and crank. Then installed the top idler pulley. Far less stessful this way. Then turn the crank 4 revolutions to make sure the timing is still correct. Also it helped to back the crank up one tooth to get the belt on.

 

[Drcoffee]

Some quick advice is needed here. I had purchased the parts for this project 3 years ago and assumed all the parts were correct. So while I was looking at the pictures here I noticed the t-stat has 82 C stamped on it. I'm thinking, SOB! Mine had 86 C stamped on it. Why didn't I notice that before I installed it?

That makes it a 186*F t-stat. Its only a few degrees different. Will it make any difference in performance? Should I change it?

 

[LittleCaesar]

Use an OEM one and put it at 6 o'clock. I THINK it is an 82C.

I thought my 30 minutes wrestling with the AC bracket was a long time. But I don't have rust to deal with. A stubby fixed 14mm wrench works well to remove and reinstall.

I didn't take the cam gears off. I didn't have my chain wrench nor a 3/4 inch impact.

I won't even go into how hard it was for me to install my belt. Maybe I will post a pic.