Tips for building a professional looking rear storage drawer setup

jmferg

New member
First off I have seen built thread after build thread of drawers made from MDF, covered in outdoor carpeting, and using standard drawer hinging. I want to go a differently route from a construction standpoint
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I would consider myself a moderately skilled carpenter so I am more than up for the any challenge aside from welding alum. A couple questions here though.
I want to reduce weight.
I see people building the entire setup from the structure, to the drawers, to the top plate all from 3/4" plywood or MDF. In my head see a setup that will be overloading the rear suspension from its empty weight alone.
I want to use a material other than wood. Has anyone built a drawer setup with a Composite sheet material before?
Also, what latches did you with? I would like a simple slam latch that can be opened with gloves on.
Did anyone finish the edges with aluminum angle trim? I plan on doing this to give it professional look that will protect against hits and nicks.

Here are a couple builds I liked for inspiration

My end product will be something that looks professional like a goose or ARB $1000 box yet fits completely flat in my rear cargo are


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I am almost done with mine (I just need to paint the frame). My rig is set up just for camping and exploring so I took out the back seats to have a nice storage & sleeping platform in the back. I had a friend weld up a frame using 1X1 square tubing and bolted it to the existing back seat bolt holes and bolted the back legs to the back holes by the rear hatch. I did not want drawers so I used totes to hold my camp cooking & food that slide in at the back hatch. They are 36L X 17W X 7H. The sleeping platform is 1/2 plywood covered with carpet. The whole set-up weighs less than the seats I removed and if I ever sell the vehicle it can be put back to stock very easily.
 
I'm with you on the aluminum welding, I had some ideas that I just couldn't carry out without that skill . The composites are cool but pretty expensive , 1/2 '' Baltic birch plywood has a good strength to weight ratio . I did use aluminum channel for trim though . Mine's not finished yet as I want add a fridge slide with a cutting board under it . Those slam latches can give a nice finished look on the drawer face but can also limit access to locking type slides . Couple of thoughts on weight savings , cut out the rear carpet . I took out the original rear mat and the carpet and that was slightly heavier than the 3/4 plywood I replaced it with . Second , skeletonize any where you can , like making something a frame rather than a solid piece . <a target="_blank" href="http://imageshack.com/f/pmDU7MsVj"><img src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/922/DU7MsV.jpg" border="0"></a>
 
bolted it to the existing back seat bolt holes and bolted the back legs to the back holes by the rear hatch.

I needed to keep the rear seats but I used the same seat belt bolts with a simple bracket .IMG_2045.jpg

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