Tips to build a professional looking rear storage drawer

[jmferg]

First off I have seen built thread after build thread of drawers made from MDF, covered in outdoor carpeting, and using standard drawer hinging.

I would consider myself a moderately skilled carpenter so I am more than up for the any challenge aside from welding alum. A couple questions here though.
I want to reduce weight.
I see people building the entire setup from the structure, to the drawers, to the top plate all from 3/4" plywood or MDF. In my head see a setup that will be overloading the rear suspension from its empty weight alone.
I want to use a material other than wood. Has anyone built a drawer setup with a Composite sheet material before?
Also, what latches did you with? I would like a simple slam latch that can be opened with gloves on.
Did anyone finish the edges with aluminum angle trim? I plan on doing this to give it professional look that will protect against hits and nicks.

Here are a couple builds I liked for inspiration

My end product will be something that looks professional like a goose or ARB $1000 box yet fits completely flat in my rear cargo area

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[jpachard]

I went with 3/4" plywood for mine and made it level with the top of the wheel well pockets to increase drawer height. I installed L track front and rear across mine so I had a way to secure loads like my fridge. Like yourself, I'm focusing on not adding a lot of weight. I see 150lbs plus for a drawer system empty as a crazy amount and totally overbuilt. I've completed the outside housing on mine and covered it with speaker carpet and it looks great. I haven't built the drawers yet as I'm assessing if I really need them. I was able to pick up some really nice sturdy storage/organizer boxes at the container store which are plastic and see through which I'm going to try out and see if they meet my needs. If not, I'll go ahead and build out the drawers. My initial impression without the drawers is I've got lots of nice useable space that I can access from the front by folding my seats down and rear of course. I'll post up some photos later today so you can see what I came up with. My setup weighs approx 25lbs


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["krax"]

Mine are built from 3/4" for the carcass and 1/2" for the drawers. I didn't weigh it prior to installing it, but it's hefty. No worse than the 3rd row seats that it replaced though. The drawer slides were heavier than I thought they'd be.

The difference between mine and others I've seen are that mine were constructed like cabinets using double rabbet and finger joints to enhance the overall strength.

To save a little on weight and space, the bottom of the carcass is mounted directly to the floor and the drawer slides are offset so that they can share the middle upright piece.

 

[TowMeOut]

Poor man's storage solution

Drawers would be sexy but I'm way cheap. Also, I like the option of being able to take the whole "kit" to where I need it. One bin has overnight gear (BOB, sleeping gear, tarp, clothes, etc.). The other has tools and recovery gear. There are a couple of ammo cans tucked in behind with more tools/gear and plenty of nooks and crannies with various tools. A jumpstarter connected through a charge controller stays topped off all the time sits on one side and some other random gear on the other.

The rubbermaid bins are waterproof and pretty beefy. Stacked they make an OK seat or work table. I just added some cleats right behind the seat to bold down my Hi-Lift. It's not the most convenient spot but much better than having it out in the weather, just waiting to be stolen or rake a groove down my roof when it slips out of my hands.

This is only half inch plywood with plenty of glue/nails and some polyurethane finish. I've had in excess of 200lbs of gear in the bins and elsewhere with another 300lbs of salt/dogfood stacked on top with no complaints. The black stuff is some vinyl "runner" from Lowes. It's got grooves similar to a serpentine belt that help keep the items from sliding around. A pair of turnbuckles run to some eyebolts to keep it locked in place. The front is wedged against the seat backs and the bottom bracket/trim from the original cargo platform. This leaves a little "cubby" behind the seat for an splitting maul, fishing rod, rifle etc.

 

[tb-av]

OP, if you are still looking for ideas....

Penn Elcom - Penn Lightweight Panels

50% lighter than plywood

 

[BlackWorksInc]

I mean wood happens to be the cheapest, easiest material to use. But nothing says you can't use a polymer paneling or even sheet steel/sheet aluminum to make them. The issue just becomes cost.

I think a lot of them are made from what you can find from Home Depot/Lowes because of cost, simplicity, and ease of finding parts.

 

[Sam1Am]

3/4" seemed overkill so I used 5/8" plywood for the top, side- and center-supports. Still plenty strong. (I had planned on making drawers but in the end opted for a couple of plastic "under bed" storage bins - lighter, easier, and less of a challenge to my carpentry skills. And they keep the trail dust and dirt out of my gear.)

The 80/20 stuff might be a viable option, but i've never used it and have no idea of their panel strength, etc.

(My first post! Yay me!)

 

[4runner_Sport]

I think aluminum would be best, lightweight and easy to work with, although welding might be a little tricky.

 

[jmferg]

I think aluminum would be best, lightweight and easy to work with, although welding might be a little tricky.

I would but I lost access to an alum mig setup when I moved.
Really wanted to go that route though...


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[tb-av]

Morelandcompany.com sells ultralight plywood

 

[jmferg]

I bought a 1/2" and 3/4" sheet of hardwood plywood . It's actually lighter and stiffer than traditional plywood.
More expensive ($70 for both sheets).
The 3/4" will be only used the the uprights that the slide rails screw into. Rest will be 1/2" with 1x2" boards as stiffeners

With paint, outdoor carpeting, and rubber diamond tread matting, I will be all in about $275.
In the end I should have something the size of two outback drawers ($1100), just as nice quality, and made to fit the rear wheel wells
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[Khjphoto]

Almost done, don' know how professional; but it is functional. Will post additional photos later. It will function as storage and sleeping platform.

 

[jmferg]

Sucked it up and went with wood.
Hard part done

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[SSDuck8]

I also went with wood due to the fact, as someone already mentioned, both lowes and home depot are about a mile from the house. It was my first time to build anything like this but I figured I played with lego's enough growing up I could do it. needless to say I am pleased and it does what I want it do. The weight isn't too bad, but its just so stinking bulky it requires help getting it in.

 

[Offcamber]

I went a slightly different route. I welded up a steel, square tube frame and then built wood drawers with a wood top plate. The drawer slides and plate mount to the frame. The frame ended up being lighter than expected and much lighter than what I estimated a wood box weighing. The drawers and top plate are 1/2" baltic birch ply which has proven to be plenty strong. The top plate has a cut out for the water can/faucet along with l-track and a fridge slide. Drawer faces and top plate were coated with bed liner.

 

[jmferg]

I went a slightly different route. I welded up a steel, square tube frame and then built wood drawers with a wood top plate. The drawer slides and plate mount to the frame. The frame ended up being lighter than expected and much lighter than what I estimated a wood box weighing. The drawers and top plate are 1/2" baltic birch ply which has proven to be plenty strong. The top plate has a cut out for the water can/faucet along with l-track and a fridge slide. Drawer faces and top plate were coated with bed liner.

Well done, that looks excellent


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[jmferg]

Got done except for the finishing details.

 

[ladywolf]

Got done except for the finishing details.

dude that is clutch!!! love the tie-downs and that rubber molding and the cladding!!!

totally badass!

 

[jmferg]

Got done except for the finishing details.

Deleted


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[jmferg]

dude that is clutch!!! love the tie-downs and that rubber molding and the cladding!!!



totally badass!

Thanks. The top will change.
I have 1/8" black diamond tread matting to permanently glue to the top as well as stainless edge trim for the top.
The gray mat will get cut down and used as drawer liners. I have a j track tie down system to install on the deck.
The turn buckles will get changed out. They make that space almost unusable


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