tired engine, what to do???

toyrunner00

New member
hey all,

i have a 00 limited 4runner with 275,000 miles, it runs great but is getting tired.
Gas mileage and power are really starting to lack.

My thoughts are, do i rebuild it? swap in the same motor with less miles?

or

engine swap, i thought about something different like maybe the 7m-gte from the 3rd gen supra

or

any suggestions???
 
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toyrunner00 said:
hey all,

i have a 00 limited 4runner with 275,000 miles, it runs great but is getting tired.
Gas mileage and power are really starting to lack.

My thoughts are, do i rebuild it? swap in the same motor with less miles?

or

engine swap, i thought about something different like maybe the 7m-gte from the 3rd gen supra

or

any suggestions???

This is the 4th gen forum, but I had a 3rd gen like yours. I'm guessing yours has the 5VZ? That might be an expensive one to replace. See if you can find one used or a cheap rebuilt short block

Or get this:5VZ long block

Putting a Supra motor in could be an expensive chore.

You could also go for a built 3RZ with a turbo or supercharger. I had a lightly modded 3RZ in my 98, not as fast as the 5VZ but it was a nice engine.
 
toyrunner00 said:
hey all,

i have a 00 limited 4runner with 275,000 miles, it runs great but is getting tired.
Gas mileage and power are really starting to lack.

My thoughts are, do i rebuild it? swap in the same motor with less miles?

or

engine swap, i thought about something different like maybe the 7m-gte from the 3rd gen supra

or

any suggestions???

You posted in the wrong section...you should post this thread in this section: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/forumdisplay.php?forumid=80

My guess (totally uneducated) is that a rebuild is probably the cheapest option. That is what I would do.
 
I'd be inclined to rebuild unless I found a T4R that was re-ended with low mileage. There are many good exchanges and some not-so-good exchange engines.

By doing yours you know it's history: oil changes, overheats, run out of oil etc. If you do a direct exchange you're never sure.

That's my 2cents. If you want to 'juice it up' look for a TRD supercharger:D


:cheers:
 
Before I rebuild, I'd check other possibilities: tune-up, catalytic converter/exhaust blockage, etc..

I had a 2nd gen 3.slow and a 3rd gen 3.4L with nearly that kind of mileage and they still pulled like new. I'm surprised that your 3rd gen is sluggish.
 
Another consideration is emissions certs.
In this over regulated day and age, a certain engine/tranny/body/frame combination is certified to pass tests. Something you cook up on your own might not be able to pass inspection.
 
Hey all thanks for the thoughts

anyway to get this moved to the right forum for some reason i thought the 2000 was 4th gen.

since some of you have responded, what would be your "order of importance" for a tune up, what would you do first?

Also how do you feel about bigger exhaust and cold air intake, do they help?
 
toyrunner00 said:
Hey all thanks for the thoughts

anyway to get this moved to the right forum for some reason i thought the 2000 was 4th gen.

since some of you have responded, what would be your "order of importance" for a tune up, what would you do first?

Also how do you feel about bigger exhaust and cold air intake, do they help?

There are a lot of misconceptions about a larger exhaust. If you're exhaust pipe is to big for the engine gases stop flowing smoothly through the pipes and begins to vortex and create turbulence. This means that when new exhaust comes out of the engine it runs into old exhaust that is doing circles (for lack of a better word) because the pipe is too wide, and creates more back pressure. Narrower pipes keep this from happening. If you have the V6 I would say the stock exhaust (which I believe is 2") is fine, but could be helped by replacing the muffler with a quality aftermarket one, but leave the rest the same.

As for intakes, most intakes marketed as "cold air intakes" (K and N!!) are not cold air intakes, they draw air from inside the hot engine bay. The stock intake is a cold air intake, you can follow the intake tube all the way into the fender well, where it gets cold air. Volant makes excellent intake kits that use the same spot in the fender to draw in cold air. If you simply get a higher flowing drop in filter, you will match, if not exceed some of the so called cold air intakes out there. Just be aware that most drop in filters achieve better flow because they have bigger holes in the filter media, so larger grains of dirt may also get through.
 
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Also what gas mileage should i expect with 275k miles
i do have 32 inch tires and am getting around 12.5 mpg and it doesnt seem to matter city or highway
 
toyrunner00 said:
Also what gas mileage should i expect with 275k miles
i do have 32 inch tires and am getting around 12.5 mpg and it doesnt seem to matter city or highway

I'm gonna take a stab at this and say that you should be getting better mileage.

My 98 had 31" Goodyear Wrangler MT/R's and managed 18 city/hwy combined and although it has a 4 cylinder, those tires killed my mileage by about 30%. 12.5 just sounds fishy.
 
Your 2000 is not a 4th gen as already mentioned, but maybe your mistake by posting in the wrong forum was a good idea. You should get a 4.0L V6 from a 4th gen and swap it into your 3rd gen. I don't know if it's been done by anyone else already, but I bet it wouldn't be too much of a problem and you'd get a much more powerful engine to replace your old wheezer engine!
 
Quoting myself from earlier in the thread: "In this over regulated day and age, a certain engine/tranny/body/frame combination is certified to pass emissions tests. Something you cook up on your own might not be able to pass, and in many states, this is now part of your annual inspection."

EH007 said:
Your 2000 is not a 4th gen as already mentioned, but maybe your mistake by posting in the wrong forum was a good idea. You should get a 4.0L V6 from a 4th gen and swap it into your 3rd gen. I don't know if it's been done by anyone else already, but I bet it wouldn't be too much of a problem and you'd get a much more powerful engine to replace your old wheezer engine!
 
Let me try with a few suggestions that I did to my 95' LS, that was tired as well. This could save you a LOT of money and might scratch that itch.

First: go to the dealer and buy TWO gaskets for the throttle body housing. Then, find a buddy with a dremel, and hopefully a flex hose attachement. Then, buy a steel brissle wire bit for the dremmel. Now, take the intake off the throttle body "at which you'll see why you needed that new gasket. Take the dremmel with the wire brush, and clean the butterfly on the throttle body. In addition, this is where the flex hose attachment comes in handy, get inside of the intake and run the wire brush around in there to chew up the carbon build up. When you're done, do the best you can to clear out the loose debrie in the intake left from the dremel. If you can get your hand in there, then take a GOOD rag, and some SeaFoam, soak the rag, and wipe out the intake. Put it back together with the new gasket.

Next: learn how to seafoam the engine via the brake booster line. I'm sure if you search on here, or the internet, you'll find lots of info on how to do it "it's super easy".

Then, after you've seafoamed it, replace the plugs, and if your wires are original with that kind of mileage, I'd get new ones as well. Your call on OEM or not. You know OEM is the right path from the start, but aftermarket could offer some benefits as well "like to your wallet". Might want a new distributor cap as well.

When it's done, what you have accomplished is reestablishing the engine's breathing ability back to new. The seafoam in the intake via brake booster line, will help the valves big time.

When I did this to my LS, with 120k on clock, and 10 years under the belt, it brought that engine back to NEW. It was so powerful after this chore, that I barely had to touch the gas peddle to maintain cruising speed of 80 mph. And when the fall air hit, that cool clean air, that car was on fire with speed! It was awesome! Many older LS, GS, and IS owners do this around 100k, and none have reported anything but fantastic results. I'm a guru on the lexus forum, have been for years, and stand behind my opinion that any new owner of an older high mileage toyota engine should do this!

With most engines, but especially the fine engines from Toyota, four things determine the engine's performance: Air, Spark, Fuel, fluids. When one gets out of balance, you can tell. At 275k miles, I'm willing to bet the farm, that the breathing aspect is in need of some help. I'm wiling to bet spark has been addressed, otherwise you probably wouldn't be at those miles. Fuel has probably been addressed as well "fuel filter". But I doubt the intake has been properly cleaned. Give this a shot "total cost probably $30 at best" and post back. Also, make sure you've got a clean air filter too.
 
I'd confirm the valve lash too... If that's way off you'll lose power and mpg. If you catch it early enough proper adjustment restore some of the missing power/mpg.
 
CJ3Flyr said:
I'd confirm the valve lash too... If that's way off you'll lose power and mpg. If you catch it early enough proper adjustment restore some of the missing power/mpg.
That's something I want to look into on mine when the weather gets warmer. hearing a little tick tick tick that my ears tell me might be a loose lifter, but I haven't had the chance to look at it in detail due to the lack of a place to work on it. I don't think it's been over 25 degrees here on a day off work since I've owned it.

I've looked at that in the manuals I've gotten off the internet, and it looks like a rather involved driveway project. =(

I wonder if the Toyota extended platinum warr. would cover that? I can just imagine them claiming it's a normal wear adjustment, and not covered.
 
My 2cents on valve adjustment

Annoyed said:
I've looked at that in the manuals I've gotten off the internet, and it looks like a rather involved driveway project. =(

It is... Here's my take (not that you asked but:lmao: )

1) We are essentially relying on the valves, followers and seats to wear exactly identically over time to maintain proper clearance in the absence of regular inspection/adjustment.
2) The issue is never a slight tick. It's the one you don't hear; the one that doesn't have enough clearance. This causes the valve to remain open ever-so-slightly. The small gap allows the seat to burn and opens up the gap even bigger causing compression loss.
3) It is a complex DIY. More than hard it's just tedious and requires discipline with timing if an adjustment is required. The other PIA aspect is obtaining shims. You need to measure lash, remove the shim and then get a shim of appropriate thickness to reinstall. Does the dealer have a full assortment is the question to ask prior to taking it apart. Then you need a ride to the dealership to get the shims you need.:bash: IMHO it needs to be tackled on a Thurs in case you need to make a run to the dealer on Friday for more parts. Start on a Sat morning with a parts dept that closes at 1pm and you're screwed.





The dealer does so few I don't know that I even trust them to do it right. I'd almost feel more comfortable finding a high-end private shop that specializes in foreign cars. They stock shim kits. They do it all the time.

I will check mine around 90k 'cause I'm a freak like that. I think anyone shooting for 300k should do it around 90k-140k.
That's my 2 cents.



:cheers:
 
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Annoyed said:
Quoting myself from earlier in the thread: "In this over regulated day and age, a certain engine/tranny/body/frame combination is certified to pass emissions tests. Something you cook up on your own might not be able to pass, and in many states, this is now part of your annual inspection."

Emissions will not be a problem, especially considering that he would be going to a much more cleaner running engine with the 4.0L. The engine itself is designed to run at a much lower level of emissions than his original engine. The ironic thing is that tailpipe emission testing is quickly becoming a thing of the past. More and more states are relying on the MIL light to determine if an engine is operating properly or not. If no MIL is present, it's considered to have a passing level of emissions, even without ever checking the tailpipe emissions.

That said, it would be a great upgrade for a 3rd gen 4Runner with a tired old engine. More HP and less emissions....it's a win-win situation.
 

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