To those with 33's, especially 06-09 4runners...

shiftmx

Member
I mention 06-09 because the fender flares changed and may make a difference. Are you able to fully stuff the 33's in the rear fender without rubbing? I know the rear mudflaps will need to be removed but I do not want to start cutting the plastic back there. I hate rubbing and if this size is too big, I will just get 32's instead.

Please let me know if you have 285, 275 or even 265 and if they rub. I will be putting these on stock limited 18's with spidertrax.
 
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I mention 06-09 because the fender flares changed and may make a difference. Are you able to fully stuff the 33's in the rear fender without rubbing? I know the rear mudflaps will need to be removed but I do not want to start cutting the plastic back there. I hate rubbing and if this size is too big, I will just get 32's instead.

Please let me know if you have 285, 275 or even 265 and if they rub. I will be putting these on stock limited 18's with spidertrax.

I have 275 70 18's, stock wheels with spidertrax. I had to add a 2" bump stop drop bc the tire was hitting the wheel well before the bump stop. Never rubbed on my fenders though.
 
The only place I've ever rubbed with 33s and aftermarket wheels (SCS 17x8.5 -10mm) was at the bottom corner of the bumper where the mud flap is. I ended up trimming down the mud flap to where it was almost gone but it still gave some structure, then ended up having to trim more and more off the front of the bumper cover as I kept rubbing when loaded down. Eventually swapped to the Icon progressive rear springs (and ditched my ToyTec Superflexes), and haven't rubbed once since no matter how loaded down I've had it. Way more spring rate and it's apparent...
 
Thanks for the replies so far. So safe to say 33's are going to rub somewhere in the rear when flexed no matter what?
 
Thanks for the replies so far. So safe to say 33's are going to rub somewhere in the rear when flexed no matter what?

Yes. With the limited 18's and spidertrax at least.
Front: Body mount chop, move fender liner forward, trim some of front bumper, remove mud flaps. Rear: bump stop drop, trim or remove mud flaps. After that, no rub at full flex or full lock.
 
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Yes. With the limited 18's and spidertrax at least.
Front: Body mount chop, move fender liner forward, trim some of front bumper, remove mud flaps. Rear: bump stop drop, trim or remove mud flaps. After that, no rub at full flex or full lock.

I'm ok with trimming a little in the front. My concern was trimming in the back of the 4runner near the rear mud flaps. I'm willing to take the mud flaps off, but don't want to trim on that part of the rear bumper.

You had nothing rubbing or needing a trim in the rear?
 
I'm ok with trimming a little in the front. My concern was trimming in the back of the 4runner near the rear mud flaps. I'm willing to take the mud flaps off, but don't want to trim on that part of the rear bumper.

You had nothing rubbing or needing a trim in the rear?

I did not need to trim the rear bumper. I just trimmed the mudflap (similar to what someone else said above) basically so it just still covers the bumper cavity that's behind it. Alternatively, you can just remove the mud flaps.
 
if going 32s, check out Mastercraft CXTs as an option. i run 235/80/17 out west from dry deserts, mud, rock, to plenty of -10 to 30 F with various amounts of snow and snow types. they seem to be great all around for everything except ice.

i put on an after market rear bumper and was able to modify / add a bracket to keep the rear mud flaps. i still have room for tire chains on all 4 tires.

the fender flares on the rear doors are a design flaw in that they are part of the fender well. my doors freeze shut on freeze / thaw days, especially if it is muddy with a hard frost after. still trying to come up with a solution for this.
 

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