Torch on brake line fittings

[Kyngfish]

Hola,

Just did the Tundra brake upgrade on my truck and I noticed the lines looked a little brittle. Tried Kroil on the fittings, used a flare nut wrench, but the upper fitting on the rubber hoses did not want to budge and were threatening to round..

I've never taken a torch to a brake line fitting before, but I hear that's the way to go unless I want to use vice grips and replace the metal tubing as well as the rubber lines.

I've seen a few threads advising this approach, but I've also seen people talk about exploding lines and etc, and just wanted to get some feedback or advice.

Also, does anyone have any recommendations for an economical torch to buy? Someone I know just recommended getting a cheap propane thingy from HF and calling it a day.

Cheers,
Martin

 

[alumarine]

I can't comment on the pros or cons on using heat on that fitting I'd suggest getting a Map gas torch that can use propane as well.
Map gas is much hotter.

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

Hola,

Just did the Tundra brake upgrade on my truck and I noticed the lines looked a little brittle. Tried Kroil on the fittings, used a flare nut wrench, but the upper fitting on the rubber hoses did not want to budge and were threatening to round..

I've never taken a torch to a brake line fitting before, but I hear that's the way to go unless I want to use vice grips and replace the metal tubing as well as the rubber lines.

I've seen a few threads advising this approach, but I've also seen people talk about exploding lines and etc, and just wanted to get some feedback or advice.

Also, does anyone have any recommendations for an economical torch to buy? Someone I know just recommended getting a cheap propane thingy from HF and calling it a day.

Cheers,
Martin

I wouldn't heat anything up with the fluid in there. Pinch off the hose and remove at the caliper again. Then remove the clip holding it to the spindle. Heat up the the fitting with MAPP gas ( yellow bottle) from HD. Clamp on two large vice grips. ( not too tight or you,ll crush the fittings) on the hose section and metal section. As long as the vice grips stay in place you shouldn't round anything off. Should come off.

 

[tvpierce]

Hola,

Just did the Tundra brake upgrade on my truck and I noticed the lines looked a little brittle. Tried Kroil on the fittings, used a flare nut wrench, but the upper fitting on the rubber hoses did not want to budge and were threatening to round..

I've never taken a torch to a brake line fitting before, but I hear that's the way to go unless I want to use vice grips and replace the metal tubing as well as the rubber lines.

I've seen a few threads advising this approach, but I've also seen people talk about exploding lines and etc, and just wanted to get some feedback or advice.

Also, does anyone have any recommendations for an economical torch to buy? Someone I know just recommended getting a cheap propane thingy from HF and calling it a day.

Cheers,
Martin

The line isn't going to build up pressure and explode -- it has an unobstructed path to the reservoir up top. Think about it, when you replace brake pads and retract your caliper without opening the bleed screw, the fluid is forced up the line into the reservoir.

Any torch would be fine -- like this one.

Yes, MAPP would be hotter, but propane is more than adequate for this job.

 

[Kyngfish]

I wouldn't heat anything up with the fluid in there. Pinch off the hose and remove at the caliper again. Then remove the clip holding it to the spindle. Heat up the the fitting with MAPP gas ( yellow bottle) from HD. Clamp on two large vice grips. ( not too tight or you,ll crush the fittings) on the hose section and metal section. As long as the vice grips stay in place you shouldn't round anything off. Should come off.

Hey, thanks for the pointers. Just not real clear on something, I'm referring to the brake line hose, where it meets the metal tubing at the upper end, so I'm not clear from your instructions how to get the fluid out. Your process would work if I were dealing with the lower fitting on the rubber, but I'm having issues with the upper fitting.

Cheers, and thanks again.

 

[LookAtThatDog]

Why would you have to replace metal lines if you're using vice grips on the rubber lines?

edit: oh the male end is on the metal line and the female end is on the rubber side. I wouldn't give up on penetrating oil and smacking the fitting with a wrench a few times. Tighten first, then loosen. But yeah, you can torch that.

 

[catrains]

you buy a cheap propane torch. the tip must be small so you heat only the fitting . like the bleed screw or perhaps a stud ..

then with the flame small and the point of the flame hitting the fastener you need to remove until it begins to smoke slightly then when you put the wrench on , 6 point wrench , perhaps filed down so the wrench is not with a tapered edge then the fastener will cool down and shrink then it should release. ..

I did this a couple of months ago to remove a caliper mounting bolt.

no need for MAP or oxygen type cutting torches.

fluid will not cause a blow up. this is an open system , fluid will get hot, but the fluid will flow back up to the master cyl..

 

[DK327]

A buddy and I tried the torch without success so I ended up removing the old calipers with the steel lines attached and just got new lines. This is the thread:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ake-hard-line-oem-part-number-equivalent.html

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

Hey, thanks for the pointers. Just not real clear on something, I'm referring to the brake line hose, where it meets the metal tubing at the upper end, so I'm not clear from your instructions how to get the fluid out. Your process would work if I were dealing with the lower fitting on the rubber, but I'm having issues with the upper fitting.

Cheers, and thanks again.

I got you. Yeah I thought you were talking about the metal line going to the caliper. If I were doing it then, I would replace the entire line. Heck, from Camelback, all the metal lines (3 total) from the master cylinder to the caliper, for each side is less than $40. Really not more expensive than buying brake line and bending it yourself, which can be a pain in some places. I think aftermarket rubber lines are around $10 a piece.

 

[fourwd1]

It's not like you're heating this up till it's cherry red or anything.
Just a little, then try loosening it.
And since this is a brake line fitting use a FLARE WRENCH.