Torsen True 4 Wheel Drive?

TeryT

New member
Had a couple questions about the 4th gen V8 4Runner:

1. Is it a true 4 wheel drive? That is, will all 4 wheels get power as needed - not just one per axle?

2. Why doesn't the manual call for the the torsen LS tranfer case to get a LS additive?

Thanks!
 
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1) Yes Torsen is real 4WD. The Torsen is only in the center diff to allow power for front and rear axles. The front and rear axles are open. ATRAC handles the traction for wheels on each axle, to allow forward motion with a wheel on each axle of the ground. However VSC is also in play and will limit wheelspin and ultimately throttle back in mud, sand, snow, ice, etc. That is why you can lock the center diff (Torsen), which also disables VSC to allow maximum traction forward. It works pretty well, trust me I have used it many times now. See in the trip report section.

2)Most LS diffs use a clutch pack of some sorts, however the center diff in the transfer case of the 4R is a gear based LS, and therefore doesn't require any additives.
 
Clicking-Ratcheting Noise?

Thanks!

What would make loud clicks? I was off-roading and got into a sort of a rut at one point, going up hill. It starting making sort of a ratcheting noise like it was slipping, and I couldn't get forward motion. I reversed it mommentarily & then it went forward just fine. May have had the downhill assist on at that point too.
 
Re: Clicking-Ratcheting Noise?

TeryT said:
Thanks!

What would make loud clicks? I was off-roading and got into a sort of a rut at one point, going up hill. It starting making sort of a ratcheting noise like it was slipping, and I couldn't get forward motion. I reversed it mommentarily & then it went forward just fine. May have had the downhill assist on at that point too.
that noise is just the atrac kicking in, so dont worry you will ge used to it.

the thing with atrac is that you need to learn how to use it. just keep your engine going at 2000 tpm or so and it will start braking the wheel spinning in the air and move you forward. but remember to lock you center diff to disable vsc and also allow tq to stay constant between front and rear axles. this makes atrac a lot more effective
 
It starting making sort of a ratcheting noise like it was slipping, and I couldn't get forward motion. I reversed it mommentarily
Just press down on the accelerator to apply more engine power. When a wheel starts slipping and ATRAC starts pulsing the brake to stop the slipping some engine power is lost to heating the brake pad on the wheel that was slipping.
 
Elements of STAR system may essentially stop the wheels

It's worth knowing that in some situations the combination of traction control, stability control, and de-throttling can pretty much stop wheelspin. If you simply don't have enough traction to make any forward progress and are on a sidehill, the system will be alternately braking the two (in 2WD for the multimode systems) or four wheels and doing enough de-throttling to keep you from spinning the wheels and sliding sideways.

It's presumably a protective measure to keep you from sliding into something, but it's not always what you want, especially offroad. These are the times to consider locking the center differential.

I suspect this is more true in 2WD, where the system can more readily sense from the unpowered front wheels that you aren't making any progress. Definitely worth experimenting in controlled conditions.
 

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