tor-redneck
New member
fwd1 why dont you just keep your opnions to your self?:boxing: forums are for reading only!!!:jk:
Toyota 4 Runner stalls at Stop sign/light
- Thread starter hadia
- Start date
I have the FSM. but unfortunately only on my computer. so far I had no option and time to print every damn single file...does somebody has the FSM in one pdf-file? (I'm just on my way to it, but step by step...)
...what is the decel fuel cut circuit about/what is it supposed to do? in what chapter of the fsm I have to look for more details? or do you may have another step by step guide for checking it?know
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still looking for advises about the gaskets. want to prepare as much as possible and as it makes sense. any information?
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...what is the decel fuel cut circuit about/what is it supposed to do? in what chapter of the fsm I have to look for more details? or do you may have another step by step guide for checking it?know
+
still looking for advises about the gaskets. want to prepare as much as possible and as it makes sense. any information?
.
who has experience with changing head cover gaskets at the 3VZE engine - what experiences you had with other gaskets on the way to reach the head covers properly.
of course in general it would be the best to replace all gaskets, can't be wrong. but is it also probably necessary? whats your experience, which gaskets I might can reuse, with which gaskets it's totally not recommended to reuse after had them removed?
of course in general it would be the best to replace all gaskets, can't be wrong. but is it also probably necessary? whats your experience, which gaskets I might can reuse, with which gaskets it's totally not recommended to reuse after had them removed?
tor-redneck
New member
why are you asking us this?
Asking what?
Anyway, I have troubles to get the gaskets on the way down to the head cover gaskets. in detail, not even one gasket is available. It's just oil what I loose, so I decided to not changing the rocket cover gaskets any longer - to risky with the other missing gaskets...
but still the problem with the TPS. I did the check today...
Test 1) 0.9k Ohm
Test 2 & 3) no results
Test 4) 4.54k Ohm
Test 5) 5.46k Ohm
...with Test 2 and 3 no result for the Idle contact, looks like I have to order a new TPS. damn it...
Update?
Hi, I have a 2000 4runner that has done the exact same thing for the last 4 summers. I've spent so much trying to fix it that it almost doesn't make sense to keep it anymore if I can't figure it out.
This will be the fifth summer I'll have to endure the constant dying every time I stop at a light, sign or while I'm sitting in a parking lot (with car in park).
I recently moved to Atlanta (from Knoxville, TN) so it'll be even hotter here in the summer, which means it will definitely be worse. Additionally, the traffic here isn't going to allow me to have my car break down in the middle of rush hour on the interstate without serious consequences....
I didnt see this listed in your post, but my car always IMMEDIATELY starts right back up as soon as it dies. There has NEVER been a time where I couldnt get it to restart (the main reason why I've put up with the inconvenience so long).
Again, it ONLY does it in the summer. It doesnt do it in the morning typically--I have to have driven at least miles. So, it has to be summer time, and the more I drive during the day and the hotter it gets the worse it gets....
As a side note, I have no problems whatsoever in the winter. I've done all the things listed here except check to see if the exhaust valves are too tight...
Did you ever figure this out?? No one in Knoxville knows. Not even Toyota....I even had a friend run it on his dyno machine for about and hour and a half one day and he couldnt figure it out.
Hi, I have a 2000 4runner that has done the exact same thing for the last 4 summers. I've spent so much trying to fix it that it almost doesn't make sense to keep it anymore if I can't figure it out.
This will be the fifth summer I'll have to endure the constant dying every time I stop at a light, sign or while I'm sitting in a parking lot (with car in park).
I recently moved to Atlanta (from Knoxville, TN) so it'll be even hotter here in the summer, which means it will definitely be worse. Additionally, the traffic here isn't going to allow me to have my car break down in the middle of rush hour on the interstate without serious consequences....
I didnt see this listed in your post, but my car always IMMEDIATELY starts right back up as soon as it dies. There has NEVER been a time where I couldnt get it to restart (the main reason why I've put up with the inconvenience so long).
Again, it ONLY does it in the summer. It doesnt do it in the morning typically--I have to have driven at least miles. So, it has to be summer time, and the more I drive during the day and the hotter it gets the worse it gets....
As a side note, I have no problems whatsoever in the winter. I've done all the things listed here except check to see if the exhaust valves are too tight...
Did you ever figure this out?? No one in Knoxville knows. Not even Toyota....I even had a friend run it on his dyno machine for about and hour and a half one day and he couldnt figure it out.
Tps
HI Audiebox,
oh damn timing right now...I'm leaving tomorrow on a 2 month trip, so I can't give you a very detailed update on what I did in the end, and what not... remind me in two month and I can do...
just quick light update:
meanwhile I sold that car and left Australia, but yeah, before it seemed to be fixed - no better said I got it, to avoid the symptom. no more stalling. but, when the engine became "hot", the idle rpm were still quit much struggling (to low and to much moving).
the only thing I worked on was the TPS. so the reason is linked to it somehow. temperature has, why ever, a influence on the idle speed - how and why?? that is the question, that could answer all the problem!
while replaced the TPS, I cleaned the full throttle body and adjusted the idle screw to higher idle again (as did already before, when I couldn't stop it to stall). but the struggling in the idle was still there, just less. so I went back on to the old TPS - no change in behavior compared to the new TPS. from there on the idle was just always still high enough, to avoid the stalling. but the real problem wasn't fixed in my opinion. only the symptom became less. while working on the TPS, it got an adjustment. somehow this made the idle a little bit more stable. just enough to not fall to low, that the engine would stall. ...
ohya right...I even drove for testing a while without connected TPS. same symptoms. so maybe the problem is the connection between TPS and bordcomputer. but to check this, I had neither equipment nor anymore passion! I can also imagine the problem is linked to TPS and that mechanism, which "tells" engines to run bit harder when starting it "cold" to reach better operating temperature. or some resistance in some involved cable wherever changes when becoming hot, as a reason of its age...
more or less I can only suggest to work on the throttle body, check TPS adjustment and turn idle screw so, that in cold condition it's bit higher than the FSM suggests....good luck!!
(P.S.: Sry, for my bad English and missing of many "more-correct" terms. I hope it's to understand...)
HI Audiebox,
oh damn timing right now...I'm leaving tomorrow on a 2 month trip, so I can't give you a very detailed update on what I did in the end, and what not... remind me in two month and I can do...
just quick light update:
meanwhile I sold that car and left Australia, but yeah, before it seemed to be fixed - no better said I got it, to avoid the symptom. no more stalling. but, when the engine became "hot", the idle rpm were still quit much struggling (to low and to much moving).
the only thing I worked on was the TPS. so the reason is linked to it somehow. temperature has, why ever, a influence on the idle speed - how and why?? that is the question, that could answer all the problem!
while replaced the TPS, I cleaned the full throttle body and adjusted the idle screw to higher idle again (as did already before, when I couldn't stop it to stall). but the struggling in the idle was still there, just less. so I went back on to the old TPS - no change in behavior compared to the new TPS. from there on the idle was just always still high enough, to avoid the stalling. but the real problem wasn't fixed in my opinion. only the symptom became less. while working on the TPS, it got an adjustment. somehow this made the idle a little bit more stable. just enough to not fall to low, that the engine would stall. ...
ohya right...I even drove for testing a while without connected TPS. same symptoms. so maybe the problem is the connection between TPS and bordcomputer. but to check this, I had neither equipment nor anymore passion! I can also imagine the problem is linked to TPS and that mechanism, which "tells" engines to run bit harder when starting it "cold" to reach better operating temperature. or some resistance in some involved cable wherever changes when becoming hot, as a reason of its age...
more or less I can only suggest to work on the throttle body, check TPS adjustment and turn idle screw so, that in cold condition it's bit higher than the FSM suggests....good luck!!
(P.S.: Sry, for my bad English and missing of many "more-correct" terms. I hope it's to understand...)
Last edited:
justinmcdonald33
New member
1996 toyota 4 runner 2.7 l
hey i need help, my toyota has 333000 miles which is fine and all but ive replaced the fuel pump, filter,injectors, idle control valve, fuel pressure regulator, plugs, wires, cap and bug, still dies when idleing, i unplugged the tps and it seemed to work a lil bit. Im tired of throwing money into this yota, any help would be awesome and thanks guys
hey i need help, my toyota has 333000 miles which is fine and all but ive replaced the fuel pump, filter,injectors, idle control valve, fuel pressure regulator, plugs, wires, cap and bug, still dies when idleing, i unplugged the tps and it seemed to work a lil bit. Im tired of throwing money into this yota, any help would be awesome and thanks guys
Hi justinmcdonald33, if you read through this thread, I had stall problems when I stopped at stop sign or stop light. No engine code generated, so it drove me crazy for a long time and after $1k of replacing parts, replacing the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor fixed the problem. This is an inexpensive part and easily accessible to replace.
