Toyota driveshaft or rebuilt one locally?

[Honda pc]

Hi guys... got a 2002 toyota 4runner sr5....2wd, 271k miles and got a bad vibration at high speeds... 60 mph +.... and driveshaft looks like original one

things I tried... moved front tires to back,,, no change.

put car on 4 jacks...got under car and move driveshaft, ujoints all around for clunks...GOOD.....all felt good and no clunks or looseness... found some rusty spots on ujoints by the rear connections. ......then put car in neutral spun, nothing noticed......then put car in drive and had wifey run in drive slowly up to 50mph...lol.....lots of noisy vibrations in the shaft, but really not any visible spots of bouncing action...

so took it to local auto guy... he did same thing but only up in air at drive idle speed mode...no high speed... observed and said bad ujoints.... wants $400 for R/R 2 ujoints and no balancing driveshaft... NO to that.

So choice...

1....got local driveshaft shop...R/R 2 ujoints and balance driveshaft...$180... I take driveshaft to him. Spicer brand ujoints.

2....I replace both ujoints..parts cheap and labor me.....looks not hard job

3.....rockauto...driveshaft is around $230...all remanufactured, cardone brand........2002 TOYOTA 4RUNNER 3.4L V6 Drive Shaft | RockAuto

4......this place.....$325 new unit...driveshaft seller...2002 Toyota 4Runner Drive Shaft - Toyota 4Runner Driveline - Free Shipping

5......or toyota parts online order....whole driveshaft at $400 after tax... refurbished? or new? toyota brand ujoints? or whole driveshaft from local rebuilders?? Anybody put in driveshaft from toyota.....good quality???

is this the right toyota part number
1996-2002 Toyota 4Runner Drive Shaft 37110-3D070 | Longo Toyota Parts


I was reading some post that 2wd....you have to replace the whole driveshaft because of some internal rubber bushing deal inside shaft??? true?? and that just R/R just the ujoints is not the fix???

will I be ok,,,if I just replace the 2 ujoints on the driveshaft and put it back in without a balancing....providing I mark line the shaft before removal.

seems like lots of choices...and not experienced in driveshaft not to get shafted....

let me know which options is good.... thanks.

 

[plcfcng]

Is the driveline a 2wd original two piece rubber lined one or a one built from a driveline shop? If it is a rubber lined one then replace it. If it is one from a driveline shop then I would replace the u-joints either your self or at a shop.

I have a 2001 that had a vibration at about 60 to 70 MPH I found the u joints not only bad but the wrong size. the Cross was about 1/8 to short helping to cause the imbalance. So make sure you get the correct u-joints the ones I got from the parts store were the correct box but some one swapped the Dina Spicer joint with a cheaper one in one of the boxes. After getting the correct U-joints I installed them only to still have a vibration less but still there. I moved the driveline into the 4 different positions to find the best one. I was still not happy with the vibration so I used a old school method for balancing https://m.roadkillcustoms.com/how-to-balance-a-driveshaft/ I did it a bit different you can contact me if you want to know how. As far as where you get the driveline from I have not gotten one from rock auto but a driveline shop would be fine.

Putting you 4runner up on stands and spinning it up is the way I did it there are a lot here that don't have enough confidence to do that. I find it much easier to help determine if it is a driveline vibration.:trophy:

 

[Honda pc]

driveshaft looks like factory original.... the rear end connection pc is like a shaft inside the tubing.....Not like the rebuilt units I see where they are one pc welded up to the joint...no slip in splines or rubber units I assume... I cannot find any youtube video of 2wd original toyota driveshaft rebuilding that rear end or how it comes off the main shaft body.... looks like its spline inside...rubber bushings there I guess...

thing is I don't know which one to buy....
from toyota parts which I assume would be the same thing....meaning later one I got to replace the whole driveshaft....instead of just the ujoints/balance.

local aftermarkets is one pc welded right up to the joints. so next time, just R/R the ujoints and put driveshaft back in I suppose.

 

[phattyduck]

The slip for the 2WD shaft is at the front yoke. It slides in and out of the trans as necessary.

Just get a new shaft. You *might* fix it with new joints, but you might not. A solid shaft will be fine for a replacement. Check prices on RockAuto too - I think you can get the 2WD shaft from them too.

-Charlie

 

[Devbot]

My 2 cents: It depends how much a rebuild would cost, but I highly recommend just shooting for a new one. I bought a brand new driveshaft from a fantastic local shop (Drivelines NW) and its beefier and stronger than OEM, slightly longer to accommodate my lift, easier to rebuild (in other words, flush cardan yokes, no half-recessed BS that prevent you from pressing out the u-joints), all for cheaper than OEM - and this is typically the norm for driveline shops, since it's all they do.
Tom Wood is another shop and is famous across 4x4 groups nationwide for incredible work and even better customer service. You want it, he can make it, period. If I had known he was local to me as well, I would've gone with him, he really treats his customers well.
IME I tried to rebuild my OEM shaft myself and for whatever reason it vibrated 100x worse after new u-joints. Not to say a professional rebuild would do the same, just in the end it didn't make sense to not snag a new one, personally.

 

[plcfcng]

Like we said above if it is a original drive shaft like it sounds like then go with a new drive shaft I don't know the reviews on the Rock Auto so that's up to you. Another thing to look at is the tail shaft bushing on the transmission they will wear over time so if it feels excessive or you still have a vibration I would unbolt the transmission tail shaft and get a new bushing pressed in too.:car:

 

[Honda pc]

update... finally got chance to tackle this driveshaft..
I decided to get the toyota factory OEM one for $371+tax--$405... I picked it up and thought it might have been a farmed out rebuilt unit from one of the rebuilt units.... Instead it was new and just like the old one...everything matches... also another reason was I talked to a well know driveshaft rebuilt place who offers all kinds of driveshaft for custom cars, and others...carbonfiber, aluminum and what not, custom sizing... He told me that get the toyota one if I can... the toyota Ujoints are the best...there is no other aftermarket Ujoints that can even compare. Also he said, that most time, the 2wd rubber bushing are still ok, to just put new Ujoints in and balance and ride... He does the repairs no problems... Besides the closes new aftermarket driveshaft was like $300 and was using nepco Ujoints...

so I figure if the factory lasted 271k miles, then another factory unit would be a no brainer... so then I took out the old driveshaft, very easy job.. but did mark the line incase I wanted to rebuilt old one and put back in if emergency. The old driveshaft front Ujoint was fine, freely moving but the back one to the differential case was stuck when moved and can tell by obvious rust all over the connection points... I put new one in, put some threadlock on the bolts and tighten as best tight possible...

I drove freeway and was smooth sailing, got up to 90-100 and no problems..
in hindsight,, I think i could have just replaced the back Ujoints and put back in and would have ran fine....if I was on budget cheap... but I only like to do job once and never come back again...

thanks guys for all the suggestion and help... keeping this 2wd drive alive for wife to drive....somehow she's got in her brain that suv is the car to have, since her friend has one. And she's been bugging me about getting a NEW CRV or RAVA 4.... I don't have $30k to spend for her status symbol when this 4runner will do, besides she's beginning to like it..lol... I am in philosophy of keeping old cars running and spending $$$ on real important things in life, plus I love wrenching on cars.

some pics...everybody loves pics.

 

[phattyduck]

And the 2WD (OEM) u-joints are maintenance free... so enjoy it!

-Charlie