Toytec Aluma?

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Looks like the 2.0" coilovers they used to offer or still do that are built by Sway Away? a 2.0" diameter coilover is a great shock for the money. Rubber bushing for the lower mount is nice for less maintenance and one less point of squeaks.
 
anyone have experience with the Toytec Aluma kit? Did a search and didn't turn up much on here. Guy at Toytec says the shocks were made by Elka.

TTBOSS-4R210ALM - Toytec BOSS Aluma Series Suspension System (10+ 4Runner)

I put the aluma kit on my wife's 2017 SR5P (w/ 3rd row) about 2 months ago, paired with JBA UCAs. The overall ride is excellent, no loss in ride comfort, reduced nose dive while braking a little (I expected a bigger reduction). With the 3rd row, I didn't get the full 2" out of the rear, maybe 1.5". I went back and added an OME 0.4" spacer on the rear drivers coil to try to level the lean (helped, rear drivers side is now only ~0.5" low). No off-roading experience yet, but on-road has been great.
 
Looks like the 2.0" coilovers they used to offer or still do that are built by Sway Away? a 2.0" diameter coilover is a great shock for the money. Rubber bushing for the lower mount is nice for less maintenance and one less point of squeaks.

toytec told me they are made by Elka. I did some google digging and everything I found confirms that.
 
anyone have experience with the Toytec Aluma kit? Did a search and didn't turn up much on here. Guy at Toytec says the shocks were made by Elka.

TTBOSS-4R210ALM - Toytec BOSS Aluma Series Suspension System (10+ 4Runner)

I have 2.5 Alumas up front with the 700lb springs and have loved them ridewise a about 5-6 times offroad since installing around Xmas.

My only warning is on the hardships I encountered on adjusting the ride height / pre-load. I assumed these had a nut and lock nut combo like most adjustable coilovers. These instead have a collar clamp style nut to lock preload. The problem here is that you will almost never be able to loosen the collar bolt and adjust your preload WHILE the coilovers are on the truck.

In addition to them almost always needing to be taken off to adjust we are looking at aluminium threads with a high risk of damage if you don't compress the spring during adjustment. This coupled with the fact that your usual rental spring compressor will not fit on the beefy 700lb springs meant that I ended up needing a shop to do this work. I ended up paying the shop for the price of installing two new struts that I had just installed myself... live and learn I guess
 
I have 2.5 Alumas up front with the 700lb springs and have loved them ridewise a about 5-6 times offroad since installing around Xmas.

My only warning is on the hardships I encountered on adjusting the ride height / pre-load. I assumed these had a nut and lock nut combo like most adjustable coilovers. These instead have a collar clamp style nut to lock preload. The problem here is that you will almost never be able to loosen the collar bolt and adjust your preload WHILE the coilovers are on the truck.

In addition to them almost always needing to be taken off to adjust we are looking at aluminium threads with a high risk of damage if you don't compress the spring during adjustment. This coupled with the fact that your usual rental spring compressor will not fit on the beefy 700lb springs meant that I ended up needing a shop to do this work. I ended up paying the shop for the price of installing two new struts that I had just installed myself... live and learn I guess

If they ARE made by Elka and use the same Elka clamp / aluminum body as my Elka 2.5 Resis, I have had complete opposite results from you. I've adjusted mine multiple times over a week and it's been very easy. They've also been through a very salty WI winter and had no issues adjusting them this spring to account for sag from new skid plates.

My process has just been a shot of WD-40, raise the front, back off the clamp screw 1 turn, and adjust to heart's content.
 
I'm running the Aluma series coilovers. Put them on in December.

Normal highway driving and cruising is like night and day. Body roll is cut significantly. Nose dive is gone. Twisting through the mountains at 75 MPH feels fantastic, whereas it would have been downright scary before. I would have done this for the highway driving experience alone.

I have had the rig offroad several times since installing, but not enough to give a full review due to the time of year I purchased them. Most trails are still closed or impassable due to snow where I typically go. I will say that they have performed great when I have gotten it out there. It doesn't soak up 100% of bumps while doing 40+ MPH on washboard roads, so don't expect anything like that. But it has been as good as I hoped for.

BzMAdMe.jpg


DdRzSFw.jpg


INDt7Lm.jpg
 
If they ARE made by Elka and use the same Elka clamp / aluminum body as my Elka 2.5 Resis, I have had complete opposite results from you. I've adjusted mine multiple times over a week and it's been very easy. They've also been through a very salty WI winter and had no issues adjusting them this spring to account for sag from new skid plates.

My process has just been a shot of WD-40, raise the front, back off the clamp screw 1 turn, and adjust to heart's content.

Im going to give this a shot this afternoon if I can access the collar bolts. About how much pressure did you have to apply to start the rotation? Before I installed mine I had one end in a vice and I couldnt get the collar to budge after following the instructions to a T. Being aluminum Im afraid to really crank on them...
 
Im going to give this a shot this afternoon if I can access the collar bolts. About how much pressure did you have to apply to start the rotation? Before I installed mine I had one end in a vice and I couldnt get the collar to budge after following the instructions to a T. Being aluminum Im afraid to really crank on them...

I can move it by hand with some effort. I find it easier to take a rubber mallet to the pin to get it to spin. 1 full rotation is 1/8" lift/drop for me.

One thing to note.. if it really won't move it's likely the clamp was loosened too much and it jumped threads. So careful how much you loosen that bolt.
 
I'm running the Aluma series coilovers. Put them on in December.

Normal highway driving and cruising is like night and day. Body roll is cut significantly. Nose dive is gone. Twisting through the mountains at 75 MPH feels fantastic, whereas it would have been downright scary before. I would have done this for the highway driving experience alone.

I have had the rig offroad several times since installing, but not enough to give a full review due to the time of year I purchased them. Most trails are still closed or impassable due to snow where I typically go. I will say that they have performed great when I have gotten it out there. It doesn't soak up 100% of bumps while doing 40+ MPH on washboard roads, so don't expect anything like that. But it has been as good as I hoped for.

BzMAdMe.jpg


DdRzSFw.jpg


INDt7Lm.jpg


thanks! surprising to hear that about the highway driving. I was expecting it to be worse being higher.

i'm have a tendency to haul ass on washboard and am kinda wondering if I should go reservoir but dont want to dump 4 or 5 g's into the suspension.
 
I put the 2.5’s on in October or so. Haven’t had any fade on washboards at all. I don’t think the resi’s are worth it or needed.

As far as ride, I couldn’t be happier, switched from 5100’s with dobinsons and these are not even in the same universe.

Adjusting is way easy, I put it up, loosened, and adjusted. Needed to use a pipe once.

These are well worth the money.
 
thanks! surprising to hear that about the highway driving. I was expecting it to be worse being higher.

i'm have a tendency to haul ass on washboard and am kinda wondering if I should go reservoir but dont want to dump 4 or 5 g's into the suspension.

Yeah, I was pleasantly surprised with the highway driving myself. I did have a steel bumper on the stock setup, so that probably made it feel worse than normal in the first place.

From what I understand, reservoirs are only needed if you plan on overheating. So unless you're doing very long stretches of washboard for hours, it's probably not going to help you. Lower tire pressure is your best bet there.

For what it's worth, I did confirm with Toytec that the reservoirs can be added later if you choose, the shock is the same either way and has the connection port in place.
 

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