Toytec Front Differential Drop Kit Problem

hidyho123

New member
Hey guys, so this weekend I installed my Overland Full 2.0" suspension kit on my 4runner and came across a problem after putting on the Toytec Front Differential Drop Kit... When trying to put the skid plates back on I used two of the original bolts for the back of the mid skid and two for the front of the front skid. However, where the mid and front skid plates meet, the drop kit comes with four spacers and longer bolts for the front two on the mid skid and back two on the front skid. I was able to get the front two of the mid skid back on, but when it came time to put the back two bolts on the front skid the new bolts weren't long enough and it looks like another 1/2 spacer would be able to fit on it so the skid plate isn't touching the lowered differential.

My dad and I are thinking about just going to lowes/home depot and just buying two longer bolts and another 1/2 spacer or some washers to use instead. I was just curious to see if anyone else had had this problem or would like to make any suggestions. Thanks and hope everyone has a nice 4th of July weekend!
 
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Same for me

I had the same issue with the Toytec Diff Drop Kit. The front driver’s side differential support is square and not round like the other side. The skid plate is a good inch off the frame on that side after you install the diff drop kit. I just used a nut to fill in the space after the spacer. The screws that also came with the kit are different than the stock self-threading screws in diameter. I ended up stripping out 3 holes before I realized they weren’t getting any tighter. They were holding but not tight. The next time I removed the plates, those screws just slipped in and out of the holes. Now I’m sans plates until I can find some replacements.
 
Last edited:
I'm pretty sure what the OP means by "Overland full 2.0" suspension kit" is 2.0" diameter shocks and not 2.0" lift. That being said, like everyone posted above, ditch the diff drop. It's not needed. :)
 
Lift; static height vs. drop limits

It should probably be clarified that "lift" is a relative term, usually used to describe an increase in "static" or "ride height". However, it is very possible for lift method X to have CV angle issues when lift method Y doesn't, even though they have identical static height. For example, I know I am right at the limit of the CVs at full drop with just a Daystar spacer. A different spring length and/or rate could give me the same static height without the spacers and without as much drop and therefore it would not push the CVs to their limit. CV angle should be checked for binding at full drop with the wheels turned all the way to one side and then the other. Otherwise you do not know for sure if they will bind on the trail or not.
 

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