TPS adjustment and setting

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ClintR2

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Trying to set my TPS on 1992 3.0.

I took the throttle body off and started to test the TPS and set it. To start i have 2 new Denso TPS and the original. Also have a spare TPS wiring harness for so i can put multi meter on easily.

I go to set the TPS and here are the readings that i get.

1992 3.0 engine---
1. VTA - E2---5.96K (Good--this is with throttle closed)
2. IDL - E2---5.96k --the same (should read less than 2.3k with .77MM gauge)

I am way off on the step 2.

tried all the TPS 's to make sure on was not bad. Same readings on them.

I would move the TPS and throttle itself to see if i it changes and goes up, but nothing.

Does anyone have an idea what might be the problem?

Link is the directions i am going off of.

http://www.lcengineering.com/LCTechPages/pdf/Throttle%20Position%20Sensor%20Adjustment.pdf
 
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It is not a new engine. Ther person I bought the 4runner from had it completely off and had been running it without.

I have tried to figure this out for a while and can not get anywhere.

I will try these steps.
 
[MENTION=125934]Griswald[/MENTION]
I used your directions. still the same. no change at all. if i have it connected and go to wide open throttle, there is no change at all. Nothing???

step 1--VTA and E2-- 200-800---- I get 5.92K

for step 2--if i connect IDL and E2--i should get a reading less than 2.3k. I get 5.92K.

step 3--- i use a .85 mm gauge --- i should read open/infinte-- I get 5.92k

step 4 --wide open throttle--i should get 3.3K-10K--- I get 5.92k

No change on any of this. I have tried different wires and nothing...

I have no clue. Maybe the mechanism in the throttle body itself where the TPS bolts on is bad. Maybe there are bad connections in there. I have no idea.

I have tried the different TPS again and nothing. no Change.

Should i try to see about getting a different throttle body and see if this works?
 
Hey, are you sure you have the right tps, not one off a 22-RE?
Is the tps off 180 degrees?
Are you turning the tps far enough?
Have you backed off all relevant screws enough?

Move the tps around 50 times closed, open throttle. Check readings. Might remove some oxidation that can throw off readings.

Or, they are simply both junk. Measure a known working tps for reference
 
So i went to the junkyard and found a throttle body with TPS on it. I connected my harness up to it and Boom! I was getting correct readings. SPOT ON!!

brought it home clean it up. installed it and it started right up and Code went away and was running perfect for about 1 min.

THEN it starting running horrible and the check engine light came back on. This time I started getting a code 14 and 22. The TPS code went away but now this... What gives!!!

I had already replaced the code 22 about 3 months ago. (temp Coolant sending unit)--have not had it pop up until now.
Wiring looks fine on it and Temp gauge is NOT spiked up.

Code 14---I also replaced the ignition coil about 3 months ago.

Only think i can guess is that the ECU is not working properly.

I am going crazy over here...

Any idea on this???
 
It sounds like it ran fine, but once it got a bit warm the computer goes crazy.

I'd test running a new wire from the sensor to the comp to test.

You did replace the coolant sensor, it's on the intake, not near or on the thermostat housing.


https://www.google.de/url?sa=t&sour...BMAB6BAgJEAU&usg=AOvVaw0VTJzWxrN8ZFOD4xbU2nov


Make certain your grounds are good. There is on at the back of the head, one under the ac unit.

Has it ran well before? It could simply be gummed up injectors, and while cold the cold start injector is making it run "fine".

Possibly the cold air bypass valve has one one of the hoses busted. Then, once it closes up, it still lets in unmetered air but the computer flips out.

Replace the oxygen sensor with a denso unit. Run OEM cap, rotor, WIRES and especially the ignition coil.

Report back :)
 
The previous owner told me that i did run good before. When i bought it he said i needed new tps sensor.

i replaced, plugs, wires, rotor, cap, shift sensors, valve cover gaskets , ignition coil , coolant sensor and other things. All items were OEM replacements.

-----------------------------------------------
I disconnected the battery for about 30 min. Trying to reset the ECU.
Went back and ran a test again. no code 14 but still code 22.

I will check the grounds to make sure.

Where is the cold air bypass vavle?

thanks
 
forgot to mention. that i had it running the best i could with out the tps plugged in. ran rich, not Much power but able to get around. figured i would try to get it 100% right.

This is just a trail rig also.
 
Now I am getting all kinds of things going on.
Code 14,22 and 41

Unplug tps while running and no change in engine. No idle up or down.

I think that the ECU has something wrong with it. Just so many random things and I have addressed all the issues.

New throttle body put on today and ran fine for 1-2 min then something changed.
Maybe it had a misfire and all heck broke lose

Only thing I can think of.
 
Go to a jard, get a computer. Bring it back if it doesn't work.

The air idle depends on year, not sure. 22performance has a writeup somewhere.

The early style has two air and two coolant hoses and sits under the intake throttle body.
 
I am planing on getting one tomorrow.

Is is a basic plug and play?

I cleaned the hoses yesterday and they check out.

I will keep you posted on what happens tomorrow.
 
ClintR2 said:
I am planing on getting one tomorrow.

Is is a basic plug and play?

I cleaned the hoses yesterday and they check out.

I will keep you posted on what happens tomorrow.
Click to expand...

Yea. Remove foot well cover, pull plugs, done. Can't connect them wrong either.
A tip: the front screws can be quite rusty, do some WD on it for some days, else they might just snap.

I would replace all air hoses and vacuum hoses. Use the oem stuff, as usual.

Make sure the rubber elbow that connects to the throttle body does not have any crack in it that might let in unmetered air.
 
Went to junkyard to get ecu. Did not have one. Bummer.

While there I got another igniter to test out. Just to see if I had a faulty one.
Got home, installed it and started up. No check engine light. Did not run the best by no light. But engine started to warm up and boom!! Code 22. Coolant temp sending unit.
Strange thing is that seems to work properly. The gauge on the dash shows cold when first start them moves up below 50% on the gauge and stays there when engine heats up.
Does not spike all the way to HOT.

I had replaced it a few months ago. I checked the wire and it looked ok. I pulled the sensor and going to replace it just in case.

Since it seems to be working, although I am getting a code 22, what would be the cause here?

Also with a faulty coolant temp sensor “will it make the engine run really rough?
 
Measure the sensor via youtube instructions.
It's the brown one if I recall correctly, facing towards you, right under the TB.

Checked the coolant for air pockets?
Did you run a can of injector cleaner? Fresh gas?
Timing ok?


The gauge is usually buggy. It will be cold, the jump to mid "instantly". It's usually a GND issue, but worry about that later.
 
I tested out The sensor. I tested and hot and cold water. In Coldwater it would read .89 and then in hot water it will drop down to .25

this tells me that it is working. There must be something in the wiring then.

Does this sound right?

Also attached the picture it the peice that I took out. This is the 1 I replaced they I believe was giving me the code 22.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/YsGTLfNG51mfsEjY7

Is this the right sensor?
 
Last edited:
ClintR2 said:
Went to junkyard to get ecu. Did not have one. Bummer.

While there I got another igniter to test out. Just to see if I had a faulty one.
Got home, installed it and started up. No check engine light. Did not run the best by no light. But engine started to warm up and boom!! Code 22. Coolant temp sending unit.
Strange thing is that seems to work properly. The gauge on the dash shows cold when first start them moves up below 50% on the gauge and stays there when engine heats up.
Does not spike all the way to HOT.

I had replaced it a few months ago. I checked the wire and it looked ok. I pulled the sensor and going to replace it just in case.

Since it seems to be working, although I am getting a code 22, what would be the cause here?

Also with a faulty coolant temp sensor “will it make the engine run really rough?
Click to expand...

Remove the wire. Then it might go into closed loop mode. Does it run smooth when warmed up?


The gauge sensor is on / near your thermostat housing, plugs in from the top.
The engine / computer sensoris the other one one under the throttle body, plugs in from the front.
The do not talk to each other.
 
Update—was still getting a code 22. Coolant Temp Sensor. So I thought what the heck let me change it. I also changed the coolant temp sender b/c it was reading a smaller number when cold with the multi meter. Took them out and replaced with OEM ones and Boom!!!! The code 22 is gone! I thought I was dreaming.
I turned the car off and on about 15 times to check and did not come back.

So strange b/c I was getting all kinds of codes.

Now it is still running rough. Need to get timing right. Idle screw is not adjusting the speed of the idle. So idle is around 300. Tried advancing the distributor and did not work.
Any ideas what I should do to get is idled right?
 
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