Trail Silver Valance!

Rob71

New member
Was wondering what you did to make your Valance black. not sure if I want to do plastic dip :grouphug: I was thinking of Carbon Fiber Black. Anyone did that??
 
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Ive seen people hydro-dip their stuff to look like carbon fiber. Looks kinda tacky to me but do what you like. :hippie:
 
most people either plastidip or wrap them flat black. I wrapped mine in a black camo
 

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I wish I could find a brand new one for fairly cheap. I HATE that the dealer poked holes in my bumper to stick that damn plate frame on...
 
its darker in person, that was a cellphone pic in a garage under weird lights. Ill eventually get around to taking better pictures of it and you can decide for yourself

Do you mind sharing what the cost to do the front and the back?

I think doing it in black or carbon fiber would be the best looks for my white car.
 
How "durable" is the wrap? I am likely getting a new 4R TE next month. The only thing that I'm not crazy about is the darn silver valence on the front.... I'd like to just make it black to match the grill.
 
Was wondering what you did to make your Valance black. not sure if I want to do plastic dip :grouphug: I was thinking of Carbon Fiber Black. Anyone did that??

I did mine with Plastidip and it came out well. The nice part about Plastidip is that it can be removed if you ever want to change it or need to redo it. For the sake of comparison I did the front with the Rust-oleum's attempt to copy Plastidip and from my experience it was way worse (though pretty much the same price). I feel like it didn't apply very evenly so I ended up with lots of runs, which didn't happen with Plastidip. Knowing what I know now, that could have been avoided by doing like 5 to 7 coats, but I was expecting it to be like Plastidip which is good after 3-5 coats. I guess the one downside to a Plastidip type products is that you're pretty much stuck with the matte finish, but I like the contrast to the shiny paint on the rest of the vehicle.

Also in regard to the holes from the license plate mount, I bought a "bumper repair kit" from O'Reilly and it took a shitload of sanding, but if your going to repaint the front valence it's a easy enough to do beforehand (granted you can never return it to the factory silver paint...).
 
How "durable" is the wrap? I am likely getting a new 4R TE next month. The only thing that I'm not crazy about is the darn silver valence on the front.... I'd like to just make it black to match the grill.

I've had it on for about a month and so far so good. I've used a power washer from those self wash car wash places and it didn't come off or anything so I would say pretty durable if its properly applied.
 
Front valance not made of steel

Form follows function in my view.
I think the front silver valance is intended to imitate a steel skid plate, but it's made of plastic which has no resistance to off-road thrashing. I'd like to see a 1/4" aluminum or 3/16" steel plate painted silver. Unfortunately, the cost of stamping that plate into shape would not be cheap. As a less expensive option I could see a bent plate with a top to bottom curve but no turned ends that a good structural steel fabricator could make. The best option may be the SSS front bumper.
 
Here is what I used when I did mine. Have used this product for years. Remove pieces that you want to paint. Scuff shine off paint with a auto body scuff pad. Wipe down part with mineral sprits. Spray 3 light coats of trim paint. Allow 5 minutes in between coats. Dry to touch within 30 minutes. Fully cured within 24 hrs. Matches all other flat black paint on truck. Here is a picture of the product and a couple more of parts painted. Front and rear valance, roof rack rails and emblems. Picture of stripes I laid down on my mustang 8 years ago. Very durable product. Great for spot blending also if needed without repainting piece again. A lot better look then plastic dip in my opinion. Just another option for anyone that is interested.Runs about 16.00 a can and scuff pad is 3.50
 

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Here is what I used when I did mine. Have used this product for years. Remove pieces that you want to paint. Scuff shine off paint with a auto body scuff pad. Wipe down part with mineral sprits. Spray 3 light coats of trim paint. Allow 5 minutes in between coats. Dry to touch within 30 minutes. Fully cured within 24 hrs. Matches all other flat black paint on truck. Here is a picture of the product and a couple more of parts painted. Front and rear valance, roof rack rails and emblems. Picture of stripes I laid down on my mustang 8 years ago. Very durable product. Great for spot blending also if needed without repainting piece again. A lot better look then plastic dip in my opinion. Just another option for anyone that is interested.Runs about 16.00 a can and scuff pad is 3.50

Removing the Valance to be painted is too much for me to do...that is why I was leaning toward wrap.:flamethrwoer2:
 
Hence why there are different models.
I dont think that has anything to do with it... I really think it is just for looks and wouldnt with stand anything more than a minor rub. has nothing to do with model line there are as many SR5s putting in work on the trails.
 
Removing the Valance to be painted is too much for me to do...that is why I was leaning toward wrap.:flamethrwoer2:

I would assume to wrap correctly that you would want to pull the parts also. I have wrapped before and used a heat gun to stretch and smooth out my edges. Maybe there is a new way of doing it? it has been a while.
 

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