Tranny cooler line replacement

[nycfyrman]

So mine are rusting through. I purchased the new ones from local dealer he mentioned that the techs also replace the unions from the transmission itself but I tried to avoid it but think I have to. Anyone do theirs yet? Tips? Tricks? I’m in NY so it’s rusty everywhere but my luck, the frame!

TIA

 

[nycfyrman]

Anyone?

 

[brillo_76]

As rusted as a few of mine are I never had to change the transmission lines. I did have to replace the power steering lines in one and the nipple on the power steering high pressure line. But that was it.

Those 2 Transmission lines run straight back to the transmission on the passenger side. Those should be fairly easy to do provided they come apart at the unions. They are not super high pressure as they are just the coolant lines to cool down your fluid.


I would soak the connections and all the bolts with really good penetrating oil for a few days or a week prior to changing them.

I use Kimball midwest pentratrating oil. However, JB blaster, Wd-40 etc will work.

Are they leaking really bad or starting to seep?

If leaking, make sure you keep your transmission fluid level up with dexron fluid as you do not want to run your transmission low or out of fluid.

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk

 

[sleepydad]

Anyone?

I have replaced mine with both hard lines OEM and done flex lines.

the unions are a biach if they are all rusted up.

after doing the flex line approach I would suggest it's way easier than hard lines. you will probably need new brackets/bolts/cushions, clamps, unions, o-rings. it's not killer expensive but... it not free either.

here is what I did to convert mine to flex lines

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3162709-post2.html

I would suggest doing o-rings for sure, they will leak once you take them off. those old o-rings will be hard as rocks and probably be in bad condition.

this is another view of what the completed to flex line looks like

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3356856-post139.html

the one part of the project that is hard is locating the tube nuts and doing the flare/bubble end on the unions. it's not hard but you need a good quality brake/tube flare tool. not that crappy one you can loan out from auto parts store.

if you have specific questions I'm happy to help.

if you decide to go the hard line route? put a little how I did it here.

<iframe width="800" height="600" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/VW3lqvjnCek?t=1738" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[ebenditt1]

I just had to replace my rack and due to the rust I had to also cut one of the lines as well.

-
ACDelco 36-365871 Professional Power Steering Return Line Hose Assembly
-Send line (reused the end after cutting if off the old one and used a short rubber gas line hose with clamps to secure. Also help after reinstalling as it can be bent some.
-Rack (Toyota part #44250-35042)
-OTRE (Toyota part #5047-39215 and 45046-39335)

Also if you putting in a new rack make sure you have someone or something hold the streeing wheel secure otherwise it will turn on you and could end up putting it in upside down. duh!


Hope this helps