Trans Temp Flux in Stop&Go but stable in freeway?

SnowLizard

New member
Ok so I've been driving try'n to document the trans temp so I took pic's of the guage cluster when able to... I'm really baffled.

after 20 min of driving to 'full temp' range... I started taking pictures to look at later... I'm more shocked on the flux of it all

A/F - TFT - fWT - Speed - rpm - traffic?
15.0 - 195 - 204 - 35 - 1500 - stop and go
14.8 - 192 - 204 - 0 - 800 - stopped ... AF is climbing when slowing/coasting
15.3 - 199 - 204 - 57 - 2000 - freeway start
15.0 - 195 - 204 - 57 - 2000 - few min on fwy
14.9 - 194 - 204 - 57 - 2000 - "
14.9 - 192 - 204 - 57 - 2000 - "
14.4 - 186 - 202 - 66 - 2200 - accelerate on fwy
14.3 - 185 - 202 - 66 - 2200 - after speed increase
14.3 - 185 - 202 - 64 - 2100 - slowing down start
14.2 - 183 - 202 - 62 - 2100 - slowing down
back to driving....
15.2 - 199 - 202 - 45 - 1700 - off freeway, 45mph zone
15.2 - 199 - 202 - 47 - 1600 - tc locked
back to driving
14.0 - 179 - 204 - 49 - 1600 - torq converter locked
back to driving
15.0 - 195 - 204 - 41 - 1600 - stop and go
15.0 - 195 - 203 - 41 - 1600 - "
14.9 - 194 - 202 - 46 - 1500 - smoother traffic
driving
14.8 - 192 - 202 - 46 - 1500 - "
14.7 - 190 - 202 - 48 - 1600 - "
14.5 - 190 - 202 - 48 - 1600 - slow a little, but smooth
14.5 - 190 - 202 - 49 - 1600 - smoother traffic
14.4 - 186 - 202 - 48 - 1600 - "
14.2 - 183 - 202 - 45 - 1500 - slight slow
14.1 - 181 - 202 - 43 - 1500 - slowing test
driving
15.1 - 197 - 202 - 40 - 1400 - speeding up from stop
14.9 - 194 - 204 - 0 - 1000 - stopped

gave up...

so this is my findings... any insight of WHY the trans temp is such a huge flex... when temp gets higher, I can tell the trans 'feels' like it's slipping, and I replaced the fluid 8k ago.
recent work was Rad, toyota t-stat, toyota timing belt, and toyota coolant, it wasn't doing this before the work... only after, and it wasn't until the 2nd rad change (warranty chg)

this wasn't really a long trip like yesterday, when it reached 210... maybe some insight...
 
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Whats bothersome about your numbers are your water temps. If you installed your T-stat correctly you should be running around 186° pretty consistently.

Your temps are running high which correlates to the higher tranny temps.

My highway radiator temps stay at 186 almost constantly. My tranny temps are much lower, around the 160-170's except when going up hills. It spikes pretty fast from 170 upwards to 202 in a matter of minutes. I need to turn the OD off to drop the temps back down into the 186 range.
 
My torque app will show somewhat similar quick tranny temp changes in city or hillclimbing/mountain passes. But overall temp depends on ambient temps. Naturally summer in texas will really impact that when its mostly 100 or so every day for 3-4 months sometimes.

Engine is always 194+/- a degree or two at most whether its winter or summer. Trans w/b max 150 in winter and about 190 in summer. If i don't hit OD override button in mountain passes it will climb to 235 in summer, will stay at 195 or so with OD off.

So try reducing your high temps with OD off for kicks. Luck. :cowboy:
 
My torque app will show somewhat similar quick tranny temp changes in city or hillclimbing/mountain passes. But overall temp depends on ambient temps. Naturally summer in texas will really impact that when its mostly 100 or so every day for 3-4 months sometimes.

Engine is always 194+/- a degree or two at most whether its winter or summer. Trans w/b max 150 in winter and about 190 in summer. If i don't hit OD override button in mountain passes it will climb to 235 in summer, will stay at 195 or so with OD off.

So try reducing your high temps with OD off for kicks. Luck. :cowboy:

I can't read temps on my model, since I don't think it had the sensor in 1998, but reading your post,

Gets to 235, that is with no trailer? Well that's pretty high, I'll remind myself to do regular transmission oil changes every 60K miles maximum.
 
Yeah with no trailer but that is on a mountain pass like at least the sierra madre with OD on, within 30 seconds of switching OD off it will drop to 198 so I have just learned to switch it off as the climb starts. Also this unit is bypassed so it may not have the cooling ability the original design intended using the engine's water to indirectly cool the tranny fluid? (Engines always at 194).

Other driving around central texas where its mildly hilly doesn't yield tranny temps above 190 or so during summer, 30-40 degress less in other seasons.
 
So I just did a bit of highway driving today and monitored my radiator temps and my tranny temps. No screen shots but here's the synopsis:

Average speeds between 71-78
RPMS around 2300 or so
184° - 186° for water temp
145° - 159° for tranny temps

Inclines
RPMS upwards of 3000
184° - 186° (Hardly ever changed)
158° - 178°

Steeper Climbs with OD still off but ECT on
186° - 190°
189° - 202°

Once I turn the OD off the tranny temps drop to around 179°

Tranny temps creep up to above 200° for me everyday on my 3 mile drive up my mountain.

Hope this helps.

Oh yea, ambient temp in SW Washington was around the low 60's today.
 
So I just did a bit of highway driving today and monitored my radiator temps and my tranny temps. No screen shots but here's the synopsis:

Average speeds between 71-78
RPMS around 2300 or so
184° - 186° for water temp
145° - 159° for tranny temps

Inclines
RPMS upwards of 3000
184° - 186° (Hardly ever changed)
158° - 178°

Steeper Climbs with OD still off but ECT on
186° - 190°
189° - 202°

Once I turn the OD off the tranny temps drop to around 179°

Tranny temps creep up to above 200° for me everyday on my 3 mile drive up my mountain.

Hope this helps.

Oh yea, ambient temp in SW Washington was around the low 60's today.

What thermostat are you running?
My engine temp is a solid 197 once it warms up.
I'm not sure what thermostat I have.
 
What thermostat are you running?
My engine temp is a solid 197 once it warms up.
I'm not sure what thermostat I have.

Your temp is too high. Where do you have the jiggle valve? Should be at the 6 o'clock position. I'm running a TAMA brand which is OEM brand made in Japan. Here's the link to it: Stant is good name also but get as close to OEM as possible.

Napa 154-2407 180° Thermostat
 

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Now I'm kinda curious as to what the average temps are. I'm pretty solid at 184-186° consistently.

My Installation - March 2015
  • New Radiator PN# 16410-YZZAJ (OEM - ASIN)
  • T-Stat PN# 154-2407 (TAMA Brand 180°)
  • Toyota Anti-Freeze PN#00272-1LLAC-01 (Factory Red not Factory Pink)
 
Well, I flipped the stupid t-stat and jiggle is down, I repeat the jiggle is down... Lol

Took her for a short spin, not long, wt was 190 and trans was still climbing... Ended at 180ish trans... It was about 70 ambient air temp.

I'll spin tomorrow and update... I'm skeptical that it was/is my only issue.
 
the highest I've ever got my trans temp was up to 220... this was on a steep hill that had a lot of turns, and i was heavy with the gas. and it was hot outside.





My average or typically temp that I see is 180


. . . .
 
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I am with Rock-Rat on this one 183-186 all the time rain or shine, It is remarkably consistent. I never had the ultaguage when I had the auto trans cooling through the radiator so I could not tell you what temp it ran like that. When I put a gauge on the transmission with a trans cooler, the transmission ran from170 -220 always on steep low speed driving(thats all I have!)
 
Your temp is too high. Where do you have the jiggle valve? Should be at the 6 o'clock position. I'm running a TAMA brand which is OEM brand made in Japan. Here's the link to it: Stant is good name also but get as close to OEM as possible.

Napa 154-2407 180° Thermostat

I don't see how it's too high. Typical radiator Temps are 195-200* in most vehicles. Under 190 and heater doesn't work as good. Temps of 210* and above is when you can have issues.

The biggest issue people have is buying a scan gauge and over thinking stuff. That's why temp sensors on the dash don't fluctuate from small changes. Because people would be at dealer complaining when nothing is wrong.
 
I don't see how it's too high. Typical radiator Temps are 195-200* in most vehicles. Under 190 and heater doesn't work as good. Temps of 210* and above is when you can have issues.

The biggest issue people have is buying a scan gauge and over thinking stuff. That's why temp sensors on the dash don't fluctuate from small changes. Because people would be at dealer complaining when nothing is wrong.


^^^ Exactly. In stop and go traffic the automatic trans does not have the torque convertor locked up so it will be building heat when driving around town. That is part of the issue with lots of city miles - lots of heat cycles. As long as the heat does not climb too high and it sheds it decently then you should be okay.
 
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I ran 193-205* for years after Toyota changed my thermostat, jiggle valve was at 12 o'clock. I changed mine about a year ago at the 6 o'clock position as per FSM and have never seen it go above 193* and that is only on a long uphill. My stock gauge has never moved for either setting. I would not sweat either setting but will be leaving my thermostat at 6 o'clock in the future. I live in Ontario, Canada and my heater works fine under both settings.
 
^^^ Exactly. In stop and go traffic the automatic trans does not have the torque convertor locked up so it will be building heat when driving around town. That is part of the issue with lots of city miles - lots of heat cycles. As long as the heat does not climb too high and it sheds it decently then you should be okay.

The problem is with the OP he's pretty consistent at 202* whether he's in stop-and-go or on the freeway. Nothing below 202* That doesn't seem to be the norm for our 5VZ's, especially for freeway driving.

He might be running a 190* t-stat which will post 10-15* higher.

I agree with you, there's nothing to be too concerned with as long as it doesn't start to creep up to the 220* zone consistently.
 
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