Transfer case longevity on V8 models

Runner-Wannabe

New member
Hey guys, I’m fact finding on 4th gens. I originally wanted a 3rd gen. but I’m trying to stretch my budget out to a 4th gen.

The question I have is what is the longevity of the V8 transfer cases vs the v6 models? (V8 is full time 4x4, v6 is not)

I’ll really only be able to afford something 250 mile+ range, so I’m worried that the V8 transfer case will be as tired as the trans. Could be a rebuild cost I can’t really afford to gamble on
 
Register to hide this ad
Hey guys, I’m fact finding on 4th gens. I originally wanted a 3rd gen. but I’m trying to stretch my budget out to a 4th gen.

The question I have is what is the longevity of the V8 transfer cases vs the v6 models? (V8 is full time 4x4, v6 is not)

I’ll really only be able to afford something 250 mile+ range, so I’m worried that the V8 transfer case will be as tired as the trans. Could be a rebuild cost I can’t really afford to gamble on

So, I bought my 2003 with 280k miles on it. The trans is fine but the tcase actuators are crap. Unless the PO used 4wd on a regular basis, you are likely to have issues.

The best fix for the tcase is to do an FJ Cruiser tcase swap. That's what I have done on mine. Manual tcase, no electronic crap to fail.

Change fluids with the correct stuff as soon as you get the vehicle and you should be fine. Be sure to carefully check the tcase operation BEFORE you buy. The tcase won't fail mechanically, just the shitty electronic motors. And then it's pricey to get fixed and not easy. FJ swap is cheaper, especially if you do the work yourself. And bulletproof.
 
Thanks, how involved is an FJ Tcase swap?
How is the 4hi -4low actuated then? The old style shift lever inside the cab? If so, does it look like a factory option?
 
Only time I have seen a t-case break is when rock crawling all 4 35" tires were hopping under a good amount of throttle and created a hairline crack on the case near the output shaft after a loud crack.

The actuator is the only thing that really gives anyone problems.
 
Aside from actuator failure the only issue I've heard of is from ignoring a bad u-joint. Seems the position of the one near the t-case can damage the t-case housing if it fails.
 
Thanks guys, I don’t really know much about transfer cases. I’m more concerned about wear and tear than breakage. In the snowbelt areas I assumed v6 transfer cases only see powered use in poor weather. But the V8 transfer case has same miles as the driveline.
 
Thanks guys, I don’t really know much about transfer cases. I’m more concerned about wear and tear than breakage. In the snowbelt areas I assumed v6 transfer cases only see powered use in poor weather. But the V8 transfer case has same miles as the driveline.

The main thing is does it work when you buy it. If you can exercise it several times and it works, then by doing your monthly "use it or lose it" you are probably going to be more or less fine.

That said, the actuator is the weak point. If it is seized, there is a thread on this forum somewhere with how to tear down the TCase to replace the seals, etc. However, if the motor is toast, there isn't much you can do short of buying a new actuator. RockAuto has an Dorman one for 700$, and they go up from there.
 
The main thing is does it work when you buy it. If you can exercise it several times and it works, then by doing your monthly "use it or lose it" you are probably going to be more or less fine.

That said, the actuator is the weak point. If it is seized, there is a thread on this forum somewhere with how to tear down the TCase to replace the seals, etc. However, if the motor is toast, there isn't much you can do short of buying a new actuator. RockAuto has an Dorman one for 700$, and they go up from there.

This is why I push the FJ tcase swap.

$200 - $250 for a manually shifted FJ tcase from an automatic (NOT the manual trans FJ, won't fit).

Around $600-$700 for the modified driveshafts, new. If you can find a shop to shorten/lengthen, it'll be cheaper.

If you do the work yourself, it's an easy swap. Cut a hole in the trans tunnel, cut and weld or have welded the shifter handle to come up thru the ash tray. Measure and have modified the driveshafts.

If you have a V6 with ADD front axle, you need to make a wiring harness to manually activate the ADD or just lock it permanently. The V8 models don't require this.

That's all there is to it. It's really that simple.

Repairing the stock tcase actuators will cost a lot more in the long run and have the potential to fail again. It just wasn't worth the cost or effort to me when the FJ tcase swap is so easy, much cheaper and vastly more reliable over the long run. And I now have 2wd in my 2003 V8 4Runner.
 
This is why I push the FJ tcase swap.

$200 - $250 for a manually shifted FJ tcase from an automatic (NOT the manual trans FJ, won't fit).

Around $600-$700 for the modified driveshafts, new. If you can find a shop to shorten/lengthen, it'll be cheaper.

If you do the work yourself, it's an easy swap. Cut a hole in the trans tunnel, cut and weld or have welded the shifter handle to come up thru the ash tray. Measure and have modified the driveshafts.

If you have a V6 with ADD front axle, you need to make a wiring harness to manually activate the ADD or just lock it permanently. The V8 models don't require this.

That's all there is to it. It's really that simple.

Repairing the stock tcase actuators will cost a lot more in the long run and have the potential to fail again. It just wasn't worth the cost or effort to me when the FJ tcase swap is so easy, much cheaper and vastly more reliable over the long run. And I now have 2wd in my 2003 V8 4Runner.

This sounds really cool. Any fuel mileage savings in 2wd? I’ll be doing a lot of travelling in the summer/fall
 
AISIN SAT-003 is the original actuator, they're around $500.

The actual Tcase is easy to source, it's the same unit for all 03+ 4runners and Lexus GX's.
 
This is why I push the FJ tcase swap.

$200 - $250 for a manually shifted FJ tcase from an automatic (NOT the manual trans FJ, won't fit).

Around $600-$700 for the modified driveshafts, new. If you can find a shop to shorten/lengthen, it'll be cheaper.

If you do the work yourself, it's an easy swap. Cut a hole in the trans tunnel, cut and weld or have welded the shifter handle to come up thru the ash tray. Measure and have modified the driveshafts.

If you have a V6 with ADD front axle, you need to make a wiring harness to manually activate the ADD or just lock it permanently. The V8 models don't require this.

That's all there is to it. It's really that simple.

Repairing the stock tcase actuators will cost a lot more in the long run and have the potential to fail again. It just wasn't worth the cost or effort to me when the FJ tcase swap is so easy, much cheaper and vastly more reliable over the long run. And I now have 2wd in my 2003 V8 4Runner.

So basically I need an FJ TCase *AND* an FJ rear axle now xD

In all seriousness, one of the reasons I went with a 4th gen over an FJ or a 5th gen was the multi-mode transfer case. We use ours as our all conquering snow vehicle as well, so having AWD is nice.

Still, cool mod.
 
How does 2WD affect traction control and VSC?

It doesn't. Still works the same. Completely different system, unrelated to 2wd or 4wd.

So basically I need an FJ TCase *AND* an FJ rear axle now xD

In all seriousness, one of the reasons I went with a 4th gen over an FJ or a 5th gen was the multi-mode transfer case. We use ours as our all conquering snow vehicle as well, so having AWD is nice.

Still, cool mod.

4HI is the same as AWD, just minus the center diff. If you are in snow or mud, you don't want or need that center diff most times anyhow. 4HI can be engaged while moving, up to like 25 or 30mph, by pulling the shift stick straight back. Simple. One extra step for a V6 is to engage the front ADD, unless it's been locked in permanently.
 
It doesn't. Still works the same. Completely different system, unrelated to 2wd or 4wd.

Sorry, i quoted the wrong post. It was meant to quote the guy with the V8 who commented on 2WD mode with the FJ xfer case. How does vsc and traction control react doing rwd burnouts?
 
Sorry, i quoted the wrong post. It was meant to quote the guy with the V8 who commented on 2WD mode with the FJ xfer case. How does vsc and traction control react doing rwd burnouts?

It doesn't work because VSC and TRAC still work. Unless you disable VSC, you aren't doing burnouts. There are plenty of threads on how to do that.

I can disable VSC in mine and break the rear end loose in the dirt without problems or interference from TRAC. TRAC still works but is only really effective at slow tire speeds. I have not tried doing a burnout on pavement.
 
Ok, Good to know. Burnouts was a bit of an exaggeration, I don't think any of us would be doing smoke shows Cletus style. I am more interested what would happen in limited traction slower speed situations. Light snow in the suburbs going around corners, or wet grass up hill. I know on some vehicles if traction is lost the computer takes over and ends up locking up the brakes or pulling so much power that you can't even get the vehicle to turn a tire let alone move forward.

So the answer is if you want to use RWD do the VSC off mod and the computer wont go nuts and take over on limited traction terrain? Same thing if you want to do some donuts or slide a bit sideways for some fun?

It doesn't work because VSC and TRAC still work. Unless you disable VSC, you aren't doing burnouts. There are plenty of threads on how to do that.

I can disable VSC in mine and break the rear end loose in the dirt without problems or interference from TRAC. TRAC still works but is only really effective at slow tire speeds. I have not tried doing a burnout on pavement.
 
Ok, Good to know. Burnouts was a bit of an exaggeration, I don't think any of us would be doing smoke shows Cletus style. I am more interested what would happen in limited traction slower speed situations. Light snow in the suburbs going around corners, or wet grass up hill. I know on some vehicles if traction is lost the computer takes over and ends up locking up the brakes or pulling so much power that you can't even get the vehicle to turn a tire let alone move forward.

So the answer is if you want to use RWD do the VSC off mod and the computer wont go nuts and take over on limited traction terrain? Same thing if you want to do some donuts or slide a bit sideways for some fun?

Yeah, pretty much.

With VSC off, TRAC still works and does not, by any means, interfere too much. If you get into a situation in 2WD or 4WD, it actually works really well as long as you don't apply too much throttle. It's helped me out of several situations that would otherwise have left me stuck due to a lack of a rear locker. Yet I can still have fun and do donuts if I'm in the mood.
 
Hey guys, I’m fact finding on 4th gens. I originally wanted a 3rd gen. but I’m trying to stretch my budget out to a 4th gen.

The question I have is what is the longevity of the V8 transfer cases vs the v6 models? (V8 is full time 4x4, v6 is not)

I’ll really only be able to afford something 250 mile+ range, so I’m worried that the V8 transfer case will be as tired as the trans. Could be a rebuild cost I can’t really afford to gamble on

My '04 V8 had its transfer case reaplaced under warranty at around 15k miles. It has 176k on it now and still works great.

One thing to keep in mine and this is really just my opinion - I wouldn't buy a 4th gen V6 model unless it was an '06 model or newer due to the common head gasket failures. They may have been fixed in '05 but im not sure.
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,306
Messages
3,554,045
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top