Transitioning from a '97 to a '00

shoota

Member
So don't be too jealous but I currently own TWO third gens :) Sadly, I can only keep one. As you know the ride in the back seat can be a little... jarring. Seeing as I have a little one on the way (next week) I'm hoping there is something I can do to smooth out the ride in the back seat for him (and everyone else too).

Also, I've googled but not trusting what I've read. Do the '97 and the '00 use the same wiring harness for the stereo? I need to move my setup over to the new truck.

Thanks, I'm sure there will be some more questions along the way.
 
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Yes, the stereo harness should be the same. In my experience, the previous owner installed a radio and spliced and cut each individual wire, so if you didn't install it yourself be on the look out for weird stuff like that.

As far as ride comfort....I've been spending most of my time making my ride more uncomfortable:) so I can't help with that...
 
Ha, yeah I get that. I mean if I got a 2" lift out the deal I wouldn't complain too much :)

I put in the current stereo so I know it's done right. Just needed to make sure it was the same wiring harness, so thank you for confirming that.


Are most of the aftermarket shocks that I read about on here all the same in terms of comfort? i.e. not very soft?
 
Bilsteins are quite comfy in the back, from what I've read. When i talked to Steve over at sonoran steel about the 1.2 kit (tokico shocks with lc coils in rear) vs the 7.2 kit (bilstein 5100s with ome 890s) he said the 7.2 is much more "wife friendly".

So bilstein 5100s with ome 906s (2" lift) or 890s (3" lift) ought to do ya mighty nice ;)

Disclaimer: this is only from what I've read and I have yet to put the above mentioned shocks on.
 
Bilsteins are quite comfy in the back, from what I've read. When i talked to Steve over at sonoran steel about the 1.2 kit (tokico shocks with lc coils in rear) vs the 7.2 kit (bilstein 5100s with ome 890s) he said the 7.2 is much more "wife friendly".

So bilstein 5100s with ome 906s (2" lift) or 890s (3" lift) ought to do ya mighty nice ;)

Disclaimer: this is only from what I've read and I have yet to put the above mentioned shocks on.

The 5100s do seem pretty popular around here. Can they only be used in conjunction with a lift? If so, which shocks should I look at if I don't install a lift?
 
Ha, yeah I get that. I mean if I got a 2" lift out the deal I wouldn't complain too much :)

I put in the current stereo so I know it's done right. Just needed to make sure it was the same wiring harness, so thank you for confirming that.


Are most of the aftermarket shocks that I read about on here all the same in terms of comfort? i.e. not very soft?

If you are going for a smooth ride, the stock Tokico's are by far the best. Anything else will be more stiff for off-roading. And they best part? They are only $30 in most cases:

2000 Toyota 4Runner Parts - Toyota Part Sales of Toyota of Dallas

You will probably want to replace the coils as well though. All the aftermarket parts you hear part of builds are also made for off-roading, so they will be stiff. I would look either to get new OEM springs or the aftermarket ones on Rockauto.com if you want comfort over performance.
 
If you are going for a smooth ride, the stock Tokico's are by far the best. Anything else will be more stiff for off-roading. And they best part? They are only $30 in most cases:

2000 Toyota 4Runner Parts - Toyota Part Sales of Toyota of Dallas

You will probably want to replace the coils as well though. All the aftermarket parts you hear part of builds are also made for off-roading, so they will be stiff. I would look either to get new OEM springs or the aftermarket ones on Rockauto.com if you want comfort over performance.

Ok that's actually really useful information thanks.
Would the stock shocks work with a 2-3" lift?
 
No, I don't think so. The threads on the ends are only long enough for stock height, if you lift it I don't think you could get a nut on the threads to keep it on, plus would be over-extended and probably wouldn't help with ride quality anymore at that point.

Basically you have to sacrifice ride quality a bit for lift. But most people are ok with that since they enjoy the end result.
 
The 5100s do seem pretty popular around here. Can they only be used in conjunction with a lift? If so, which shocks should I look at if I don't install a lift?

I replaced the suspension on my '99 last year, and went with the Bilstein 4600 which are listed as a stock replacement. Didn't love the ride at first, but after a few thousand miles they have really settled in and now I am happy with them. I went back with the '99 tall springs (same as stock on mine) - you could get those which would provide a small lift over your stock springs and still be able to use the OEM shocks mentioned earlier or the 4600 without issue.
 
Thanks guys, I think that wraps up the shock questions for now.

Next, both of my T4Rs shimmy while braking pretty badly, I'm assuming this is a common thing. I've been told they need new drums. What do you guys think? I'm tired of driving a vehicle that everyone thinks they're going to die in or something. It's embarrassing and I'm over it.

Also, why do the headlights stay on when I park and turn them off? They don't go off till I turn the engine off. Pretty annoying.
 
Thanks guys, I think that wraps up the shock questions for now.

Next, both of my T4Rs shimmy while braking pretty badly, I'm assuming this is a common thing. I've been told they need new drums. What do you guys think? I'm tired of driving a vehicle that everyone thinks they're going to die in or something. It's embarrassing and I'm over it.

Also, why do the headlights stay on when I park and turn them off? They don't go off till I turn the engine off. Pretty annoying.

Your drums are probably fine, but your rotors need replacing. Check out the tundra brake upgrade or TBU [MENTION=44220]BigFishAllDay[/MENTION] I belive has a measurements and etc thread about it and it is quite informative. Ultimately the factory brakes on all 3rd gens are too wimpy for the truck.

Your headlights stay on due to a small box on the drivers side of the truck just behind the front left headlight. It has a slottled protection sheilding around it and is along the fender between it and the battery. Unplug it. DRL's gone! My favorite most simple mod yet. Keep in mind that your lighs will now only turn on if you flip the stalk switch but will turn off after while to save the battery if you leave the switch on with the engine off and doors locked.
 
Your drums are probably fine, but your rotors need replacing. Check out the tundra brake upgrade or TBU [MENTION=44220]BigFishAllDay[/MENTION] I belive has a measurements and etc thread about it and it is quite informative. Ultimately the factory brakes on all 3rd gens are too wimpy for the truck.

Your headlights stay on due to a small box on the drivers side of the truck just behind the front left headlight. It has a slottled protection sheilding around it and is along the fender between it and the battery. Unplug it. DRL's gone! My favorite most simple mod yet. Keep in mind that your lighs will now only turn on if you flip the stalk switch but will turn off after while to save the battery if you leave the switch on with the engine off and doors locked.

Cool! You guys know everything! And now I know what DRL stands for :)

Next question: why does the gas pedal feel "sticky"? Is there anything I can do to smooth it out when I press down on it to accelerate?
 
Both issues have been addressed, but I'll chime in since Ive run pretty much all the lifts listed. Ive ran LC coils with LC Tokico shocks. Ive run the Trundra coil/bilstein setup. And Ive run OME 890s with the LC Tokico shocks in the back. Now Im running stock 99 coils all around with 5100s up front and still the LC Tokicos in the back.

I would also recommend running stock 3rd gen coils with stock Tokicos, unless you are looking for a lift. Everything else will be stiffer. The stock Tokicos are a perfectly acceptable shock, and will be a little smoother than the bilsteins. If you want a little lift just install OEM 99 coils all around with the Tokicos.

This was also covered, but a shimmy under braking is almost certainly caused by warped rotors. You can replace them with a nice set of Brembos. Its a pretty simple job. Ive had Brembos for about 60k miles and theyre still shimmy free.
 
Thanks. I've had this shimmy problem for quite a while with the '97 and I was told it was the rotors, so I had them replaced. It was better but not 100% better and it only lasted for maybe a couple thousand miles. Now that I have the 2000 and it's shimmying the exact same way (even at the same speed range, 40-50mph), I'm leary to just replace the rotors again for the shimmy to come back soon.
 
I just realized the corner marker lights aren't working. Is there a halogen replacement that will match my PIAA halogen headlight bulbs?
 
Ok so the point of the corners isn't to be bright, so halogen isn't necessary correct? Are they supposed to orange lights?
 

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