Transmission cooler recommendations

[Silver Supra]

I've read quite a few threads on adding an external transmission cooler and am going to do it, but wanted everyone's opinion on which cooler to go with.

I see lots of people use the B&M 70264 and was going to pull the trigger but wanted to check with everyone before I did.

Thanks!

 

[19963.4lsr5]

I used the TrueCool 4589. But there is nothing wrong with your choice.


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[3bears]

I have been using B&M for years in multiple rigs and no issues. I used a smaller one, but I live in a colder climate at 3100 feet. that said, if I was to do it again Id prob go larger as when I rock crawl my tranny temps get up there. I might go to an electric fan on the cooler instead of switching, haven't decided yet.

If your going to do a lot of low speed crawling, a bigger cooler or fan is needed as they all work best by air flow

 

[gamefreakgc]

Any cooler is better than no cooler if you're experiencing high transmission temperatures.

 

[empty403]

I've read quite a few threads on adding an external transmission cooler and am going to do it, but wanted everyone's opinion on which cooler to go with.

I see lots of people use the B&M 70264 and was going to pull the trigger but wanted to check with everyone before I did.

Thanks!

Get a Setrab Oil Cooler. Get the largest one you can fit. I believe I put in the 19 row in my 4th Gen V8. I really wanted to install the 25 row but I don't think it would have fit with a winch I'm planning to install in the future. I also bypassed the radiator. I'll post some pictures later, today

 

[Silver Supra]

Thanks for the feedback everyone.

I have a Setrab oil cooler on my supra and know how high quality it is. I was trying to keep this more of a budget upgrade but I'll check out the options for a 4Runner too.

I may install a fan too if there is enough space.

 

[empty403]

Thanks for the feedback everyone.

I have a Setrab oil cooler on my supra and know how high quality it is. I was trying to keep this more of a budget upgrade but I'll check out the options for a 4Runner too.

I may install a fan too if there is enough space.

I just liked the quality and the high BTU rating on the 6 Series

 

[MStudt]

Here's a thread from last week on the same topic!

Here's a word of advice for whichever direct you go. DO NOT attached it directly to the AC condenser by feeding the tabs through the fins. This will work for a while, but it will eventually cause your condenser to fail.

 

[Silver Supra]

Here's a thread from last week on the same topic!

Here's a word of advice for whichever direct you go. DO NOT attached it directly to the AC condenser be feeding the tabs through the fins. This will work for a while, but it will eventually cause your condenser to fail.

Agreed. I will fab up some brackets.

 

[BucksCo]

I see lots of people use the B&M 70264 and was going to pull the trigger but wanted to check with everyone before I did.

I've been running the B&M 70264 for the last 5 years with no problems. It saved my 4Runner from a Strawberry Milkshake this past December.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/247605-99-4runner-leaking-coolant.html

 

[mtbtim]

Here's a thread from last week on the same topic!

Here's a word of advice for whichever direct you go. DO NOT attached it directly to the AC condenser by feeding the tabs through the fins. This will work for a while, but it will eventually cause your condenser to fail.

This is interesting Mike. I have my B&M 70264 cooler mounted to the AC condenser with the zip ties and it's probably been on my rig for around 40,000 miles. But, I haven't done a ton of hard off-roading with it either. Between the cooler and the AC condenser, I used the supplied cushions so I don't see how that could cause a hole to be worn into the condenser. Now on the back side, if you chose to run it through just the condenser and not the radiator as well, I could see how the hard plastic ends locking the zip ties in could possibly end up wearing a hole in the AC condenser cooling channels with some movement in the cooler.

On my 2000, I ran the zip ties through both the condenser and radiator. On my 1998, I ran it just through the condenser thinking this would be the smarter move for future work like doing a timing belt job and you need to pull the radiator out causing you to cut the zip ties that hold the cooler in place.

Can you let us know exactly where the failure happened with your AC condenser? Was your cooler a little loose allowing it to move on the condenser or was it locked down tight?

I chose the zip tie route because I figured this was the best option for allowing the engine fan to pull air through it. Using the brackets, you can probably get it pretty close to the AC condenser but there will still be an air gap between the two components. So, at a stop or slow driving conditions, the engine fan might not be pulling air through the cooler but rather around the cooler. Maybe the difference is minimal, but I figured you would get more efficient cooling with the cooler mounted directly to the AC condenser.

 

[MStudt]

This is interesting Mike. I have my B&M 70264 cooler mounted to the AC condenser with the zip ties and it's probably been on my rig for around 40,000 miles. But, I haven't done a ton of hard off-roading with it either. Between the cooler and the AC condenser, I used the supplied cushions so I don't see how that could cause a hole to be worn into the condenser. Now on the back side, if you chose to run it through just the condenser and not the radiator as well, I could see how the hard plastic ends locking the zip ties in could possibly end up wearing a hole in the AC condenser cooling channels with some movement in the cooler.

On my 2000, I ran the zip ties through both the condenser and radiator. On my 1998, I ran it just through the condenser thinking this would be the smarter move for future work like doing a timing belt job and you need to pull the radiator out causing you to cut the zip ties that hold the cooler in place.

Can you let us know exactly where the failure happened with your AC condenser? Was your cooler a little loose allowing it to move on the condenser or was it locked down tight?

I chose the zip tie route because I figured this was the best option for allowing the engine fan to pull air through it. Using the brackets, you can probably get it pretty close to the AC condenser but there will still be an air gap between the two components. So, at a stop or slow driving conditions, the engine fan might not be pulling air through the cooler but rather around the cooler. Maybe the difference is minimal, but I figured you would get more efficient cooling with the cooler mounted directly to the AC condenser.

I ran the supplied mounts through both the radiator, and condenser as well. After about 20,000 miles I suddenly had no AC while returning home from Colorado.

I didn't think much of it until we were getting ready for a long trip, and I picked up a couple cans to recharge it. The air got ice cold, and thought maybe it was just low. Then I started hearing a hissing sound, and it was in the exact same location as one of the mounts. When I pulled everything apart I noticed the lower mounts had enlarged opens from where the mounts went through the condenser. One side was large enough to puncture the fins, and the other side wasn't far behind.

 

[alumarine]

Like mtbtim I've used rad zip ties with rubber spacers a number of times without any trouble.

I've always made sure they were good and tight.
If the cooler can't move, it can't rub is my thinking.

 

[fan of fanboys]

if not going to run a transmission cooler what is a good time to proactively replace radiator? every 100k? 200k?

 

[mtbtim]

Like mtbtim I've used rad zip ties with rubber spacers a number of times without any trouble.

I've always made sure they were good and tight.
If the cooler can't move, it can't rub is my thinking.

Yeah, I think the key is to have those zip ties really snug. I can't wiggle the coolers at all on my 2 rigs. But, if I have a condenser failure, I'll eat my words, I reckon.

 

[spartacus]

if not going to run a transmission cooler what is a good time to proactively replace radiator? every 100k? 200k?

I flush the radiator annually and put toyota red. I am original owner of a 2000 toyota 4runner sr5' 386000 miles and have replaced the radiator only one time 4 years ago cause the overflow stem broke (long story). I drive the mountain passes here in colorado and installed a b&m 70264 this year I haven't notice much of a difference in diff temps and am puzzled by it. when going up steep passes at 65mph and keeping the overdrive off is where I have seen the temp drops but I have seen these temp drops even without an external cooler. On our seven day alpine loop overland journey I wil definately keep a record of the diff temps and see if there was a significant advantage to the b&m cooler. I have the cooler in series with the radiator so I am not worried about pink milkshake.

 

[Silver Supra]

Is there room to fit one of these? I really like the ability to run forced cooling for slow speed crawling, etc.

Application Summary Dimensions 13.5 in. x 9 in. x 3.5 in. with 9.5 in. diameter fan. 6 Amp capacity.
Associated Comments N/A
Features Hi-Tek Super Coolers are fitted with a high quality 12 Volt electric fans and built in mounting brackets which makes it ideal for maximum cooling. Suitable for many fluids including ATF, Engine Oil, Differential Oil and power steering fluid.
Fin And Plate Cooler Construction
Includes 12 Volt High Flow Fan
Includes Thermal Switch
Pressure Tested To 200 PSI

 

[octanejunkie]

Check out [MENTION=143526]theesotericone[/MENTION] lists his choices of cooler, fan and parts here

 

[White_Knuckles]

if not going to run a transmission cooler what is a good time to proactively replace radiator? every 100k? 200k?

Thinking 100K should be about right especially with no service history. It has to do with the frequency of antifreeze changes where if too long of intervals, corrosion within the trans lines may have occurred? Cheap insurance and easy DIY.

One thing about this thread is doesn't suggest the combination of the radiator in series with an external trans cooler. This seems to be bypass not series. The size matters deal applies to series setups.