Transmission fluid question

maxs4runner

New member
So I live in the northeast and as you all may know the winter shows no mercy on our under carriage here. I recently noticed fluid on the ground and wouldn't ya know my cooler lines rusted out. Not sure how long ago or how much fluid I lost. After reading up on it I rigged up some new lines with 3/8 brake line and concealed them in larger rubber hoses to prevent any future occurrences. Everything is buttoned up no leaks now. My questions is...due to the uncertainty of how much fluid I lost, how can I tell how much to replace? I know kind of stupid question. I am pretty mechanically inclined but have never messed around with transmissions. I know the unit is a sealed unit on my truck(06 v6, no dipstick). I figured I could do the flush procedure, but my understanding with that is you take a little and give a little constantly monitoring the amount.
I drove my truck a couple blocks and its clearly missing a decent amount of fluid, its not shifting properly upon acceleration.
I read in the sticky post the transmission can take almost 17 quarts. I called the stealership who stated, "They typically do a standard flush of 11 quarts." Which I'm not 100% about their "flush" procedure, also I understand that could be more harmful than good. They quoted me about $160 for the flush which isn't terrible considering it would cost me $10/quart to do myself.
I apologize for the ridiculously long thread just trying to get my head wrapped around this and decide whether i am better off doing it myself. I should add, Id prefer not to drop the pan, either flush old with new or compensate for whatever I lost. I'll keep researching.....
 
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On my 5th gen, I had my local dealer just do a fluid exchange, no flush, which is better for the trans instead of the flush. My 4th gen will be next. The sealed transmissions have to be at a certain temp to check the fluid level.
115-130 degrees farenheit. I have the Torque Pro app which gives you transmission temps. I think there are other scan tools that will do this as well. But there is a system check the ECU will do with an SST (jumper wire). Here is a write up, and I think there are more if you search a little more.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-drain-refill-automatic-transmission.63851/
 
I just had my local shop perform a fluid exchange (12 qts, WS fluid).

The final step was to have the T4R properly warmed up and running on the lift, remove the fill plug, and pump in fluid until it leaked out of the fill hole. :cheers:

Shifts smooth as silk. (06 V8 @ 133K miles)
 
If you are experiencing erratic transmission operation caused by low fluid level, it would be in your best interest to get more fluid in the trans as soon as possible, to avoid permanent trans damage. You have few choices. Either take it to the dealer and have them at least do a pan drain and refill the trans to its proper level. If the existing fluid is not burnt, this should solve your issue. If the fluid is in need of replacement, then a flush and fill is warranted, as long as they have the proper equipment and trained personnel to do it. If the drive to the dealer is too long, then your best bet is to remove the fill plug on the trans and add fluid until it comes out. This wont be the exact procedure to properly fill it, but it will get you close enough to drive it to the dealer. If you do damage to the trans by driving it while it is low on fluid, the $160 they want for a flush will seem cheap, compared to replacing the trans.
 
Thank for the replies guys...after further research I think I have a much better grasp on the procedure and will do it myself. It seems rather straight forward...warm up the trans, drain, fill with four quarts...repeat this procedure three times and should put me at the 11.5 quarts required. Just to double check I want to remove the line running to the top of the radiator? The stealership claims its a 160 dollar procedure, I just feel like they wouldn't take the time to check temperature and more or less drain and fill. The fluid in there now that came out was the color of clean motor oil more or less so it definitely needs to be done.
 
I just had my local shop perform a fluid exchange (12 qts, WS fluid).

The final step was to have the T4R properly warmed up and running on the lift, remove the fill plug, and pump in fluid until it leaked out of the fill hole. :cheers:

Shifts smooth as silk. (06 V8 @ 133K miles)

This is NOT the proper "final" step when checking the correct fluid level, they shouldn't be adding more fluid until it starts leaking out the "fill" plug hole which is on the side of the transmission, if this is indeed the way they checked it for the correct fluid level I would recommend you take it somewhere that the Techs/mechanics know what they're doing, your transmisson could be overfilled which is worst then a little under filled, or it could be way under filled, either is not good!!!

The correct way to check the fluid level is the "fluid level" plug, there are 2 plugs on the transmission pan, the "drain" plug and the "fluid level" plug, the fluid level plug is in the "dimpled up" area on the pan and thusly where the plug seals to the pan is higher than the bottom surface of the pan, the vehicle should be setting on a level surface and not on a lift, the transmission should at the proper temperature and with the engine running you take out the fluid level plug, if fluid is not coming out of the fluid level drain hole you add more until it begans dripping out of the hole, you now have the proper fluid level, if fluid pours out of the hole you let it continue to do so until it slows down to a drip and all is good!!

I hope you misunderstood how they checked the level and they checked it correctly other then it being on the lift, but it being on a lift when they checked the level is not correct and would be a concern to me on my T4R, if you have doubts on how it was checked I would take it somewhere to have it properly checked.
 
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So I live in the northeast and as you all may know the winter shows no mercy on our under carriage here. I recently noticed fluid on the ground and wouldn't ya know my cooler lines rusted out. Not sure how long ago or how much fluid I lost. After reading up on it I rigged up some new lines with 3/8 brake line and concealed them in larger rubber hoses to prevent any future occurrences. Everything is buttoned up no leaks now. My questions is...due to the uncertainty of how much fluid I lost, how can I tell how much to replace? I know kind of stupid question. I am pretty mechanically inclined but have never messed around with transmissions. I know the unit is a sealed unit on my truck(06 v6, no dipstick). I figured I could do the flush procedure, but my understanding with that is you take a little and give a little constantly monitoring the amount.
I drove my truck a couple blocks and its clearly missing a decent amount of fluid, its not shifting properly upon acceleration.
I read in the sticky post the transmission can take almost 17 quarts. I called the stealership who stated, "They typically do a standard flush of 11 quarts." Which I'm not 100% about their "flush" procedure, also I understand that could be more harmful than good. They quoted me about $160 for the flush which isn't terrible considering it would cost me $10/quart to do myself.
I apologize for the ridiculously long thread just trying to get my head wrapped around this and decide whether i am better off doing it myself. I should add, Id prefer not to drop the pan, either flush old with new or compensate for whatever I lost. I'll keep researching.....

I'm curious, when you removed the cooler lines, did a lot of ATF end up leaking out or just drips? Just want to be prepared when I replace it.
 
A decent amount came out, I had just driven it before I realized just how bad the leak was, If I were to guess about 1/4 of a quart.
 
I hope you misunderstood how they checked the level and they checked it correctly other then it being on the lift, but it being on a lift when they checked the level is not correct and would be a concern to me on my T4R, if you have doubts on how it was checked I would take it somewhere to have it properly checked.

I have never worked on a sealed transmission before, but have maintained Power-glides, T-350s/T-400s before (for another story).

The lift had the adjustable platforms on the end, the T4R went up and down numerous times for other maintenance, he did adjust the height of the individual arms before the T4R went up for the final time.

When the final fill occurred, he must have pumped almost 1/2 a quart in, seeing the amount that was coming out. I didn't pay much attention, but since you mentioned it, it was a slow drip when he capped it off.

I got lucky when I found this garage, I had them perform some simple stuff to see how they operated, before I let them loose on the tranny. This was after discussing the procedure with TWO local Toyota dealerships, whom I chose to bypass.

This shop specializes on MB$ and BMW$, but takes care of the 'regular' vehicles for us locals. A BMW 750 was in the next bay, and a pristine FJ-40 was around the corner, not that that means anything, but is somewhat reassuring. I have earned their trust for them to allow me under the lift with them, they continue to earn my trust. My previous "shop boy" experience, shows I can stay out of their way, oh the good ole' days.

:thumb:
 
I spent all of yesterday dropping the pan, swapping out the SLT solenoid and filter for good measure, followed by the refill procedure for fluids. Good news, the check engine light went off on its own. I drove around the block a few times and everything seemed good. Shifting is much smoother now, however there seemed to be a rattle coming from the transmission housing. I am 100% certain everything is tightened to spec I took my time, its move like a clicking at idle. During the overflow procedure, every third time I would check the liquid seemed to be frothy-like, almost as if it were mixed with coolant. I thought maybe this was due to the transmission being at operating temperature. So once the oil at the correct level I buttoned everything up and called it a day.
Fast forward to today, I fire the truck up to go to the gym and immediately the CEL and VSC lights are on, same code P02716. I am so disappointed at this point, I continued to drive it to see if I felt anything. The lurching when accelerating is complete gone, it actually shifts quite smooth now. When accelerating from a complete stop it does kind of hesitate for 1-2 seconds. I bench tested the old solenoid resistance and had a 5.7 reading which seemed close to within the 5-5.6 operating range. At this point, I do not think the problem is the solenoid even though that's the only code I get. I cannot clear it because it returns instantly. Its almost as if the fluid is being starved or not circulated properly. I am starting to think perhaps the trans cooler pump may be fried. Any insight or where to look next? I really don't want to call it quits on this thing I love the truck its been good to me so far.
 

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