Transmission flush?

Here's an interesting method... $30 pump to pump in the new fluid as the old drains...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WngXE_7vg-Q

So much wrong in that video. He ran his tranny pan dry for 10 minutes to prove the gravity method doesn't work. He also uses a pump to pump the fluid in. Goes against what people are saying about the flush method being bad. How is he regulating the flow? Is it the same flow as the tranny pump? I doubt it. Luckily it seems to be less flow than the tranny pump so he didn't overfill the tranny. All the machines used in shops monitor the amount going out and match amount going back to the tranny. Even the TTech unit is a one to one transfer but doesn't use pumps. His method would have worked if he marked both containers and used a pump that pumped more fluid than the tranny pump then cycled the pump on and off by hand to match flow. Just over complicated a rather easy job if you ask me.
 
I have a really dumb question.

Why can't you:

1. Disconnect the transmission feed hose from the bottom of the radiator.
2. Sink it into a 4 Gallon bucket of new tranny fluid.
3. Put a hose on the radiator fitting and point it at an empty 5 gallon pail.
4. Run car until red is coming out of the radiator.

Why take off the pan and do the fill/drain/fill/drain dance?

Once it starts pumping from the bucket of new fluid, I would think it would just cycle things through.

-Mike
 
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...
Why can't you:

1. Disconnect the transmission feed hose from the bottom of the radiator.
2. Sink it into a 4 Gallon bucket of new tranny fluid.
3. Put a hose on the radiator fitting and point it at an empty 5 gallon pail.
4. Run car until red is coming out of the radiator.

Why take off the pan and do the fill/drain/fill/drain dance?
...

Because the system does not have suction' in feed line, its being pumped from the trans internally via the output line thru the coolers and back, yet there is no suction on the feedline hence it won't work to use a bucket, otherwise yeah it would be EZ...

But you don't have to remove the pan, just the drain plug. If you do it enough perhaps a Fomoto valve would make for an easier time: Amazon.com: FUMOTO F103N with LC-10 Lever Clip FN-Series Engine Oil Drain Valve: Automotive

Luck and enjoy the Runner. :cowboy:
 
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Best reason to pull the pan is to help clean out the gooey junk that's collected on the magnets, pan bottom, and topside of the filter.

Plus good info on the magnets concerning trans health status.

Yup, 3/8" tube and if removing upper trans tube access the mounting bolt through the wheel well. Topside is a weird angle. Very stubborn bolt.

Fluid velocity is approximately 22 seconds per quart.
IIRC any YRMV.

Permatex makes an FIPG(form in place gasket) remover. Definitely using that next time.

Maybe a 2 out of 5 bananas in difficulty (pan removal). Just takes a bunch of time (lots for cleaning). And be super careful re-torqueing the pan bolts.

Cheers!
 
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