Transmission Oil Cooler Install Problem...SHAKING IN GEAR

[BADGATE]

All right guys...I need your help. I just finished up a transmission cooler install. I purchased the Tru-Cool LPD 4454. I also replaced my old radiator at the same time. I completely bypassed the radiator for the transmission oil. All fluid levels are ok. The only transmission oil i lost is what was in the line replaced. Now when I start, everything seems ok. In park or neutral, she idles smooth. In any gear, there is a noticeable vibration.... definitely not normal, too strong. ANy ideas? HELP!

 

[BADGATE]

It appears to have smoothed out. I took it for a 5 minute drive and it has mostly smoothed out. Is this normal after this install?

 

[Acidmeld]

Probably just took some time to get the air bubbles out...

 

[DRC]

I completely bypassed the radiator for the transmission oil.

No this is not normal. I installed a Tru-cool 4544 about 2 months back and did not experience any difference after the install. I have an 08 with the sealed tranny and I needed to add about 300ml of fluid after the install to bring it back to the proper level.

You said “I completely bypassed the radiator for the transmission oil”. The Tru-cool 4454, 7 1/4" by 11", is not large enough to cool your transmission by itself and should be installed inline after the main radiator. Why did you bypass the radiator? Usually you only bypass the main radiator if it’s got a leak or something. When you bypass the main radiator core you must go with a larger auxiliary cooler. I would be concerned that the 4454 is to small for you tranny.

How did you install the cooler and how did you connect the lines? Do you have the fluid flowing in the top of the cooler and out the bottom? Also the Tru-cool uses a LPD bypass in the cooler itself so its best to install the cooler like this:



This way the bypass route is in the horizontal position from top, in, to bottom, out.

 

[BADGATE]

I installed just as you have pic'd DRC. It sits sideways, I ran the in at top and out the bottom...this is what the instructions said for the tru-cool.

I completely bypassed the radiator in an effort to avoid the dreaded "pink milkshake" that so many have ran into.

Is there anyone on here that has installed this on their runner and completely bypassed the radiator cooler?

It seemed to smooth out last night. This morning it had some small vibrations again when idling in gear, but immediately stopped while driving. I just drove it again at lunch and I experienced zero vibrations, so I am wondering if Acidmeld was correct that it was purging the air. How does this system purge the air, isn't it a closed system?

I checked the fluid level cold and the level was shown higher than the hot level. I checked it hot and the level was the same.:wtf:

Since I also replaced the radiator, should I incorporate the new radiator oil cooler and not bypass it?

 

[DRC]

I installed just as you have pic'd DRC. It sits sideways, I ran the in at top and out the bottom...this is what the instructions said for the tru-cool.

That's the best most efficient way for the Tru-cool cooler.

I completely bypassed the radiator in an effort to avoid the dreaded "pink milkshake" that so many have ran into.

I have heard of this on some of the older models but I thought this got fixed with the newer radiators because they put the cooler on the side, separate from the coolant. Since you installed a new radiator is this still a concern?

I checked the fluid level cold and the level was shown higher than the hot level. I checked it hot and the level was the same.:wtf:

You lost me a little here. Please don’t take any offence as I am not trying to imply that you checked the fluid level wrong, but tranny fluid should be check hot, well in the proper operating temperature that is, and with the engine running to get a correct reading. I may have miss understood your statement that you checked it cold and hot and got the same level. Can you clarify this?

Since I also replaced the radiator, should I incorporate the new radiator oil cooler and not bypass it?

Yes I would say you should incorporate the cooler in the main radiator. This serves two main purposes. First it adds cooling capacity to the system. The Tru-cool 4454 is only rated at 18,000lbs gvw. This is kind of miss-leading however. This does not mean you can cool a car that weights 18,000lbs. Its kind of like buy an air compressor. They market them as 5hp, but that is 5hp peek assuming like 90% efficiency and the true hp is like 1.5hp. This number assumes the cooler is 100% efficient. When the cooler is installed, depending on the location and air flow, it only cools at about 20% - 60% efficiency. If you tow anything or live in a warm area I would say the 4454 is to small to cool the tranny fluid on it’s own.

The other reason to inline the tranny cooler is for better cold weather operation. If you live in an area where it gets cold in the winter you may find that you will need to let your truck idle longer when it’s cold to get the fluid up to the proper temp. Remember, tranny fluid that is to cold is a bad thing also. You could have shift problems. When you run inline with the main radiator your tranny fluid picks up heat from the engine coolant and warms up much faster then it would without flowing through the main radiator.

I have never heard of air in a transmission so I can’t comment about that. What I would do is inline it with the radiator. Better safe then sorry. Recheck the fluid level and see how it performs. If you are still getting vibration, I would drain the tranny fluid and refill it with fresh tranny fluid. Depending on your mileage you may even consider doing a transmission filter change as well.

 

[BADGATE]

Since you installed a new radiator is this still a concern?

Please don’t take any offence as I am not trying to imply that you checked the fluid level wrong, but tranny fluid should be check hot, well in the proper operating temperature that is, and with the engine running to get a correct reading. I may have miss understood your statement that you checked it cold and hot and got the same level. Can you clarify this?

If you tow anything or live in a warm area I would say the 4454 is to small to cool the tranny fluid on it’s own.

The other reason to inline the tranny cooler is for better cold weather operation. If you live in an area where it gets cold in the winter you may find that you will need to let your truck idle longer when it’s cold to get the fluid up to the proper temp. Remember, tranny fluid that is to cold is a bad thing also. You could have shift problems. When you run inline with the main radiator your tranny fluid picks up heat from the engine coolant and warms up much faster then it would without flowing through the main radiator.

No offense taken...I appreciate the feedback, it's why I'm on here.

Towing is minimal for me. I live in PA and we get cold winters. I also drive my runner to FLA every year with the wife for a two week road trip and definitely see high temps as we hit all areas of the state. I want to be good for all.

Maybe I shouldn't be concerned with the "pink milkshake" since I replaced the radiator as well. My thought process was simply that "now it will never happen to me".:nerd:

I did check the fluid level both times (1) cold and (2) hot...got the same reading both times...it was above the top "hot" notch. What I guess I failed to do was check it while the vehicle was running.:ybrick:

On my drive home from work today, it never displayed the same vibration again, from start to stop.

You have me thinking about going ahead and changing the lines to run inline with the radiator cooler as well. What size is the oil cooler portion of the "combo" radiator (for lack of better terms)? Is it that much larger than the tru-cool? I did get the tru-cool nice & high so as not to be behind the bumper and more behind the grille.

 

[LINY4Runner]

I completely bypassed my radiator with no issue.

Are you 100% sure the fluid lines are installed correctly; inlet at top, outlet at the bottom?

 

[BADGATE]

Are you 100% sure the fluid lines are installed correctly; inlet at top, outlet at the bottom?

I double and triple checked...I have the fluid flowing correctly-> inlet at top, outlet at bottom. It does appear as though the vibrations are gone.

Liny - Do you have the same tru-cool 4454? Do you tow much?

Also, if I choose to eliminate the bypass idea and bring the radiator cooler back inline, does it matter which direction the in and out are on the radiator cooler? both the in and out are on the bottom. I could do this with the amount of hose I have left over, if it does not matter. If it truly does, I would just need to purchase more hose.

 

[CJ3Flyr]

Also, if I choose to eliminate the bypass idea and bring the radiator cooler back inline, does it matter which direction the in and out are on the radiator cooler? both the in and out are on the bottom. You want the fluid exit as close as possible to the bottom radiator hose. (Assuming the 3.4L isn't a 'reverse flow motor', in other wrods the bottom hose is the inlet hose.) I could do this with the amount of hose I have left over, if it does not matter. If it truly does, I would just need to purchase more hose.

:cheers:

 

[DRC]

Yes, I do believe the correct connections are important for effective heat transfer. How critical are they in a horizontal configuration like this one I am not sure.

Also, I thought on the 3.4L radiator, the barb closest to the bottom radiator hose, drivers side, is the inlet line, that is hot tranny fluid enters the radiator here. The barb on the passenger side is the return line, or outlet, where the cooler fluid returns to the transmission. To run inline you would connect the passenger side barb to the top of your auxiliary cooler and return the bottom of the auxiliary cooler to the transmission.

However it sounds like Chirs is saying the opposite of this. Chris can you confirm the correct connections?

 

[LINY4Runner]

I'm using the B&M cooler and I don't tow at all. Just protecting myself from the strawberry milkshake...

 

[CJ3Flyr]

However it sounds like Chirs is saying the opposite of this. Chris can you confirm the correct connections?

No I can't... I'm not looking at a 3rd gen right now. Generally speaking they are hooked-up as I suggested. I can get to a 3rd gen if need be but I'd go with what DRC says.

 

[BADGATE]

DRC - On my 3rd gen, you are correct in that the stock set up had the inlet on the driver side (the barb closest to the bottom radiator hose) and the outlet on the passenger side.

I am curious how important in vs. out could be in this horizontal configuration. Seems to me like it wouldn't be critical. I am also curious to anyone's thoughts as to whether or not it matters if I have the auxiliary cooler in line before or after the stock?

Liny - What are the dimensions of your B&M cooler?

Does anybody know the stock dimensions of the tranny cooler in the radiator?

 

[LINY4Runner]

11"x5-3/4"x3/4"

Automatic Transmission SuperCooler rated at 9,800 BTU 11"x5-3/4"x3/4"

 

[mongo161]

My only other question would be...."Since you changed the radiator at the same time as the TC installation, did you remember to burp the radiator?"

If you did an install of the radiator, you have to make sure that all the air is out of the system by running the heater on high, making sure that the truck is in the air, and waiting for the radiator to just start to burp the coolant. This takes about 10 minutes to have the new coolant circulate through the system while hot and get rid of any air pockets.

Just a suggestion on the rough idle and start up.....but you had a lot going on with the cooler, new lines, radiator and flushing the system. Maybe that is something you might have overlooked.....Burping the cooling system of any air pockets???

Cheers.