Transmission pan bolt

[stever1000]

I over torqued one of the transmission pan bolts (1 of the 20?)
Anyone know the size to replace? And suggestions on a size of extractor to remove the old one?

Thanks!

 

[stever1000]

Do I need all the bolts in the pan?

 

[3bears]

to be honest, they strip easy, and I stripped 2. did not replace, with the silicone gasket, it seams to seal, I have no leaks at those two, and that was 3 years ago

 

[octanejunkie]

Those bolts take something like 9 or 12 pounds feet of torque - looser than a pickle jar.

The problem with over torquing pan bolts is you usually deform the pan in the process, which may or may not be a problem; if it stays sealed, great, but I've never had that kind of luck.

 

[stever1000]

I may still look for one as a backup

Anyone know the size if I can get the old bolt out?

 

[phattyduck]

I may still look for one as a backup

Anyone know the size if I can get the old bolt out?

It should be an M6x1.0, Not sure on the length.

PN 90119-06513 if you want to get it from the dealer. Its less than $1.00...

-Charlie

 

[octanejunkie]

[MENTION=139000]phattyduck[/MENTION] riddle me this?

FIDM or Felpro gasket?

 

[phattyduck]

[MENTION=139000]phattyduck[/MENTION] riddle me this?

FIDM or Felpro gasket?

Never use a pre-made gasket on any Toyota (or other Japanese manufacturer) pans. Toyota FIPG, Hondabond, Subaru Three Bond, good quality RTV, etc. only. Unless you want to always have a seeping/leaking pan.

-Charlie

 

[alumarine]

Torque on those bolts is 65 in lbs or 5.4 ft lbs.
Virtually impossible to do accurately with any ft lb wrench.

 

[01thunder]

put a helicoil on it. get some bolts from a salvage yard.

 

[Noshirtganshirt]

Went through this exact problem last weekend on mine. Previous owner over torqued the bolts, causing a leak overtime.

I️ knew for certain that 5 of the 19 bolts were stripped. Dropped pan, cleaned and resealed and 3 more ended up stripping.

Ended up tapping every hole for a M7x1.0 bolt.

In all reality I️ should’ve put helicoils in all the holes, but it’s all good now, aluminum trans housings and steel bolts don’t fair well for the aluminum housing haha




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[stever1000]

I used a drill to drill a hole then a bolt extractor to try to remove the bolt. This didn't work: either the drill bit was cheaper than I thought or the bolt is hard. I was on a tight timeline so I left it and resealed the pan. I'm just missing 1 bolt out of the 19 so I think it's fine. I didn't notice any leaks.

Also, I bought a in-lb torque wrench. Torqued the bolts in 2 stages using in-lb.

 

[octanejunkie]

aluminum trans housings and steel bolts don’t fair well for the aluminum housing haha

This is why the trans pan should be studded, IMO

 

[phil777]

Sorry to reopen an old thread but I wasn't able to post my own yet. I recently dropped my pan and replaced filter with OEM. I stripped my drain plug but it is holding, I have new washer and bolt on order. I also noticed that the paint on the interior of my pan was flaking a bit. Is this normal with older transmissions? I'm thinking I might just order a new pan as well since there is a decent chance the pan is also stripped from the drain plug.

 

[3bears]

Sorry to reopen an old thread but I wasn't able to post my own yet. I recently dropped my pan and replaced filter with OEM. I stripped my drain plug but it is holding, I have new washer and bolt on order. I also noticed that the paint on the interior of my pan was flaking a bit. Is this normal with older transmissions? I'm thinking I might just order a new pan as well since there is a decent chance the pan is also stripped from the drain plug.

sadly this is a problem with these transmission pans and your experience is not new....but not super common either.

I believe new pans are about 150.

I have read where people grind off the old nut in pan, tac weld in a new one.
Ive read where people go to the next size up and tap the old nut of pan to that new size.... they just went to an auto parts store and got the next size up with a crush washer...does not have to be toyota
And people have just used bolts form the hardware store and a crush washer....and tapped to the next size.
maybe the stock pan and threaded area is thin or soft...thus the stripping...maybe thats why some people go to a new nut.

years and years back they used to make and sell emergency drain plugs...they were rubber with a bolt in them and the rubber expanded to seal..the same principle as a boat plug...havent seen in years....then again have not looked

as far as paint pealing inside...maybe take a wire wheel and strip all paint off inside so you dont have flakes going and plugging things up...dont know if it would....and besides...its getting splashed with oil all the time...dont think it would rust from the inside

 

[bootown]

the drain plug is about as strong as butter. odds are good the plug is stripped and the pan threads are fine. closely check the pan threads before starting a new bolt for any metal from the old stripped plug trapped in there.

watch the crush washer when tightening and go by that along with feel. give those two priority over a torque wrench (but use a torque wrench...just don't necessarily go to spec if washer crushes and the plug seems snug).

 

[phil777]

Thanks for you info guys, I have order a new plug, washer and pan. I will try replacing the plug first and see what happens, then if the pan really is stripped I will replace it. I will take a look at the paint as well and see if any more has flaked off since I have been driving it.