Transmission problems

Sullijm1

New member
Hello, 1990 Toyota 4Runner, 3.0L 3VZ-E V6, Automatic Trans.

I beat my truck up pretty hard today. I was running through mud and up some steep hills.

After the last hit of mud, I noticed that my truck no longer wanted to accelerate. The engine revs, but the truck doesn't move.

I checked under the truck while I was in drive and revving it, the drive shaft was not spinning. I tried this in 2H, 4H, and 4L to be sure I did not destroy my drive shaft or my rear dif. Same issue.

After dragging it down the trail a bit, I continued testing it. Eventually it started picking up and working just fine again. I continued to be gentle with it, but everything was working normal.

After some highway driving and a little bit of stop-and-go driving with no issues, I had the same issue at the stop light. The engine would rev but the truck would not accelerate, similar to if you had a clutch partially engaged but not fully.

I think my problem is in the torque converter. Can anyone help me narrow this down? I've already checked the fluid. It is full and bright red.
 
Register to hide this ad
I had this issue and found I was overheating the trans. I could feel it cooking through the floor and not soon after it would drop out of gear, I would just park where ever I could coast to and let it sit and cool for a few minuets and be on my way.
 
^ That sound right. If you were going through mud, there is a good chance the trans cooler could just be clogged and not letting it cool properly.
 
Thanks guys.

I did a little bit more research and found out I can run the trouble codes for the trans just like I can with the check-engine light.

Ran a code 42 and a 63. The 42 I'm not that worried about (spedometer sensor, but the speedo is still accurate), but the 63 indicates a bad solenoid #2, from what I've read.

As far as the trans being too hot, I let it sit over last night. I tried it this morning and it would not shift into gear at all. I'll double check the linkage when I get home, but I had no problems with it last night.

Do you guys know if I can rebuild the solenoid, or if it's better to replace the solenoid? If it's better to replace, is a used one from a junk yard acceptable? Money is very tight right now, so I don't want to spend more than $100 on the project, but I will if I need to.

Keep in mind the trans is going to be replaced in roughly a year (planning on doing a '99 3.4L/manual swap).

Thanks again for the help.
 
How smelly is the fluid? You probably burnt that trans fluid pretty good yesterday.

I wouldn't get a "flush", but I would drop the pan and replace whatever fluid comes out, as well as the filter.

Having said that, I have no experience with the toyota A340 auto trans! Not even sure if it has a pan and/or filter, but that's the first thing I would do if it were me!

Flushing with a machine has always bitten me in the ass (twice now), it seems to dislodge a lot more stuff than normal operating conditions, and it usually forces them into places that render the transmission dead. Happened in a Dodge and an Isuzu, and after lots of reading, its just safer to drain and refill whatever comes out, do that 3-5 times to get most of the fluid replaced with new fluid.

In any case, draining 3-4 quarts out and refilling with new stuff usually shows better shifting immediately.
 
So, I hate to be negative about this... But I'm currently waiting for a transmission to replace mine. I have 275K on the rig. When I started checking into why mine quit moving, I talked to a very reputable tranny guy. He said the A340's typically last about 200K before a drum ( I believe for the direct drive planetary gear) starts to break loose from the case, and when it spins you feel like you just shifted into neutral. Heat seems to aggravate it.

I came off the interstate, and made it about a half mile the first time it happened to me. For some reason, letting it sit for a minute with engine off would let me move a short distance before going neutral again. I got a tow home, dropped the pan, changed fluid and filter, and tested it. Seemed good, but I was only getting up to 40 on city streets. I decided to run an errand and hit the highway. Got about 5 miles before it went neutral again.

However, I have no codes. Maybe you can get away easier than a trans. But, most of the diagnostics I've checked out show that if one of the solenoids don't work, it only affects what gears you shift into, not put you into neutral.
 
I have a 93 a340h with 267k miles on it, been rebuilt twice if there is any interest I can look at receipts to see exact mileage. Probably would need a rebuild but I'd be willing to get rid of it cheap.
 
I have a 93 a340h with 267k miles on it, been rebuilt twice if there is any interest I can look at receipts to see exact mileage. Probably would need a rebuild but I'd be willing to get rid of it cheap.

I just found a used '93 trans/transfer case for $300 at a local yard, pulled for me and ready to go. 197K miles on it, so hopefully it'll still give me some miles.
 

Members online

No members online now.

Forum statistics

Threads
278,304
Messages
3,554,041
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top