Transmission questions

[Door Ding]

I have an 05 V8 with 167.xxx miles on it. bought it with 160k about 2 months or so ago. Previous owner had done a transmission flush just prior to my buying it. It was done at an independent shop in Maine. The receipt for this service lists Toyota W" fluid. Im not sure if this is the correct fluid for the transmission or not It drove perfectly fine for the last 7.5k miles, but lately, I feel like Im noticing some odd behavior.

If I'm in traffic at any speed, or in any sort of circumstance that requires abrupt on/off throttle situations, theres a bit of a thump when I get back on the gas if I do so with any sort of urgency. If I ease back onto the power I don't feel this at all. Is it normal for the rpms to sort of drop to idle when cruising on the highway or is the torque converter supposed to stay locked like i remember my 2010 tacoma doing while on the highway? It happens if I have the shifter in 4 or 5. Torque converter doesn't seem to stay locked. This has kinda been present all along but Im noticing it a little more lately...Or maybe I'm just being paranoid
Theres no check engine light present and Ive not seen it since I bought the truck.

Could this be a worn out motor mount or transmission mount? Do those go bad on these truck?

The other thing I've noticed is that its been having some rough shifts between 4 and 5, and occasionally 3-4 usually when its downshifting under power, like when you're causing on the highway at 65 and you punch it making it drop a couple gears, theres a bit of hesitation, then the lower gears engage with a bit of a thump. Not always but enough of the time for me to have developed a bit of concern. Its usually the 5-4 shift thats wonky, then the 4-3 is good.

If I manually downshift under power, I get the same sort of weird harsh shifts, more so when under light throttle as opposed to heavy throttle which seems to generate a smoother transition, though they almost always seem a little off... Again, not all the time, but enough to make me wonder..

When accelerating from a stop quickly, there seems to be no hesitation or weird shifts, they only seem to show up with downshifting.

After some digging around on the interwebs, I discovered the Toyota service records website which I joined. After wading through a very extensive and thorough service history, I found a receipt from just before I bought it listing a transmission shift solenoid code but no reference to what the exact code was as well as a secondary air injection code, again with no actual code listed. The dealer was not able to provide me details on what the actual codes were due to them changing their computer systems 6 months ago...figures, right :/

Now I know why they did a transmission flush, but what I don't know is if I have any grounds for actual concern or if these are just normal behavior for this platform. Has anyone experienced anything similar?

Any help would be GREATLY appreciated...

 

[mr_plow]

This is not normal behavior. I'd want to get that truck into Trans Temp Check mode immediately and check the ATF level via check plug. Toyota WS is OEM. I'm assuming W meant WS? Hope so, haha!

My diagnosis doesn't mean much, but I think your trans is on its way out. If the flush didn't fix it, then it's more serious.

I suggest dropping the pan and inspect for fatal debris. Add 3.2q of WS back in and level fluids off correctly at 113F trans temp. See what happens? It'll give you a clue to rule out/in your trans as the direct source.

 

[Door Ding]

Thats the thing, I think the flush DID fix the problem. Theres no code and it shifts normally most of the time. Im wondering if I just need a couple drain and fills to get whatever debris that have been loosened by the flush out of the transmission, sort of like a follow up. I have no slippage under acceleration at all, even when I hammer it hard from a stop, no weird shifts, nothing...

Thanks for the quick reply!

 

[mr_plow]

Thats the thing, I think the flush DID fix the problem. Theres no code and it shifts normally most of the time. Im wondering if I just need a couple drain and fills to get whatever debris that have been loosened by the flush out of the transmission, sort of like a follow up. I have no slippage under acceleration at all, even when I hammer it hard from a stop, no weird shifts, nothing...

Thanks for the quick reply!

Cleaning the debris out won't make a difference. If there IS debris, then we know there's damage... somewhere in that automatic transmission.

Most should be stuck on the pan magnets anyway.

Debris, yes – Transmission on last legs.
Debris, no – Issue lies elsewhere.

One more drain and fill can't hurt anyway. Gives you a chance to inspect the fluid as well to give us vital information.

Just make sure you level off the ATF with the proper procedure, please. Rushing it will make your problem much worse.

As far as I know, the transmission won't throw a code if something's wrong. Or at least it didn't for me.

 

[Door Ding]

I was thinking more along the lines of dirty fluid, gunk and whatnot when I said debris as opposed to pieces and parts

I don't think it could be that bad and still drive as well as it does.

As for the fluid check, Im planning to take it to toyota to have a drain and fill and fluid check done, I'm very hesitant to get involved in shorting pins together and making a mess in the driveway. I know just enough to be dangerous...

 

[mr_plow]

I was thinking more along the lines of dirty fluid, gunk and whatnot when I said debris as opposed to pieces and parts

I don't think it could be that bad and still drive as well as it does.

As for the fluid check, Im planning to take it to toyota to have a drain and fill and fluid check done, I'm very hesitant to get involved in shorting pins together and making a mess in the driveway. I know just enough to be dangerous...

It's super easy to do it easy and clean! Don't waste your money at a dealer. Only YOU can ensure 100% your trans is filled correctly. I wouldn't let another soul touch my drain plugs. But that's just me.

 

[CXS]

The flush at 167k may have been the only service the tranny ever had you may be in trouble. Flushing is generally a bad idea vs a drain & fill. There's a lot of opinions and experiences on here about this topic.

I'm not wanting to be the guy to bear bad news but you may have bought a truck that experienced problems after a flush and the PO chose to sell rather than deal with it.

I hope not but proceed with caution.

 

[Door Ding]

Yeah this thought has entered my mind for sure. Im honestly of the thinking that he had the problem, flushed the transmission and then sold it not knowing if the problem was solved or not. It had had a prior trans service at around 94k with a timing belt service.

Flush was done at 160k, and its got almost 168k on it right now.

I drove it hard prior to buying it to make sure it was solid and it really is for the most part. Have to wait and see what comes of the transmission service Im gonna do in the near future I guess.

 

[RonJR]

Make sure your drive shaft (U-joints and slip joints) is greased before you go any further. Dry drive shafts cause thumps during load changes. Easy thing to take care of.

 

[vegask]

Its low on fluid. My 97 did this for about a year and I was ready to replace the trans. On a whim I checked the dipstick (older 4runners had one) and I was a good quart low. No idea how I lost a quart but its been great ever since.

This is one of the better guides on doing the fluid change on a A750 trans, its not a simple task and an independent shop could easily mess it up.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-drain-refill-automatic-transmission.63851/

 

[jfry008]

I have an 05 V8 with 167.xxx miles on it. bought it with 160k about 2 months or so ago. Previous owner had done a transmission flush just prior to my buying it. It was done at an independent shop in Maine. The receipt for this service lists Toyota W" fluid. Im not sure if this is the correct fluid for the transmission or not It drove perfectly fine for the last 7.5k miles, but lately, I feel like Im noticing some odd behavior.

If I'm in traffic at any speed, or in any sort of circumstance that requires abrupt on/off throttle situations, theres a bit of a thump when I get back on the gas if I do so with any sort of urgency. If I ease back onto the power I don't feel this at all. Is it normal for the rpms to sort of drop to idle when cruising on the highway or is the torque converter supposed to stay locked like i remember my 2010 tacoma doing while on the highway? It happens if I have the shifter in 4 or 5. Torque converter doesn't seem to stay locked. This has kinda been present all along but Im noticing it a little more lately...Or maybe I'm just being paranoid
Theres no check engine light present and Ive not seen it since I bought the truck.

Could this be a worn out motor mount or transmission mount? Do those go bad on these truck?

The other thing I've noticed is that its been having some rough shifts between 4 and 5, and occasionally 3-4 usually when its downshifting under power, like when you're causing on the highway at 65 and you punch it making it drop a couple gears, theres a bit of hesitation, then the lower gears engage with a bit of a thump. Not always but enough of the time for me to have developed a bit of concern. Its usually the 5-4 shift thats wonky, then the 4-3 is good.

If I manually downshift under power, I get the same sort of weird harsh shifts, more so when under light throttle as opposed to heavy throttle which seems to generate a smoother transition, though they almost always seem a little off... Again, not all the time, but enough to make me wonder..

When accelerating from a stop quickly, there seems to be no hesitation or weird shifts, they only seem to show up with downshifting.

After some digging around on the interwebs, I discovered the Toyota service records website which I joined. After wading through a very extensive and thorough service history, I found a receipt from just before I bought it listing a transmission shift solenoid code but no reference to what the exact code was as well as a secondary air injection code, again with no actual code listed. The dealer was not able to provide me details on what the actual codes were due to them changing their computer systems 6 months ago...figures, right :/

Now I know why they did a transmission flush, but what I don't know is if I have any grounds for actual concern or if these are just normal behavior for this platform. Has anyone experienced anything similar?

Any help would be GREATLY appreciated...

I would check the transmission fluid level.
Procedure to check the level is here: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/195074-atf-exchange-using-cooling-line.html

Also, you be experiencing some driveline clunk from the known driveshaft slip joint problem.
discussed here: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/73132-driveline-clunk.html

 

[Door Ding]

Thanks for the replies, guys. I did address the driveline clunk issue when I first got the truck, however it is possible that i didn't add enough grease to the slip yoke and I am still feeling a bit of that when on and off the gas. I was afraid to add too much grease and cause a problem there. Ill try adding some more grease to the slip yoke tomorrow, and see if that helps at all.

I was planning to have Toyota do the fluid drain and fill as I feel like they would know best how to do the job given the finicky nature of these transmissions. Is this a bad idea? Im definitely mechanically inclined, and have all the tools to do it, but I live in a place where I can't make a mess in the driveway if I screw something up while doing it...

 

[GoPats]

I had Toyota check everything on mine. Here is what they wrote:

INSPECT AND REPORT
~|~CUSTOMER REQUESTS TO TOP
OFF ALL FLUIDS, INSPECT DIFF
FLUIDS AND INSPECT
TRANSMISSION FLUID
~|~TECHNICIAN INSPECTED FLUIDS,
NEEDED A GASKET CHANGE FOR
CHECKING TRANSFER CASE FLUID
SCAN TOOL TESTED TRANSMISSION
FLUID TESTED OK

I was charged for 3 Drain Plug Gaskets, P/N 12157-10010.

I asked the service guy about the scan tool part, and he said that's how they check the trans fluid. I got the idea that it will say if the level is low. I've been wondering about what they really did or didn't do ever since. Perhaps mr_plow has the right idea...

 

[pliance04]

My 2004 sport v8 is almost experiencing the same issues, and unsure of the issue. Im taking it to a Master tech at my yota dealership. Hope he has good news or helpful news.

 

[Ida4runner]

As said I would check you drive line first

 

[Gatafly]

Make sure your drive shaft (U-joints and slip joints) is greased before you go any further. Dry drive shafts cause thumps during load changes. Easy thing to take care of.

THIS!!

Grease those slip yokes. Pump grease into them until you see the shaft move. If it has not been done in a very long time it could take 40-50 pumps. . . .seriously!

 

[catrains]

have the toyota dealership drop the tranny pan and inspect/clean up the pan/magnets/screen and hope for the best.

 

[snowboardwcu]

mine does very similar things to what you describe, minus the dropping to idle when you hit it. there is hesitation, however.

I recently did the ATF exchange, added shudderfixx too as the rumble prompted me to do the change out. i order a driveshaft and will pick up this week. I've spend a year and a half lubing those zerks; never fixes it completely and comes back within two weeks.

once i get the DS on i'll try to report back to you. i really hate the ride of my 4runner because of this stuff. 2005 V8 150k

 

[radlynx]

I agree, you need a grease to the slip yoke. when the shaft starts to move, it means it's already full and you don't need to add. you will need to remove the fitting after that and let the grease out, go to the rear end or put a ramp on one wheel in the back and let it flex to squeeze the grease out. than you can reinstall back the fitting and you'll be okay.

THIS!!

Grease those slip yokes. Pump grease into them until you see the shaft move. If it has not been done in a very long time it could take 40-50 pumps. . . .seriously!

 

[gbouton]

Definitely do another slip yoke greasing as already recommended. I had mine done twice in the first 3,000 miles since I bought it, and it wasn't until the second time that the "thump" went away.