TRD Exhaust?

Mechanic

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I've heard surprisingly little about the TRD exhaust system for the third generation 4runner on here. And I'm seriously thinking about getting it for my 2000 SR5 in the near future. What little I have heard about it is that it is a good exhaust, but not good value. And I have looked at the TRD site and got almost no info on it there either, just that it costs around 800$ and it may or may not fit the 4runner, just know it will fit the Tacoma.

So, has anyone had any experience with the TRD exhaust? Any thoughts? i do understand it is expensive, but at the same time whatevere I do buy I would like it to be a pre assembled aftermarket kit for my truck rather than a custom built job by a exhaust shop. I've played to much with different exhausts over the years and would like someone else to be accountable for a change. Lol

Oh, i also don't have to worry about emissions.
 
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Everything I've read says it sounds and performs great, but costs a pile. It uses a Borla muffler, so you could always buy your own muffler/resonator/tip and have a shop throw together the same thing for you for way less $$.
 
Yep,you'll end up paying nearly double because the tip has TRD on it plus the perfromance gain with the exhaust is negligible but they sound nice. just buy the muffler and a nice tip and keep your $$$ in your wallet.
 
Well how far foreword does the exhaust go? Is it a cat back system? Or is it a full end to end replacement, complete with high flow cat?
 
really? Well that's a rip off........ Is it at least stainless or somethng? Maybe it's best best to just go and buy a borla universal muffler and some stainless pipe and get a shop to do it cause that's bull crap........

Do the 3rd gens have an issue with removing the cat on them? Do the computers throw a temper tantrum and throw O2 sensor failure codes all the time? Like I said, no emissions so as long as the truck is happy and it's not loud on the highway I'm good to go.
 
really? Well that's a rip off........ Is it at least stainless or somethng? Maybe it's best best to just go and buy a borla universal muffler and some stainless pipe and get a shop to do it cause that's bull crap........

Do the 3rd gens have an issue with removing the cat on them? Do the computers throw a temper tantrum and throw O2 sensor failure codes all the time? Like I said, no emissions so as long as the truck is happy and it's not loud on the highway I'm good to go.

'96+ = OBD2, so yes it will throw codes if you remove the cat.
 
Dangit! Alright so a high flow cat as well I guess then :P I wonder if borla sells them...... Probably, again, thanks for the Info guys. I guess I'll just look into getting a shop to do it for me.
 
Most shops will use cheaper piping...don't believe what they tell you, its about making money for them.

Even if you buy a high quality muffler, 3 -4 years from now you'll be fixing holes in other parts of the system if your in an area with a changing climate OR do any off roading.

BORLA makes a damn good cat-back system thats guaranteed for a long ass time. As the saying goes: "you can pay me now or pay me later".

I'd get the good stuff now and be done with it.
 
Generally, i do my own exhaust systems as i like being able to tune it to my own sound and play with what gives me more power. But I'm going to be driving this truck until it completely dies on me. I'm hopping for 500,000 miles out of the sucker. That's why when i do the exhaust, i want it to be good. Hence why i was looking at the TRD exhaust. And preferably stainless without mandrel bends. I'd also do the whole system from manifold to tip. High flow cat and all. But unless I read your post wrong, just weld it up myself?
 
Generally, i do my own exhaust systems as i like being able to tune it to my own sound and play with what gives me more power. But I'm going to be driving this truck until it completely dies on me. I'm hopping for 500,000 miles out of the sucker. That's why when i do the exhaust, i want it to be good. Hence why i was looking at the TRD exhaust. And preferably stainless without mandrel bends. I'd also do the whole system from manifold to tip. High flow cat and all. But unless I read your post wrong, just weld it up myself?

Why would you want it WITHOUT mandrel bends?
 
Why do the entire system? rather than just a cat-back system? HP gains will be slight at best, nothing you'll feel seat of the pants style.
 
Aren't mandrel bends when they bend the pipe with "kinks" in it? Or am I using incorrect terminology? Oppose lol

It's not so much the HP i'd lime more millage and sound I'm going for. My truck sounds to much like a mini van for my taste right now.

And the other reason for manifold back is because I'm hopping for this to last me for a very long time, as in never have to do it again for the life of the truck, not until I sell it, but the life of the truck. Until the thing is so worn out and with so many k's on it it's barely worth scrap. Then I turn it into a rig truck until something expensive breaks.
 
Aren't mandrel bends when they bend the pipe with "kinks" in it? Or am I using incorrect terminology? Oppose lol

It's not so much the HP i'd lime more millage and sound I'm going for. My truck sounds to much like a mini van for my taste right now.

And the other reason for manifold back is because I'm hopping for this to last me for a very long time, as in never have to do it again for the life of the truck, not until I sell it, but the life of the truck. Until the thing is so worn out and with so many k's on it it's barely worth scrap. Then I turn it into a rig truck until something expensive breaks.

99% of the time, most issues with exhaust systems happen "behind" the cat. I have a '90 Volvo with about 275,000 miles on it, I FINALLY had to replace the cat last fall. Unless your converter is bad I wouldn't worry about changing it out.

Do the cat-back BORLA system & I think you'll be very, very pleased. I did my '98 Limited back in '04, best $600 I've spent.
 
Aren't mandrel bends when they bend the pipe with "kinks" in it? Or am I using incorrect terminology? Oppose lol
QUOTE]

Mandrel bends are where the bend is the same diameter through the bend as the rest of the pipe is in the straight sections, it's smooth (no ripples/kinks), flows better, and costs more.
 
Mandrel bends are where the bend is the same diameter through the bend as the rest of the pipe is in the straight sections, it's smooth (no ripples/kinks), flows better, and costs more.

ohh, ok. So i WANT mandrel bends then. Lol what's it called when they kink the pipe when bending it then?
 
ohh, ok. So i WANT mandrel bends then. Lol what's it called when they kink the pipe when bending it then?

Mandrel (best), compression (better, still lose diameter but the bend is smooth), and crush/crimp (worst, lose diameter AND have ripples in the bend diamter).
 
There's not enough forceful exhaust flow from the stock 3.4 that you'd notice any difference between mandrel or crush bent piping and it would yield no diff on a dyno either so I personally wouldn't spend the difference.

You can find a shop that does use good quality steel if you do your research,yes it might cost a little more but it'll be worth it and still cheaper than the TRD part.
 

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