TRD Pro on 35?

T4Duran

New member
Ok guys so I have a TRD Pro still stock and i have a set of brand new 35" tires for it. Any suggestions on a lift and how I can make this work.
 
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The lift is totally up to you (most likely a full setup not a level kit) but you will need to pull the fender liner forward and do a body mount chop cus you will rub for sure. mine are about 33" and i rubbed
 
sawzall.jpg~original
 
I have a few suggestions, but you might not like them...

SAS - IMO I'd find a pair of 80 series axles and build a custom housing that re-uses the rear e-locker up front or an 80 series reverse cut front (the diff offset is on the wrong side, so you'll have to make a custom front axle or just buy one from one of the various builders, then graft the 80 series rear diff into the factory axle for a centered 9.5" land cruiser rear end - way stronger. Do a 3 link front and a 4 link rear and you're in business. Should be pretty f'n awesome.

Alternative 2 is something I've been pondering for a while now. The fitment issue with 35s is the front body mount. A body mount chop will get you up to 34s, but I don't think 35s are going to work without major interference. The best solution short of a SAS setup would be to have a custom shop do a major re-work of that body mount - as in cut the whole mount off the frame, build a new structure on the bottom of the body about 2-3" back of the original one, then weld in a new body mount to the frame rail. That "should" get you enough clearance for 35s with a 3" lift.

A third option would be to move the front differential and steering assembly an inch or two forward. I think this is a plausible re-locate as there is plenty of room in the pass through cutouts where the axles pass from the diff and I believe there is room for the steering rack to move forward as well. You'll need to cut off and re-locate the suspension mounting tabs for at least the lower a-arm or have a custom lower a-arm made. I think the upper can actually stay in the stock location with a custom UCA, but ideally you'd move it forward as well. I also think the stock strut mount could be re-used or be moved.

Option 4 would I guess be a 6" mall cruiser lift. I'm not a big fan, but if you just want the "look" - that's by far the cheapest option.

In the end, I'm not sure there's any "easy" way to get to a true 35" tire and be useable offroad without major modification.

Good luck!
 
Option #5: Portal Axles

Only the best! The front diff is on the correct side too. There's even a set of 404's on ebay for $1500. Someone needs to make this happen!

If I ever get around to re-building my fj40 I'd like to go with mog portals although I'd like to run 416 or newer axles. When you run the numbers for a full setup including wheels and tires of anything over 42" - it's pretty darn hard to beat portals. Mostly because you're getting axles for $1500 ish, tires for $100 ea. due to how cheap XZL and XML tires are, and they already come with crazy low gearing and lockers.

What could be a very interesting project with LOTS of custom fab work would be an IFS portal conversion ala HMMWV. It would offer about just the right lift for 35-37's. Combine with similar rear lift and it could legitimately work. Plus it cuts the torque on the front diff in half, so you could actually get away with keeping almost all stock drivetrain up front.
 
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Why do people call the drop bracket lifts mall crawlers???

Thats discrediting a few members on here that Wheel the living daylights out of their drop bracket lift.

There's a 4th gen with a drop bracket lift w/ 40'S on and wheels it hard here in NorCal. Then there's [MENTION=101664]ma_mu_[/MENTION] who's a member in Japan who wheels his hard too.

But to answer the original posters question.

A buddy of my Clint is running 35's but he had to cut alot of his front bumper, took off the fender liner, 1" Body Lift, pinch weld mod, 3" lift, and bmc... It can be don't just need alot of cutting...
 
Why do people call the drop bracket lifts mall crawlers???

Thats discrediting a few members on here that Wheel the living daylights out of their drop bracket lift.

There's a 4th gen with a drop bracket lift w/ 40'S on and wheels it hard here in NorCal. Then there's [MENTION=101664]ma_mu_[/MENTION] who's a member in Japan who wheels his hard too.

But to answer the original posters question.

A buddy of my Clint is running 35's but he had to cut alot of his front bumper, took off the fender liner, 1" Body Lift, pinch weld mod, 3" lift, and bmc... It can be don't just need alot of cutting...

Because the ifs cannot handle serious offroading with tires large enough to need a 6" drop bracket lift. Ergo - if you're lifting 6" and keeping IFS, you're not going off road much. You're probably going to the mall.

Our definitions of "wheeling it hard" are very different if it's being done on a 4th gen with 40's. I break land cruiser solid axles with 39's on a 3500lb fj40 when I go on harder offroad trails. The rear 5th gen axle isn't up to the task of harder trails with big tires. It might last for a while, but probably a durable solution. The IFS isn't even close. 5th gen IFS CVs wouldn't last through the first obstacle. It might as well be 2wd. To give you an idea of how much bigger land cruiser running gear is, here's a side by side of diff gears:
IMG_3907.jpg~original


There's nothing wrong with show trucks. If that's your thing, I say go for it. It's just not the same thing as an off road truck.
 
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Ok guys so I have a TRD Pro still stock and i have a set of brand new 35" tires for it. Any suggestions on a lift and how I can make this work.

Seems it's going to take lots of work and $$$....
Maybe return the tires, decide what lift and how high, then buy the tires that will work without major fab and $$$!


just sayin'
 
If it were easy, a lot of us would've done it already. It mostly keeps coming back to that fackin' body mount! Of course, if fitting 35s was easy, we'd be having the same talk about 37s right now. I'd recommend just doing a proper lift with 33s for now and give the aftermarket/ingenious individuals about 5 years to catch up with developing a proper (non-IFS drop) kit to fit 35s
 
35's
 

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Seems it's going to take lots of work and $$$....
Maybe return the tires, decide what lift and how high, then buy the tires that will work without major fab and $$$!


just sayin'

Man I think I agree with ya! I'm also looking at some 33" so I will be selling my factory TRD wheels and tires too for those of you who want a spare.
 

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