trd pro skid plate install

[yardsale]

Agree with the above. I removed the plastic splash guard though, and tossed it. Directions say you don’t need it.

Edited to add two things. First, I think it is a good idea to chase the threads and use the longer bolts. The skid is heavy and the stock rear bolts only thread in 3/8 of an inch or so. Not enough IMO. Also, I didn’t use anti-sieze. I think that would effect the torque reading. You can strip threads with that stuff.

 

[TinyDancer]

Lock-Tight?

TRD skid plate just arrived, I'm super psyched to install it this weekend - this thread has been amazing, truly great info and a BIG confidence boost.

I'm a super newb on this stuff - please bear with me - do I need to use lock-tight on the bolts when I install them?

2018 SR5, obviously no KDSS, will be ditching the plastic splash shield b/c that's what the directions say.

 

[CG4RUNNER909]

TRD skid plate just arrived, I'm super psyched to install it this weekend - this thread has been amazing, truly great info and a BIG confidence boost.

I'm a super newb on this stuff - please bear with me - do I need to use lock-tight on the bolts when I install them?

2018 SR5, obviously no KDSS, will be ditching the plastic splash shield b/c that's what the directions say.

You can use anti seize on the bolts when you install.....asl you can send me the plastic shield if you I want I’ll ill pay for shipping

 

[yardsale]

TRD skid plate just arrived, I'm super psyched to install it this weekend - this thread has been amazing, truly great info and a BIG confidence boost.

I'm a super newb on this stuff - please bear with me - do I need to use lock-tight on the bolts when I install them?

2018 SR5, obviously no KDSS, will be ditching the plastic splash shield b/c that's what the directions say.

No Loctite and no anti-sieze.

Chase the threads with the correct tap per this thread. Make really sure when you start the tap it is straight. It will grab the threads just like you are turning in a bolt. Then slowly turn it in one turn, back it off a half turn, and continue doing this until the tap bottoms out in the front two holes, and goes all the way up and out on the rear two holes. This is a must IMO. Then take a can of brake cleaner to the thread holes and clean out the cutting oil.

Torque values are based on dry threads. If you put oil or anti-sieze on threads and then torque it, its going to be way tighter than what it is supposed to be. This can lead to pulled threads or snapped bolts.

Also, another thing I learned is that the skid is heavy. When I put mine on I used the shorter rear bolts that came with the original skid and put them in the rear holes of the new skid first, and hand tightened them to hold the skid in place. Then I got the front two bolts started. Once I got the front two bolts in most of the way I removed the short rear bolts one at a time and replaced them with the longer TRD Pro rear bolts. Then I torqued them all. The front ones took a bunch of turns to snug up. This is because when you tighten the bolts you are pushing the spacer that comes on the new skid into the hole on the frame member (the one you took the bolts out of.)

This is a really easy job I would not spend a moment of your time worrying about it.

 

[TinyDancer]

Dead on fellas, thanks! Just installed, took about 30 minutes, pretty easy stuff. Great pics and step by step by [MENTION=223955]Skinnyfatelvis[/MENTION], great advice from [MENTION=164426]CG4RUNNER909[/MENTION] and [MENTION=153484]yardsale[/MENTION] - truly appreciate the help.

Easy job and now I own a torque wrench and some sketchy plastic ramps....

 

[Nick B]

Why doesn’t this skid fit models with KDSS ?

 

[Xhado]

Why doesn’t this skid fit models with KDSS ?

No.

You'll need to modify the sides in order for it to work with KDSS.

 

[Joelmaloney42]

Agree with the above. I removed the plastic splash guard though, and tossed it. Directions say you don’t need it.

Edited to add two things. First, I think it is a good idea to chase the threads and use the longer bolts. The skid is heavy and the stock rear bolts only thread in 3/8 of an inch or so. Not enough IMO. Also, I didn’t use anti-sieze. I think that would effect the torque reading. You can strip threads with that stuff.

Am I the only one who didnt have to chase the threads when doing this install? I have a 2018 SR5 and I used the 4 bolts provided without issue.

 

[The_Green_Wang]

Why doesn’t this skid fit models with KDSS ?

No.

You'll need to modify the sides in order for it to work with KDSS.

My TRD skid is modified for KDSS but i no have KDSS. Trade? Lol (bought from a previous user)

The skid sides have to be cut off inorder to work with KDSS.

I also reused the plastic piece upfront. The radiator is all open there so i just cut to fit the hole and reattached.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[Theomoji]

Hey I had the same issue today!

Just got a TRD pro skid plate for my 17 TRD off road, no KDSS. I had my Toyota Dealers quick lube do the install. Everything went well in the install except the two rear bolts were too long? They ended up using the stock bolts which seem to be fine. Anyone have a similar issue or know why the bolts sent with the new skid plate were too long? We were all scratching our heads.

2014 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Premium
I used two of the screws that we had to take off in the back of the skid plate. It worked out.