Trekers Build thread

I

Illestreker

New member
Joined this forum a few years back when I purchased my first Toyota a 2000 4Runner 4x4 with rear locker and 32" duratracs. Everything was original and stock including suspension. Installed a trd supercharger and 2.1 pulley. Drove it for a year and half and wheeled it a few times. Did lots of preventative maintenance and ended up selling it with 180k.


I decided if I was going to build and dump a bunch of money into a vehicle I wanted something a little more refined, more powerful, and a little more room. So I searched for a 4th gen.

After a few months of searching I found a mint 2005 V8 limited with 130k. It was a one owner from SoCal with lots of Toyota service records and was in exceptional shape to I decided it was right for me.

The plan for it is a daily driver with moderate wheeling and expedition adventures here in Colorado. So I purchased icon ext travel coilovers, icon tubular UCA's, superflex medium rear springs, and icon 2.5 remote resi shocks with the cdc adjust. Also toytec ext brake lines and bumpstops as well as a rear 1/4 spacer to fix the drivers side lean.

Parts collected on my bench ready to go in.


 
Last edited:
Register to hide this ad
Got all the suspension installed and decided to build some cheap extended rear end links. Soon I'll replace them with a nicer pair of disconnects made by [MENTION=98153]MStudt[/MENTION]
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    136 KB · Views: 253
Last edited:
With everything installed and ready to go I had to test out the new suspension so I did a little camping and wheeling over websters pass. I had some gear loaded up, bike rack and 2 bikes so I put the rear shocks on setting 3 from 1-9 and could instantly feel the difference. No weight and street driving I keep it on the soft setting which is basically 1 out of 9.

The treker did awesome even with the 265/65/17 stock highway tires! Just looked goofy!!



 
Last edited:
Ordered up some SCS SR8 wheels in gunmetal and 285/70/17 duratracts. Got them installed and they look incredible IMO. Loving the new look of my truck!




Its now slightly higher in the front, making it a little more level with about 1.5" rake in the rear.
 
Last edited:
I moved the fender liners forward and did some trimming as well as cranked up the coilovers slightly. No rubbing except slightly on the body mount. Although I haven't flexed it out either. I need to play with it and possibly do more with the liners once I get it flexing.

The icon coilovers come pre set at 2.5" lift and I got about 3.25" lift probably due to sagging original suspension. I cranked the coilovers up 1/2" which is 2 full turns on the collar. Question is, anyone with coilovers specifically icons does adjusting them that little affect the ride? It seems a little stiffer and harsher but that could be the new tires not necessarily the small adjustment to the coilovers?

Got it aligned and was surprised/disappointed with how little was done. Everything was in spec except for the toe. So all they touched was the toe even though I asked them to add a little more caster. Max caster is 4* I have 3* driver and 3.4* passenger side. Will getting just slightly closer to 4 make any difference?

How do my CV joints look?
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    134.2 KB · Views: 249
Last edited:
Illestreker said:
Got all the suspension installed and decided to build some cheap extended rear end links. Soon I'll replace them with a nicer pair of disconnects made by [MENTION=98153]MStudt[/MENTION]
Click to expand...

Ditch the lower bushings on those! It'll do more harm than good the way you currently have it. So many people build them that way, and that's not a good way to build them. I'd either remove the bushings on the lower end of the link, or remove them from the eye-bolt.
 
MStudt said:
Ditch the lower bushings on those! It'll do more harm than good the way you currently have it. So many people build them that way, and that's not a good way to build them. I'd either remove the bushings on the lower end of the link, or remove them from the eye-bolt.
Click to expand...

Then how would you attach it and have it not moving all around without the bushings? The bushings keep it in place, I can't picture how else to do it?
 
Illestreker said:
Then how would you attach it and have it not moving all around without the bushings? The bushings keep it in place, I can't picture how else to do it?
Click to expand...

If you take the bushings off of the eye-bolt it'll mount the exact same way. You'll just need to space it out. Instead of using the bushings as spacers you'll use an extra nut. You're going to get a ton of unwanted/needed movement with those bushings.
 
MStudt said:
If you take the bushings off of the eye-bolt it'll mount the exact same way. You'll just need to space it out. Instead of using the bushings as spacers you'll use an extra nut. You're going to get a ton of unwanted/needed movement with those bushings.
Click to expand...

I see. I'll fix that.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

Total: 354 (members: 2, guests: 352)

Forum statistics

Threads
278,307
Messages
3,554,054
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Share this page

Trending content

Back
Top