Tried to engage AWD in snow...indicator still blinking...

[TheDurk]

Any idea how difficult the actuator is to swap?

Bench test your actuator before you swap it. As 99SC said, it is frequently the position switches on the TC. (or the VSV system on those so equipped) that are not sending the signal on to the actuator from the TC.. Switch is a much cheaper fix. Just because LINY had a bum actuator, doesn't guarantee that you do.

Better yet, verify that the electric actuator is getting the correct signal. For the electric actuator, use the procedure in the FSM to nail down the fault:

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/02toyrm/02toypdf/02rmsour/2002/024runne/trvf3am/ot24ssy/insp.pdf

For vacuum actuated, see 99SC's thread--pretty sure I am in there. Easy way is to just swap the hoses from the front diff. If that locks the front, then actuator is good, assuming there is good vacuum available.

 

[puppetz007]

That is my thread over there on YotaTech. I'd almost bet money that it is probably one of the transfer switches causing it to partially lockup into 4wd mode.

Take the one sensor/switch out of the front diff and test it. If it tests fine with no failures with a few tests, then move on to the transfer case and test each one in the same manner.

If you have one sensor that doesn't give you a continutity beep for an Ohms check each and every time, then you might be able to clean it or just replace it with a new one.

I've combed through your thread over on YotaTech it's got a lot of good info, but unfortunately doesn't help much since I don't have the vacuum actuator on the front diff. Was able to swap the sensors on the transfer case though after reading.

from what I was told by a few people, disco the 4 bottom LBJ bolts, pull the axle, and there are 4 bolts holding the actuator onto the front diff..

Ill let you know, im probably pulling mine tomorrow afternoon. (err this afternoon)

Ok sounds good. Hopefully it isn't too difficult.

Bench test your actuator before you swap it. As 99SC said, it is frequently the position switches on the TC. (or the VSV system on those so equipped) that are not sending the signal on to the actuator from the TC.. Switch is a much cheaper fix. Just because LINY had a bum actuator, doesn't guarantee that you do.

Better yet, verify that the electric actuator is getting the correct signal. For the electric actuator, use the procedure in the FSM to nail down the fault:

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/02toyrm/02toypdf/02rmsour/2002/024runne/trvf3am/ot24ssy/insp.pdf

For vacuum actuated, see 99SC's thread--pretty sure I am in there. Easy way is to just swap the hoses from the front diff. If that locks the front, then actuator is good, assuming there is good vacuum available.

Just want to double check. The FSM you linked is that for the T-case actuator or the front diff. actuator?

 

[TheDurk]

Just want to double check. The FSM you linked is that for the T-case actuator or the front diff. actuator?

Yeah. I was going off the first few lines of the ADD troubleshooting procedure here:http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/02toyrm/02toypdf/02rmsour/2002/024runne/sa/acsy1/insp.pdf

The idea is first to be sure that the TC actuator is fully engaging and sending it's "I'm ready signal" before you attack the front. But I really should have posted this link as well. The point is, actually pulling the ADD actuator is the next to last thing on the list.(#7 of 8). I just don't think you can be sure it IS the problem, until you have gone through the rest. But I admit I am not familiar with these electric systems. I have a j-shift vacuum-actuated 5-speed manual that is a whole lot simpler to troubleshoot.